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About templehound

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    Senior Member
  • Birthday 12/25/1962

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    Baan Gaew Suan, Thailand

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  1. Once in a while there are sheaths with more effort than usual.Two of them I think they are worth posting. The first one for the knife I posted already here https://www.iforgeiron.com/topic/48962-ramco-07/ It is made from water buffalo hide with some embellishment, Something we Germans call a "Stocknagel"https://www.google.co.th/search?q=Stocknagel+images&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwi_0vK60MnTAhVLLY8KHZhqBm8QsAQIIw&biw=1093&bih=510...... It is made from copper and a small silver nugget that I once found. It is riveted from the inside with small bronce washers and then lined with caddle leather. And here is the second knife, which I posted herehttps://www.iforgeiron.com/topic/47254-the-beauty-of-filth/#comment-492231 Made from semi-tanned caddle leather with a raw hide core and another "Horn Mohawk" to enhance stiffness and to protect the edge of the sheath. Cheers
  2. Köszönöm, Gergely!
  3. Thanks a lot, fellows!
  4. Lighter than a common parang but heavier than a machete this jungle knife, with a 250 mm long roller bearing blade (1.3505), has a copper ferrule and a 3-layer laminated Iron wood handle. The tang is riveted on the butt and overall length is 400 mm. The sheath is made from water buffalo leather and has a "horn mohawk" which protects the tip againts bumps and wear. The end of the belt strap is just pushed into that sewn, small compartment, it allows to remove the knife without opening the belt. Back drop is an India rubber mat, local product from our area, which has plenty of rubber plantations. Cheers
  5. I am very pleased about those fine compliments, Thank You very much, Guys! I appreciate this a lot!
  6. It works like a foot in the door, ...the second lever is just pulled under the spring. The second lever is hold by a M2 screw with screw head and there is an additional M2 thread in the liner, so this two threads help the fine adjusting of the lever. To give the right amount of friction and resistance while moving, the lever is also underlaid with a small Teflon washer( like the blade). The screw head is secured with a drop of Locktite so it wont get loose after a while. I have a personal folder with that lock and after two years in daily use the lever has still its tight walk like on the first day. Thanks rockstar.esq! There is the lacking in my English that I have doubts that I got You what You mean.... ...if You mean the one slides under the other, that it cannot pushed down anymore, than You got it...
  7. Thanks a lot, Gentlemen!
  8. Large hunting folder that has 110 mm in blade length, 2,8 mm in width and measures 240 mm overall. It has a additional lock for "the sake of the reliance" ... Steel is 1.2442 (115W8), Indian rose chestnut for the scales, liners and second lock are 6AL4V and the mechanical parts are made from 1.1274 high carbon spring steel. cheers
  9. Thanks DASwulf , it is the base of a leaf of a Betel nut tree(Areca catechu), it is hard and thick when dried, just like wood veneer. Thanks KRS, .....und Grüsse nach Bayern!
  10. Thanks a lot, Boys!
  11. Second real knife....? Good classically proportioned design, full taper on the blade, cable welded blade....that is not beginners level, it is real advanced class....and You did excellent! ....actually" second-real-knife-makers" are not supposed to be that good....I am plastered
  12. A small utility knife with 1.2442 (115W8) blade and copper riveted Ceylon ironwood handle slabs. Overall length is 200 mm. Traditional rolled blade and stropped edge resulting in a nearly disgusting sharpness. Actually too small to be attached to the belt, but small enough to fit in a lot of different pockets. In Germany a lot of traditional clothing like cultural dresses, work and hunting wear still have slender pockets for knives integrated. Mostly on the right thigh for folding inch rulers on work wear or for the "Jagdnicker" on hunting pants and "Lederhosen". Sheath is wet formed raw hide, lined with calf skin. The riged back enhances stiffness and leaving a rhombic cross section that gives more space for the blade and less contact with the leather. Cheers
  13. Thanks Benton!
  14. Thanks for the fine comments, Guys! 1776 : Ceylon ironwood is not that hard like Desert ironwood. It needs sharp belts, but do not wear them down so fast as Desert ironwood does.the dust is slightly toxic and this heavy wood makes fine dust that goes in absolutely everywhere in the work shop.It just works like Ebony or the like. Except sawing needs a fresh, sharp band on the saw. In use, the wood performs very well.It stays pretty true, very good for folders. Frosty: For me as a bloody beginner, it is very dependent on the "everyday's light" and good piece of luck Thanks!
  15. ....most of the time never entertain us with that much diversity.They are all about quality and endurance. Also this locking liner sports Ceylon iron wood for the handle slabs,, 6Al4V on the liners and and high carbon spring steel for the clip and the mechanical parts. Except the blade this time is different. I made it from a semi industrial made Damascus steel forged by my old friend and colleague Achim Wirtz http://www.lohmann-stahl.de/kontakt/ O1, 1.5634(75Ni8) and 1.2442(115W8) sharing the approximately 180 layers. Etched in instant coffee and gun blued on the rear. I am not the guy who prefers Damascus on a working blade but this stuff performs like a super tough mono steel with excellent wear resistance.....and that is rare to push the big compromise on performance that close toghether. The only thing I can't take the steel into my production offer is it's(fully justified) high price.....but once in a while there is the opportunity and the pleasure. Cheers