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I Forge Iron

Show me your anvil stands


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19 hours ago, jlpservicesinc said:

Do you tighten the rods/nuts once the anvil is placed into the recess? 

Nope, no need. I just chisel it to a close fit. I apply a hot oil finish to my iron on the anvil enough and the oil probably helps. But most likely what matters the most is the scale  will quickly will fill any voids.  But the real trick is a close fit.

Also, when setting your anvil into the sand, all you need to do is wiggle and/ or rock your anvil till its level.  By the time you are level, the sand will have your anvil wedged tight. And years later, it's still level 

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2 hours ago, MikeTausig said:

I don’t want any gack on the anvil. 

I put a layer of gack/caulk between my anvil and its stand a couple of years ago, and I love it. I suppose it might be an issue someday if I have to separate the two, but in the meantime it’s solid as a rock — and that’s under the not-insubstantial whacking of the treadle hammer. 

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That’s why I ask. Using caulk is much different than using a straight adhesive. Do you smear it on the entire under-surface, or just a bead? I would think it would need the entire under-surface in order to prevent gapping, which would render the technique moot to me. Cheers. 

Edited by Mod30
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You won't be sorry for using the caulk.  I used 100% silicone caulking and it worked great.  My Trenton went from ringing loudly to a deadened ring at best.  I don't plan on ever seperating the anvil from the stump, but if I have to I'm not at all worried about removing the silicone.  It's not going to be like a head gasket job, I'd just scrape off and remove what I can and put more on to stick it there again.  

Let us know how it turns out.

 

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I’m going to try it both ways. I’ll start by using it without calk. If I feel there is a need, then yes...I’ll calk it. Maybe I’ll shoot a couple 30 sec videos of the comparison, if I go that route. Anybody know if IFI can handle short vid clips, or is it a bad idea in general, since not everybody has high speed interwebs? Thanks for all the ideas and responses. 

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Just because I had some laying around, I decided to try using a roofing shingle under my anvil to see if it would help at all with the noise. It worked surprisingly well, and I've been using it for about a month with it. I've never used silicone under an anvil, so I can't compare the two, but the shingle does work pretty well in my opinion.

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Well I'm clearly not an expert on roofing shingles, so I don't know for sure. I'm fairly sure they're some type of asphalt shingles, and if I tear a corner off one they seem to have some sort of fibrous material inside, which I hope to be fiberglass and not asbestos. If a photo of the packaging would be helpful I can take some.

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I used 100% silicone and was amazed at the difference it made in the sound.  The top of my stand was uneven so I pounded a couple of tico nails horizontally so it wouldnt rock when I set it on the silicone and squish it out. Worked a champ  

see my before and after vids in my kanca anvil post. Added bonus - anvil is one with the stand and rock solid

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  • 4 weeks later...
On 3/23/2019 at 3:32 PM, MikeTausig said:

I’m going to try it both ways...

A wrought iron anvil will ring like a bell and annoy you no end.  Add silicone, liquid nails or similar, and you silence that ringing to a degree that's really amazing.  It's a night and day difference.

I used a just about a whole tube on my Wilkinson anvil and it worked like a treat.  I wonder if there's a minimum that I could have used, but better too much than not enough!   The clean up to get rid of all the stuff that squished out was a pain, but my Wilkinson became almost as quiet as my Fisher.  That's a real boon!

 

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