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I Forge Iron

Irondragon Forge ClayWorks

2023 Donor
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Everything posted by Irondragon Forge ClayWorks

  1. I agree with Frosty, make your own nails from known steel.
  2. Yes it is, however I have a bottle of Glenfiddich 1972 for special occasions, which this qualifies. I'll have a dram this evening in his honor.
  3. Welcome to IFI... If you haven't read this, I suggest it to get the best out of the forum. READ THIS FIRST
  4. That is a good looking Fusil no doubt. I have resurrected several old barrels using this same method. My last was an original German 56 caliber Jaeger that I restored. I did a final polish by fire lapping the bore, after about 20 rounds most of the pitting was gone. https://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/threads/jaeger-project-rifle.93808/
  5. Welcome to IFI... I suggest reading this thread to get the best out of the forum. READ THIS FIRST some answers depend upon your location, hence the suggestion to edit your profile to show location.
  6. Google wayne coe artist blacksmith. He will help you and has all the supplies and advice on building a forge.
  7. In that case, I would say you have the wrong cat litter.
  8. It helps to know what you are looking for (most of the time).
  9. Your plans look good to me, although I wouldn't waste the money on ITC 100. Instead I would use Plistix or Metrikote which work better and a whole lot less expensive. Wayne Coe (member here) can supply small amounts of both.
  10. Yep, that's the screw box. Cleaning it and the screw is normal maintenance. I only consider taking it apart when the mount, spring and movable jaw/ leg are removed. I see no need to do that with your vise. It looks to be in very good condition BTW.
  11. One dosen't need to "take it apart" to clean the screw & screw box. Just back the screw out and use a brush with solvent like kerosene then oil it up.
  12. Gotta love it, learn something new just about every day. https://www.google.com/search?q=backing+out+punches&client=firefox-b-1-d&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwi6o52WmdXgAhWG4FQKHaGGB9sQ_AUIDygC&biw=1138&bih=511
  13. In that photo, I can make out the cast in FISHER although it is rusted badly.
  14. Welcome to IFI I always suggest reading this to get the best out of the forum. READ THIS FIRST Your A&H looks to be in very good shape, to see the serial number you can chip away the concrete covering it at the front foot under the horn.
  15. I also see 1916 on the front foot. A wire wheel on an angle grinder should clean the rust pretty well, just no grinding, milling or welding on the hardened face. Hammering hot steel will shine it up just fine.
  16. Ya done good and what a great tribute to your grandfather, I bet he is looking down and smiling. The only thing left to do is have a dram in his honor.
  17. I guess not because I have never heard of that before now. Love it when I learn something new here.
  18. Sorry to hear about your grandfather. Yep Iron City. I wouldn't do anything to it except a light brushing with BLO to preserve the patina and oil the screw then put it to work again.
  19. I believe the anvil pictured is a Fisher. Are you trying to sell the anvils? If so you need to read this.https://www.iforgeiron.com/topic/160-read-this-before-posting-the-rules-for-tailgating/
  20. In that case yes, it is a good stand alone knife steel. I've made several filet knives for friends from it and they love the edge holding capabilities of them. A lot of saw mill bandsaw blades are made from it. It is a carbon steel with nickle added.
  21. We still have no idea where in the world you are located. If you were near me I have extra kaowool you could have.
  22. Both are top tools, first is a hot cut with edge damage and the second one is a fuller.
  23. What is their return policy? I just read the reviews and would try and return it for a refund.
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