C-1ToolSteel

Reminds me of the time I tried to make a silver dollar sized anvil, with a forge welded waist. I eventually gave up on trying to keep up with both tiny pieces in the coal forge. Don't you hate it when It eludes your tongs, and makes it all the way to the bottom of the firepot?!!

I decided if I was going to ditch gloves, I'd stay consistent with my other limbs... The socks were just for the picture, as I knew that the last thing you hot, tired, weary blacksmiths need to come home to is a picture of C-1's feet. Trust me on this one...

Nice job! Very life-like.

There are so many. I was comparing these two letter openers, and it got me thinking. Here's a picture of two items that are 95% identical, but it's the little 5% that makes it go from rather crummy to something nice looking. Tell us about a little thing you do in your shop that makes a BIG difference.

Nice work, Donnie. Here's my slightly different take on the same concept. Made from 3/16" round stock.

Well, being that it is more of a part of something than its own unit, chances are probably slim that there would be markings on it. Anvil collectors and lots of newbies (from watching Forged In Fire) are what is driving up the anvil market right now. Chances are, collectors wouldn't be interested, and, sadly, most newbies wouldn't either, as they are usually set strictly on the London pattern. That said, It would still make a fantastic anvil.

All sweet blades. I especially like the big'n!

My anvil would be constantly rusting if I didn't apply oil to the face after every forging session. I started using used motor oil for mine, and haven't had any issues whatsoever with it doing the job.

Fledgling Hawk, Forge welding and arc welding do have similarities, but they are very often not interchangeable. ...Just like dump trucks and cargo ships. You asked us which one is better, so tell us what kind of application you are referring to. Yeah, I know you meant "just in general", but that's like asking "What's better? Being equipped with the skills to fix the bucket on your front end loader, or being equipped with the skills to make your own Damascus blades?" They are both welding, right? Think about it for a minute. Arc welding wins for #1 and forge-welding wins for #2. It can be easy to ask yourself the right question, but leave out crucial variables when you ask someone else.

An old sledge hammer head would be a far better, far cheaper starter anvil. ...even if you have to buy one on eBay!

Wowwweeee.....there's another beauty! Can't say enough about how much I love your style and creativity. Your sheaths are also always works of art that add so much!

Question: What should I be paying for a London pattern anvil? Answer: The least amount of money you can get away with for an anvil that fits what you're looking for. "Price per lb" is dependent on WAY too many variables to be something you can realistically chart down. Take average eBay price versus average "hey, do you know anyone with an old anvil?" price. Look up "TPAAAT" on this forum for tips on scoring one. Also, keep in mind that the shape of the anvil does NOT determine how "good" it is. There are many pieces of random steel at my local scrap yard that I would gladly take over one of those cast-iron ASOs. This forum is THE PLACE to research anvils so that you can make an informed decision of what fits the bill. So, sorry that I can't answer your question in the way that you were probably hoping. I strongly suggest that you go the "back roads" route, though, for your anvil hunting. The truth is, if there are other people in the market for an anvil present, you're hard pressed to get a bargain.

I got into the craft wanting to make my own blades and so save the "ridiculous prices" of highly trained makers. I now realize that I could have skipped blacksmithing and mowed lawns and bought some of the fanciest swords out there and come out way ahead on time and money! I also know that I would not have traded the last few decades forging on my own for a stack of top maker swords laid flat and as tall as I am! - Thomas Powers

I LOVE this anvil!! I have seen a few pictures of them, but never worked on one. I just think the idea of the gradual slope over the sweet spot transitioning to the horn is genius. Looks like you could really do some impressive drawing out on that thing.

I would personally replace McDaniels book with Whane Goddard's "$50 Knife Shop". Lorielei's book will cover most everything important that is in "Blackmith Primer", and "$50 Knife Shop puts a different spin on knifemaking and blacksmithing that will really help diversify your knowlege as you are getting started. However, all of these books are exelent, so get them all, if you can afford them! Peter Parkinson's "Artist Bkacksmith" is a really good one for down the road.

I meant that if you tell us more details about what you have in mind for making the letters, we will be able to give better advise on how to get it done. I am by no means an expert smith, but I try to be of assistance when I can.

Ah, now I'm starting to picture it better. Yes, both of those tricks are good ones. I keep a role of wire in my smithy, and you bet it has come in handy. Wire and Playdough can do some of those really complicated, brain frying, mind bending math problems that us humans avoid like the plague! It just comes naturally to them... The two simple ways to get this project done are... 1: Double the stock over for letters that have a piece branching out. (See example pic) 2: Weld on a seperate piece instead of doubling up. This generally looks better that #1. Sorry for the poor pics. Tell us what you are tracking on, and it will be easier for us to try to help out.

We need more details. How big are these letters? Can you give some approximate dimensions? Are you welding the letters together? Are you screwing them onto a board? Are you trying to make the letters flat, or round? You said you have a lot of 1/2" round stock, and you don't know how to make the letters exept the T. Obviously, we're missing something, because just bending a piece of round stock into a G is pretty intuitive, right? Details, please!!

Ahhh, looks like BUGGUN nailed it!

My first thought was a tractor weight, but I'm starting to think it is something else for a couple reasons. For one, it isn't shaped like most tractor weights, even though it does resemble one at first glance. Secondly, it says "FORGED STEEL". Why would they go to the expense of closed-die forging their weights? Is cast iron an insufficient material to make an ugly chunk of gravity? I don't see how that would help their marketing, even if they were lying. Sure, it will work for an anvil!

Littleblacksmith sent me that video a while back. Pretty ingenious! That guy has some amazing stuff. Check out the mud forge and blower he did! I'm not personally inclined to reject every benifit of living in a word full of inventions, but I can't say it ain't impressive to see guys like him start at square ZERO! Oh, there's the blower one! Didn't see that you already posted it.

Sorry to hear that, brother. I'm praying for complete healing, and that it would work out for good, nomatter the outcome.

Nailing stations??? Super nice vise!

As Glenn and Thomas are saying, that is a very loaded question. Whatever the "bare minimum" is, to make a knife, ain't gonna be the the same as the bare mininum to make a knife, and actually have any FUN at the same time!! What *you* can get by with is more realative to different factors than you think it is. What the bare minimum would be to get *me* to make a knife would be something like this: angle grinder, file , drill (if you are using pins for the handle), sand paper, some kind of oil for quenching, hair dryer (to blow on a small fire for heat treating), and probably a couple other small thigs I'm forgetting... Oh, and the materials for the knife itself, of course. Yes, buy the book "$50 Knife Shop". Twenty bucks now might save $1,000 worth of head ache!

From the picture, it looks like you will need to grind on at least one face, so why not just buy a regular 4 lb hammer? Wood handled ones are all over the place, and you can grind one face round to fit your needs.