Rust on newly waxed metal?!

[Tiefer]

So here's my problem: within 2-3 weeks of finishing things like hooks and bottle openers with wax I'm starting to see a light "dust" of rust on various places of the piece.  I am fairly new to this whole thing but thought it would take longer to see rust type stuff.  I'm not sure if I'm doing something wrong or just placed to much trust in my wax.  Here's what I've been doing... forge the thing, cool, wire brush with a wire wheel to a bright finish (no scale or rust left), heat the piece with an oven, propane torch or the coal forge, apply wax (the bees/turpentine/boiled linseed oil), let cool to warm and apply a second coat.  Seems to be kind of a standard thing but I didn't expect rust after a couple weeks.  Being in Western NC it is humid but am I missing something?  I would appreciate any suggesting and feed back.  I love useing the wax... its classic, has a great look and feel and smells great but am wondering if the rubbed black rustolium is the solution for at least the traditional look?  Thanks  

[Glenn]

Get a large(ish) container of your wax mix and place the metal item into the wax at smoking temperature. Or apply with a rag at smoking temperatures. Wipe off the excess.

[Jim Coke]

Greetings Tie,

 

Try just cleaning your work with a stiff brush ... Not to a bright finish... Some slag adds caricature ..  Heat in the forge and just apply pure bees wax.. This will put a thick coat and later after cooling wipe of excess..  This will yield a dull waxed finish that will resist rust..   Give her a try...

 

Forge on and make beautiful things

Jim

[Frosty]

Try another wax, paraffin is tougher than bees and cools hard where bees wax stays tacky. Jphnson's paste is popular and a good durabe wax. My  preference is Treewax or there's a more contemporary carnuba, Bowling Ally wax. Carnuba sets hard, really hard, both these brand names were used to armor bowling allies being applied maybe 2x a year.

 

I wipe mine on just shy of smoking hot, it liquifies well and soaks into all the nooks and crannies for pretty water proof protection.

 

Be aware though, virtually any finish on iron/steel that isn't nickle&chrome plating requites maintenance, paint, oils, waxes, etc. all require regular upkeep.

 

Frosty The Lucky.

[John McPherson]

Borax in the floor of a gas forge? Dirty coal? Salt in the quench tub? Dirty wire brush/gloves/sweaty hands? Anything that comes in contact with the metal can cause problems later.

 

In the world of arc welding, we sometimes have to resort to multiple cleanings of all parts and tools with chemical strippers to get all the contaminants away.

[Tiefer]

Thanks ya'll I appreciate it! John i think your onto something. As ive looked over the openers ive done 2 to 3 weeks ago a bit closer, there is a bit of pattern where the rust is showing up. A bit of inconsistant cleaning withthe nooks and cranys with a wire wheel that doesnt hit all surfaces evenly with the random greasy paws and sweat makes sense. Any suggestions on metal prep chemicals that could help? Either something like a degreaser of sorts or neutralizing type thing? Thanks folks for some extra clearity here!

[Tiefer]

John, i meant to ask about specific kinds of brands that you would suggest...

[Joel OF]

The beeswax, turps and linseed oil wax doesn't require the metal to be hot to go on, that's the beauty of it. Alas it's not an exterior grade finish and won't stop rust in the long term. Getting a couple weeks of rust protection out of it matches my experinces of testing it outdoors on mild steel.