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I Forge Iron

templehound

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About templehound

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    Baan Gaew Suan, Thailand

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  1. Thanks a lot Guys! Momatt, neither ground nor forged.I cut it with a tool like a Japanese sen. I can show You the cutting head. The handle was just a piece of flat stock mild steel 260x 30x 6 mm with a square cut out in the middle and a M4 screw to fasten the cutting head. That handle is not there anymore, because I had to cut it down to get some bolster material. Due to the Pandemie I could not get to the next town stack up my bolster material so I took the handle.But making a new one is no big deal. I made the head of 1.2562 and gave him a 60Degree angle. Cheers
  2. The blade is made from 75Ni8 bandsaw steel with high toughness and has a length of 170 mm. Together with steel pinned sambar scales it results in a very tough combination. Overall length measures 295 mm. The sheath is made from Sea Teak wood and semi tanned leather with a raw hide core. stay healthy Cheers
  3. ........... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nBMzq2GUkjQ&feature=youtu.be
  4. Thanks for the nice comments, Guys! Thomas, thats coincidence, its supposed to look like a butt... Cheers
  5. The 220 mm long blade is made from Wirtz-Damascus, handle and sheath from Ibex horn and the fittings are copper Overall length is 360 mm. Cheers
  6. Here is another semi drop point hunter.....Blade is ground from 1.2442, bolsters and riveted pins are made from some Thai construction crap steel. It was shortly finished after that one...iforgeiron.com/topic/64008-plain-hunter/ which I saw it like wood for the fire now its bone for the earth. Cheers
  7. Thats what I thought. so the answer is definitely not" Yes" ....that aint a smooth transition...pretty coarse wedge
  8. Ridiculous 20, secondary 40....I am not certain what do you like to say/ask.... Mostly I grind blades down to a thickness of 0,20-0,30 mm so that they flex on my bare thumbnail. A blade that is ground so thin and sharpened with a primary bevel of 20 Degree , is not ridiculous at all. Well, that cuts like poison! Those 0,20-30mm can be easily stropped down to zero....rolled edge is the term, I guess. That is the old school and best edge You can get on a knife blade. Based on that, the "meat" behind the edge determines how strong Your edge will be.... So the secondary40 means the blade flanks?......please enlighten me Cheers
  9. Thanks for the fine comments, Gentlemen!
  10. Simple drop point hunting tool with 2442-blade, copper bolsters and Ceylon ironwood. Sheath made from water buffalo and high carbon spring steel clip. Cheers
  11. Somehow I missed that one.....IMHO slip joints are more fun to make then using them. ...and they come not easy off the bench. This one looks great!
  12. Frosty, Pnut, thanks for your comments! They are appreciated a lot!
  13. Here are three of my recent folders I made the last months. As they come in unetched Wirtz-Damascus with Padouk, O1 with Ceylon ironwood and etched Wirtz-Damascus with Indian almond tree. Liners are springy hard titanium 6Al4V, locking springs are high tempered1095 and the screws are hardened low carbon steel. Cheers
  14. Increase the carbon content of 1095 high carbon steel? it has already 1% Carbon!.. Steve said it already, Why?.......for what?......whats the point in this? I just dont get it.....thats not crazy, please forgive me with all due respect...thats very close to silly.....but I will not offend You, dont get me wrong here. It is contra productive.....it will go at least 0,10mm deep from both sides of the blade. Youre edge and tip will pop off due the lack of toughness, it turnes out super-brittle....and you can temper as you want....it wont change anything. Dont waste your time and money, dont ruin good American high carbon steel! do and try something more reasonable instead.....but like I said, no offence.
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