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I Forge Iron

Some days you can't take a trick...


ausfire

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Do you have days when nothing goes right? 

I thought I would try making a bottle opener from a truck wheel stud. Almost had it drifted to size and it broke out. Hard metal too.

Then I had this really nice piece of wrought iron bolt with a nut seized on the end. Figured it would make a unique bottle opener with the nut as a handle. Thought I would try making the hole in the middle of the bolt to avoid the splitting out on the end, as usually happens. So it splits at the side. I don't know why I persist with wrought iron, but I do like the grainy effect and the lustre it has.

Fortunately these did not occur in demo time ... I was just giving it a try before we opened. I feel like giving up on the wrought. Much as I don't like to post pictures of disasters:

split wrought.jpg

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Bolt looks thin. Did you just punch and drift, or did you slit 1st? I've had better luck with thin stuff if I slit and upset 1st, then drift. That way I'm not stretching the hole too large.

 

You might be able to salvage that one possibly if you turn the top into a "loop" like coldironkilz showed just recently in the bottle opener thread.

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I only use the drift to spread it open enough to then work it open on the horn or a small cone. It seems to work better cause when stretching it finds thinnest part and all the force concentrates there which is the opposite of what you really want.

By working it open over a horn or cone you can dictate where you want it to stretch.

 

image.jpeg

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10 hours ago, DSW said:

Bolt looks thin. Did you just punch and drift, or did you slit 1st? I've had better luck with thin stuff if I slit and upset 1st, then drift. That way I'm not stretching the hole too large.

 

You might be able to salvage that one possibly if you turn the top into a "loop" like coldironkilz showed just recently in the bottle opener thread.

DSW: It was a fairly big bolt. A stud from a Mack truck. I probably flattened it a bit thin though. And yes, I just punched and drifted the hole - I do all my openers that way. Perhaps this steel was high tensile or something. 

Could be salvageable if I turned it into a crab claw sort of opener I suppose.

FF: Yes, I use a small cone mandrill after the initial punch and drift. If things go slightly awry, by cooling one side of the opener it's easy to maintain an even loop.

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I reckon you would benefit from trying a slot punch. Stretching a hole with a drift to enlarge it is not going to work all that well, it really needs to be squared up and peined like any other drawing out technique. Starting with a slot will get you closer to the end point with a lot less metal working. It is also possible to keep the original profile by slotting over the bottom half of a swage tool the same shape. slotting from edge to edge on a square bar and opening it out looks pretty cool.

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you dont sound convinced Aus.:) just grind the point off an old chisel and round the corners a little. that will get you started.

if you need some inspiration Mark Aspery has a short video on youtube called Blacksmithing: punching and drifting theory.

it might not stop the wheel stud breaking but I'm confident it will work on the bolt

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9 hours ago, yahoo2 said:

you dont sound convinced Aus.:) just grind the point off an old chisel and round the corners a little. that will get you started.

 

Well, the thing is, I am convinced that a slot punch would be a good thing, but for ordinary run-of-the-mill bottle openers from mild steel my round punches do fine. I have done a great many from rail spikes etc with no problem.

The only hassles occur when I have a moment of madness and think I can do things with wrought iron or high tensile weird metal bolts. I have actually made a slot punch or two, but I got tired of carrying them round and not using them. And maybe I didn't forge them right. Perhaps I'll give them another try, but I'm not that keen to keep wasting time on wrought iron. :)

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Give one a try on mild sometime. Slitting  gives you extra material to work with so you're not drawing what's left just "bending" it out and shaping it. After that you thin as much as you like.

Bending is much easier than drawing out. Of course that's just how I like doing it and I'm pretty lazy. :ph34r:

Frosty The Lucky.

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24 minutes ago, Daswulf said:

Was making a new spring fuller just now and I was texting and forging and........ 

Need a commercial like for texting and driving. 

(Remember kids don't text and forge..... It can wait. )

can always turn it into some punches or chisels..

image.jpg

rivet them together it will work just fine. Either inwards in a heart shape or outwards in an ogee shape will work.

Alan

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37 minutes ago, Alan Evans said:

rivet them together it will work just fine. Either inwards in a heart shape or outwards in an ogee shape will work.

Alan

I appreciate the tip, and I'll keep it in mind, but I was already onto another one. Always learning something new tho. 

 

 

image.jpg

image.jpg

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I had one of those days on Monday. Round to square consistently eluded me - though the dogs dropping "toys" under my feet might have had something to do with it - and I would up mangling the piece of stock beyond all recognition in frustration. Grrrr...

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