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Found 7 results

  1. Hello!! i am having a problem with my hydraulic press. After normal, periodic use, I blew out a filter and thought the filter must just be defective. But now the new filter is deforming, and I don’t know what the problem is. I made a YouTube video explaining my system, and the problem more in detail. Any advice anyone could give me would be amazing. Thanks for your help. -joshua
  2. Greetings! I wanted to see if the experts on this forum might catch any red flags that may be causing combustion issues with my forge. I shot a quick video demonstrating the issue. The problem starts 3 mins, 10 secs in: I built this based mostly on the David Hammer Super C Forge and burner design (minus the side access slot). It has been running stable for months, but now after running for around 30 mins, the point of combustion shifts from the interior of the forge, to the end of the flair (about 1 inch inside the refractory). I get less time if I run it hotter. The burner
  3. So like many I'm new at this whole forge making thing- I've made a charcoal forge but its not that great and its a pain to set-up and clean-up so I'm working on a propane forge. I am using the per lite and sodium silicate mixture everyone's talking about but when I tried to heat my forge the smallest amount of heat made the sodium silicate bubble up. The bubbling is white, rocky, and strangely enough kinda looks like perlite (if perlite was a mold). To make sure it was the sodium silicate I put some one a piece of wood and after it was hard I blow-torched it. The same thing happened, white, r
  4. Do you have days when nothing goes right? I thought I would try making a bottle opener from a truck wheel stud. Almost had it drifted to size and it broke out. Hard metal too. Then I had this really nice piece of wrought iron bolt with a nut seized on the end. Figured it would make a unique bottle opener with the nut as a handle. Thought I would try making the hole in the middle of the bolt to avoid the splitting out on the end, as usually happens. So it splits at the side. I don't know why I persist with wrought iron, but I do like the grainy effect and the lustre it has. Fort
  5. I built a forge that I had intended to do some brass smelting with. I finished it two weeks ago and last night I smelted my first chunk of brass. After I was done I noticed four cracks on the outside of the forge (this a brick forge with 4 inch thick fire bricks as the walls and floor of the forge) and the center seam line of the ceiling bricks is cracked. Is this because of the heat of the fire needed to melt brass, or is it something else? The bricks that formed the ceiling suffered no damage other than the cracked mortar it was the exterior walls that cracked. Those wall are about 8 in
  6. A friend of mine found an old beet knife in the rubble of his garage when his family tore it down. It was bent pretty good and so he asked me to straighten it for him. I took out the bend with a torch and a hammer. I was trying to keep the temper but I failed when I let the heat run through the blade. I hardened it today and then I tempered it at 200 F for about 20 minutes. Then I went to sharpen it and that is where I ran into my problems. I barely started putting the edge on when a a sizable piece came off as I ran the stone over the blade( I do all my sharpening by hand). The only thing
  7. So here's my problem: within 2-3 weeks of finishing things like hooks and bottle openers with wax I'm starting to see a light "dust" of rust on various places of the piece. I am fairly new to this whole thing but thought it would take longer to see rust type stuff. I'm not sure if I'm doing something wrong or just placed to much trust in my wax. Here's what I've been doing... forge the thing, cool, wire brush with a wire wheel to a bright finish (no scale or rust left), heat the piece with an oven, propane torch or the coal forge, apply wax (the bees/turpentine/boiled linseed oil), let cool
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