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I Forge Iron


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About templehound

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    Baan Gaew Suan, Thailand

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  1. Thanks a lot for the fine comments, Gentlemen! It is the flight image of a common buzzard.Its my touchmark since almost 30years. Thanks George N.M.
  2. Despite the changes that I made, I tried to stay as close to the originals as possible. The fullered blade is 310 mm long and forged from fresh, non recycled 55Si7 springsteel. The handle is made from Ceylon ironwood. I used mild steel for the ferrule and the tang is riveted over the butt, forming the center of the sterling silver flower. It has a wooden sheath covered with cow leather and the chape is silver plated copper. Instead of a Chakmak sharpener I made a small wood chisel which is more useful to me. The chisel and the small Karda knife are ground from 1.5634 (75Ni8). To save s
  3. Your etch is not deep enough thats because you can wipe it off. Ferric chloride is good for coloring but not good for deep etching. Etch with H2So4(38%, room temperature)to get some depth then etch in ferric chloride to get rhe colors, But cold instant coffee is much better then ferric chloride.....the etch with coffe is more even, it etches faster and it is no chemical poison when it needs to be disposed.
  4. Thanks for the nice comments, Gentlemen!
  5. This knife is designed for the jungle and other tropical environments. Its blade length is 245 mm and it measures 390 mm overall length. For the blade steel I used 1.2442 (115W8), handle and sheath are made from Tropical almond tree (Terminalia catappa) and all fittings are copper. the sheath has a retension spring and the tang is riveted over the butt forming the center of the flower. It weighs 440 grams, with the sheath 720 grams. In the video You can see how it moves and bites as well as it is carried, drawn and put back into the shaeth with one hand. Tested on fully grown, mature bam
  6. I do not worry about when my work inspires other makers, it is rather a great honor, Thank You mate! Thank You boisdarc! JHCC: Thanks for Your clarification, ...it was forgetful not mentioning Pterocarpus soyauxii Thanks all for sharing your experiences and the nice contributions, ! Cheers
  7. Thanks JHCC, appreciate Your comment! SLAG: ....first Thanks for Your comment.....now Padouk: Well, what can I say....I used Padouk for 20 years of knifemaking(since I live in Thailand) on dozens of knife handles and I cannot remember a single piece that caused any problems at all. Padouk is one of the most reliable, enduring, forgiving, strong materials I know....in fact it is so good that I use it besides Ceylon iron wood the most. You have to consider a few facts, when judging Padouk: there are the two main types in the Padouk family: Pterocarpus macrocarpus a
  8. Allround user with padouk, copper ferrule and a blade made from 1.2419.05(130WCrV5) This cold work tool steel is a special alloy coming from my old friend and colleague Achim Wirtz He described it as the 07 on steroids.That description fits just perfect.... Tang is riveted on he butt and the sheath is water buffalo leather and copper for the fittings. Cheers
  9. Actually bnewberry showed his newest creation rather than starting a topic about birch bark handles....didnt he? Seven comments, six of them discussing birch bark....I override the birch bark and rather comment on the knife which shows one of the most useful blade and handle shape combinations....vicious convex blade grind and beautifully tapered formed handle! Thats a fine user You made!....on the riveting of tang on the butt I agree with George....there is space for developement Add a secondary washer disk this helps riveting and looks more clean and crafty. Cheers
  10. You just started and You are full of impressions....one impression hunts another. Sometimes it is difficult for me to follow every error and trial You have been through, but You do well and above all You pay attention very well and You are thinking.Just collect on all those impressions and with time a lot of questions will be answered by themselfs. Maybe add a jig to get the ricasso even and scribe a middle line.....couldnt tell from the pics if you did when you understand whats happening You dont need filing jigs anymore, you dont want them anymore....there is a point whe
  11. As a younger knifemaker I tried different chains to forge weld into a blade, but always as a san mai construction, like Thomas suggested. Because from the view what performance a whatever chain has to bring there are or maybe at least 2-3 different types of steel involved.Chainsaw, motorbike timing chain and outside chains, they all took some hardness but it was obvious that there are parts which are meant only to be tough.So as a mono blade there is in my opinion no edge holding to expect. Another point is the chain outsides on chain san mai will move much faster under the ham
  12. Thanks a lot Guys! Momatt, neither ground nor forged.I cut it with a tool like a Japanese sen. I can show You the cutting head. The handle was just a piece of flat stock mild steel 260x 30x 6 mm with a square cut out in the middle and a M4 screw to fasten the cutting head. That handle is not there anymore, because I had to cut it down to get some bolster material. Due to the Pandemie I could not get to the next town stack up my bolster material so I took the handle.But making a new one is no big deal. I made the head of 1.2562 and gave him a 60Degree angle. Che
  13. The blade is made from 75Ni8 bandsaw steel with high toughness and has a length of 170 mm. Together with steel pinned sambar scales it results in a very tough combination. Overall length measures 295 mm. The sheath is made from Sea Teak wood and semi tanned leather with a raw hide core. stay healthy Cheers
  14. ........... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nBMzq2GUkjQ&feature=youtu.be
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