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Found 6 results

  1. Hey Forum, I think I forged about 12-15 hammers from 1045 yet and in the last months I have massive problems with them cracking during the quench. Picture 1-3 is the first hammer that cracked during the quench. I heard 3 times the horrific "ping" sound and here you go with a big crack right through the eye. Picture 4-5 is a rounding hammer that showed the same kind of crack as the first hammer. I heared no sound of cracking. I cracked it completely open to examine the grain and the crack itself. After this hammer cracked I assumed that I forged the steel too cold when drifting the eye. So I forged the next little 0.9 kg hammer a lot hotter. I will heat treat it the next week I think. What really confused me is the piece of steel in the last picture. I finished my guillotine tool today and tested it on this piece. Just a couple of heats and some hard hits with the hammer. After I finished I put the piece aside and shut down the forge. When I came back it wasnt red hot anymore but still hot (black heat). So I threw it in the water bucket to cool it down. After I looked at it I saw this big crack right through the fuller grove. Iam at a point now where I dont know what to do next. Nearly every piece of 1045 cracks (Iam glad the guillotine dies did not). I forge everything by hand so its really frustrating to see the hard work going to pieces in the quench. Any tips/suggestions? Those hammers are the first ones after changing from solid fuel to a gas forge. Can there be any connection to this? Iam thankful for every hint. Thanks Tim
  2. It is my first hardy, actually my first tool. I have started with a 1" round bar 40" long of 1045. I have tapered it down to 3/4" to fit my anvil and it slides in to about 1.5 ". The rod is too tall to upset on my anvil so I need to cut a piece off. Q1. how much do I need above the shank? 3-4 inches or more?
  3. Hi, I’m brand new to blacksmithing. Here’s my first attempt at a hammer. Prior to making this hammer I only had about 3 hours at the anvil to be honest, this was a very challenging, albeit great learning experience. I’m really happy with how the peen came out, but the face bows outward a little on the right side and I’m not happy it’s not more square. I’m wanting to take a second whack (pun intented) at it but had a quick question first. I can only get 3 hours at a time in the gorge and with hand punching this I don’t believe I can finish in a single session. Would I be okay to normalize and quench during one week and then grind/heat treat a week or two later? Just want to make sure that 1045 can be heat treated that far after quenching, I’ve read some steels only allow for a short window between these. I did a google search with “iforgeiron” in it but haven’t found an answer, sorry if I’ve missed the thread.
  4. I have access to some 1045. 38mm od and about 5 or 6mm thick. Have some solid stock about .865 dia and about 12-14 inches long. Will be using those to walk my son through intro knife making. Only use I can think of for the tubes is to flatten into an oval and use to buffer the heat of the forge for some nice easy soak time without worrying about oxidation. Seems like a bit of a waste for decent hardenable steel. Any other ideas for the tubing? Both shown in the picture.
  5. Hi gents, I am going to forge a couple of Braces to use at our summer camp in the pioneering program and was wondering if regular 1/2" diameter cold rolled 1018 would be strong enough to resist the deflection of applied force while drilling medium sized holes in beams say... 1 1/4" holes in green timber. This pic is what I am after making. Bill
  6. If you are cheap like me, go to an auto salvage yard. here is your guide. (not great quality) The one somewhere on this site is just a wall of text. maybe i'll compile it into excel or something.