Jump to content
I Forge Iron

Irondragon Forge ClayWorks

2023 Donor
  • Posts

    11,846
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Irondragon Forge ClayWorks

  1. If you post pictures of your forge and burner, I'm sure it will help in getting it right. Beside that you may have guessed we love pictures. Just make sure the pictures are G rated.
  2. Great hammer & tong rack. Mine is a Hodgepodge of Army surplus M16 racks and wall hooks and buckets that still don't hold all of the hammers & tongs. I'm jealous.
  3. Welcome to IFI. If you edit your profile to show your location, you never know if there are other members near you that can help. I always suggest reading this to get the best out of the forum. READ THIS FIRST
  4. Ya, OK probably the best thing to do. Save the thin reign as it is part of your first pair. I have a bucket with items like that dating back several decades and it's fun to look at them every once in a while to remind me of my progress. Your first pair are hands down better than my first ones.
  5. Welcome to IFI stressless, Have you read this yet? It will help you get the best out of the forum. READ THIS FIRST
  6. What a treasure to find. Wonder about W.T. Burgess too, possibly the lead riveter or blacksmith.
  7. Why not just draw the thicker reign to match the thinner one?
  8. Is this a typo? ITC 100 HT should be a thin coating.
  9. I thought the same thing. Most Fisher's I have seen & used have about twice the step. If the price was right, it will make a good starter anvil though. As to what it's worth, to me around $200 U.S. would be tops, if I didn't have a working anvil.
  10. Ike Doss showed me how to do that with an anvil hot cut. Balance it, hit to make a mark, heat it up and cut it.
  11. If you didn't find the answer about KaoWool in Forges 101, that's all you really need. However it will degrade rapidly and doesn't resist the bumps & bruises that will happen. Also welding flux will melt it like water on cotton candy. That is why castable refractory like Satanite or Kast-o-lite is recommended, just makes for a sturdier forge. Also a coating of Plistix or Metricoat will make it more efficient and hotter.
  12. I stopped at a local "antique"(junk) shop. He had 3 Vulcan anvils all under 100# all with face plate damage to varying degrees. He was firm at $450 each. All I could do is laugh and leave.
  13. Welcome to IFI Austin... Have you read this yet? It will help you get the best out of the forum and like Frosty said, we won't remember your location once leaving this post. Hence the suggestion to edit your profile to show it. READ THIS FIRST Btw I don't think the Frosty T burner is harder to get right if his instructions are followed to the letter without substituting anything.
  14. Welcome to IFI... I always suggest reading this to get the best out of the forum. READ THIS FIRST
  15. There is a lot of information on how to get the best out of the forum, I always suggest reading it. READ THIS FIRST
  16. Along with it looks good, how did it do in the ring & rebound test? If you don't mind how much per pound did it cost.
  17. I agree with setlab that a 50 pound hammer will be more than enough for most work. My 30 pound Star hammer has moved any steel I've put in it for the past 18 years. Anytime you start modifying plans things usually go south in a hurry.
  18. I'm pretty sure it's the same steel as grader blades, which is AR (abrasion resistant) steel. I have a lot of it and it's hard to forge or cut.
  19. There is the chance some trash got into the line while changing it out. Might check the orifice for something blocking it.
  20. Welcome to IFI... When you get around to building a coal forge with a hand crank blower, just remember like a Harley if the blower isn't leaking oil, it's out of it.
  21. Ignorance is not stupidity unless you Try to remain ignorant. ~Daswulf
  22. Actually I think your thin wall tubing will be fine. I made mine from thin wall with some bracing and it has been good to go.
×
×
  • Create New...