Cast and Forge

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    Saxony, Germany

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  1. Hey guys, I am looking forward to buy a 16 kg airhammer, similar to the "Anyang 33". One big questionmark is the foundation of such a small hammer. I've read that the weight of the foundation should be around 50 x the hammerweight. So this would be 800 kg. Is this formula ok? I would pour the foundation with concrete with steel inside. I am working in the garden with neighbours all around the shop. I am a bit concerned about vibrations from the hammer. Is it adequat to isolate the concrete block with some rubber mats from the rest of the ground or should there be any other steps taken to avoid vibrations to be transferred into the ground? Tim
  2. Alright guys, I successfully hardened 2 hammers I forged again. I followed the charts for material thicknes and heating time that I found and it worked just fine. I assume it was a thing of getting used to the different heating rate in my gas forge. The picture shows a hammer I made for my striker, He was in need of a good hammer at work for setting up machines Thanks again for your support!
  3. Actually Iam here to to get my mistakes pointed out so Iam not upset at all. Frosty the Lucky I actually found a formula that says for a unalloyed steel the soaktime should be 5 minutes for every 10 mm diameter/width and 10 minutes if alloyed. Thank you Irondragon Forge & Clay. It was intended as a hammer for my striker. "@" tagging removed.
  4. So I see what I messed up on the small part now. I hope the hammers will stop cracking if I get the soak time and heat management right. I guess all I can do is to forge more hammers and keep trying. Being on that learning curve is nice but also kinda depressing sometimes. Iam glad I singed up to this community.
  5. Thank you Frosty. That totally makes sense with the contact and radiation heating. Should have known that. So I will look for those charts and adjust my heating time. All hammer heads were allowed to cool down in the shut down forge after I finished forging. But no normalisation cycles between several heats or something. The cracks in the test piece for the guillotine still confuse me. Its a piece of 25 x 30 mm and cooled down in air for like 10 minutes before i dropped it in water.
  6. So gas heats slower? Is there a recommended time to let a piece of 45 x 45 x 100 mm soak in a proper working gas forge?
  7. Thanks Steve. Thats something I did not think about yet. I definitely keep that in mind.
  8. Hey Forum, I think I forged about 12-15 hammers from 1045 yet and in the last months I have massive problems with them cracking during the quench. Picture 1-3 is the first hammer that cracked during the quench. I heard 3 times the horrific "ping" sound and here you go with a big crack right through the eye. Picture 4-5 is a rounding hammer that showed the same kind of crack as the first hammer. I heared no sound of cracking. I cracked it completely open to examine the grain and the crack itself. After this hammer cracked I assumed that I forged the steel too cold when drifting the eye. So I forged the next little 0.9 kg hammer a lot hotter. I will heat treat it the next week I think. What really confused me is the piece of steel in the last picture. I finished my guillotine tool today and tested it on this piece. Just a couple of heats and some hard hits with the hammer. After I finished I put the piece aside and shut down the forge. When I came back it wasnt red hot anymore but still hot (black heat). So I threw it in the water bucket to cool it down. After I looked at it I saw this big crack right through the fuller grove. Iam at a point now where I dont know what to do next. Nearly every piece of 1045 cracks (Iam glad the guillotine dies did not). I forge everything by hand so its really frustrating to see the hard work going to pieces in the quench. Any tips/suggestions? Those hammers are the first ones after changing from solid fuel to a gas forge. Can there be any connection to this? Iam thankful for every hint. Thanks Tim