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Irondragon Forge ClayWorks

2023 Donor
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Everything posted by Irondragon Forge ClayWorks

  1. This one is 110 pounds @.31 cents a pound. All I did was forge a small bick for one of the holes & carve a notch in the stump with my chain saw.
  2. I'm glad you finally received it after all those years. It warms ones heart when someone does a good thing as he did. I'm sure it's in a good home now and ready to go back to work.
  3. Welcome Welding Rod. I always suggest reading this to get the best out of the forum. READ THIS FIRST
  4. Welcome to IFI... I always suggest reading this to get the best out of the forum. READ THIS FIRST I hope you have read about restoring anvils. Specifically about doing no milling, grinding or welding on the hardened face.
  5. A picture of the bottom of the base might shed some light as to the manufacture of it. There were many companies making London pattern anvils here in the U.S. and abroad. I hope you have read about how grinding, milling and welding on the hardened face (looks like someone has already ground some) will remove decades of usefulness from an anvil. How is the rebound & ring?
  6. That was probably a Johnson #122 forge/furnace. They were in many school metal arts (shop) classes.
  7. Welcome to IFI... we won't remember that once leaving this post, hence the suggestion to edit your profile to include location. Also this thread will help you get the best out of the forum. READ THIS FIRST
  8. Like my late FIL (rest his soul) always said "when ya snooze, ya lose".
  9. At ESSA we always had students announce "hot metal" when moving around others and the metal was held high when moving. None of this metal at waist height out in front of you.
  10. When my hot steel hits the floor, I didn't drop it, just checking that gravity is still working.~Me
  11. Sometimes it's better to beg forgiveness than ask permission.
  12. All that anvil needs is hot steel hammered on it. By grinding on the hardened face you will remove decades of useful life.
  13. I think the holes above the mig tip are a big problem. Seems to me the propane would exit there and burn without going through the tip. I've never seen a burner like that and could be wrong. What design burner is it?
  14. Or as I always say "If you can't convince em, confuse em".
  15. It's a real shame about the hammer heads cracking. The first picture is of a very good looking one.
  16. If I remember from the 1045 data sheet about forging it says hold till temperature is uniform (or something like that). Can't post a link to a commercial site. Finished forgings may be air cooled
  17. Welcome to IFI... I always suggest reading this to get the best out of the forum. READ THIS FIRST BTW... your little Fisher is in usable shape, just don't do any milling, welding or grinding on it. Hot steel hammered on it will shine up the face just fine.
  18. You might take a look at this, thanks to ThomasPowers. http://www.marco-borromei.com/fork.html
  19. Welcome to IFI... I always suggest reading this to get the best out of the forum. READ THIS FIRST Google Johnson bench furnace and there it is first hit. From the web site.
  20. That's why it's important to read the thread JHCC linked. It will help you get the best out of the forum. If you will edit your profile to show your location, we won't have to ask you for it when answers depend upon it.
  21. Yep, I took a $1.00 drill hammer and forged & ground down one end into my first straight pein. My second one was forged from a tire changers hammer(the kind with a rubber pad on one end).
  22. That really looks interesting. I priced a pump for my log splitter at Surplus Center and they ran about $150-250 depending on the GPM for the pumps and a double acting selector valve was $120. Then of course you would need a motor & hoses, reservoir tank and make an anvil & dies.
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