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I Forge Iron

templehound

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    Baan Gaew Suan, Thailand

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  1. Thanks for the nice comments Gentlemen, much appreciated! Mr. Slag: I think your question is already largely answered. I may add that the bark mostly is the enamel .So the stronger/harder part of the tusk. There are two different outer layers on a tusk or tooth.The cementum is the outer layer covering the dentin in the root area, the enamel is the outer layer that covers the dentin in the crown area.
  2. I googled "Disadvantages of slipjoint knives" because there are simply no advantages in slipjoint knives except better than no knife, flint blades or friction folders. I was just curious if something would come up that I don't know yet and the first meets my eye was in " People also ask" -Are slipjoints safe-....that made me grin. But what I didn't knew was that they are around since 1660 and that's a very long time. So it's all about nostalgia and they are practically legal in most countries ....an advantage hidden in the disadvantages Knife laws made the slipjoint rise again at least in Germany.... On this one blade, spring and bolsters are made from 1.5634 (75Ni8) bandsaw steel, steel pinned mammoth bark, German silver for the liners and instead a nail nick I made a fuller. Cheers
  3. Larrin Thomas is really good.....I agree with him as far as my humble practical experience confirms Considering the overall information we got, there is an incredible range of different hardness on the blades that are able to cut a nail or steel parts. Richtig's blades:.....They also measured hardness for the knives with the large knife ranging between 36-46 Rc with an average of about 39 Rc and the small knife 40-56 Rc with an average of 50 Rc. Shawn Houston, CPM15V, 67 HRC ! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bliUWSXm09o the blades that perform well in that kind of cutting test are so different ...that is fascinating so it is not the alloy, not the HT, not the hardness that only leaves the geometry and....."how" the blade is pounded into that cutting object. a few years ago I experimented on that subject and diced up nails with a blade. It performed really nice the first 7 or 8 cuts, than it chipped from one side of the edge. I realized that I became sloppy in the angle of holding the blade and hitting its back. that made my blade fail. so I think Larrin Thomas is as close as revealing "the secret HT" of Richtig....geometry, skills and showman ship... for all the live performances and sensational events he performed he had to give the thing a name seems that the HT fitted the best...."HT" means heat treatment or we could understand it as The secret "how to" of Frank Richtig...well, just fooling around with words.
  4. I second that, Thanks for the link, Buzzkill!
  5. Daswulf, maybe You know this article already, but it is worth to post a link.....in the 1930's Frank Richtig did some performance that could not be matched until today. It is fascinating how thin on the edge and how different hard his blades were...there must be some manual skills how accurate in angle and speed the blade is driven into a chunk!(not a nail!) of steel....he never gave up his secret until he died, ....imaging the bragging of modern knife producers if they could do the same performance... https://knifesteelnerds.com/2019/07/08/frank-j-richtig/ I love watching FIF....very entertaining and "cringing"......always fun watching and try to predict what will happen.
  6. SlimW, Thanks for the nice comment! Well, to be honest....I never felt that grinding a knife blade was or is easy...of course it depends.... the difference from a piece of crap to a good blade is space for plenty of results.
  7. Daswulf, Frosty: I cut nails 12 times and I felt some discomfort every cut, even I knew it was fool-proof.....normally I would not ask a blade to perform this either. ...even if I know the blade could take it....but I needed some "cringe" or "excitement" for the video with a context to the "geometry and HT are more important than the alloy"- subject.....Thanks for your contributions, Guys!
  8. Thanks for the beautiful comments, Gentlemen! They are much appreciated!
  9. I decided to make a film about a knife....that didn't work out, so I made a knife for a film and that turned out better. The "plot" describes the philosophy of the mechanical advantages and properties of the construction and the knife, ... as there would be: Heat treatment and geometry are more important than the alloy, the sense and purpose of real ferrules in hidden tang knives, the advantages of a laminated wooden handle, the high performance, the handling, the balance, and last but not least the advantages of the sheath and its structure. Capturing the atmosphere of the environment and making and performing own audio tracks was indispensable and vital..... so, here is the film about this knife, it was an unbelievable amount of work, took me 1 1/2 years to make and ruined 2 1/2 cameras and my PC is drowning in a chaos of files, folders, audio and video tracks and pieces....I even cannot remember what they are all about, but that's not important anymore..... here it is,... 30 minutes of "spiritual" distraction.... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HCWHDekWt0o&t=4s
  10. Thanks Frosty, much appreciated!
  11. ....that is such a broad question....imagine how much we have to write, explain, answer etc to nail that..... ....you checked the internet? ...most of liner locks can be "flipped"...
  12. During my education as a traditional German cutler and blade smith I had to do slip joints.....and I didn't like them at all. There are a lot of do's and don'ts on slipjoints ...from limited using range to the fact that they are very hard to clean.... Also the very small design range when making them....compared to a linerlock they must loose in every aspect. (actually it would be more appropriate to compare linerlocks with backlock knives, but I compared them just under the term of folding knives.).... ....and yes, not to forget: we are not supposed to let them snap back into the handle....a good crisp, long lasting spring has a strong snap and the edge will thereby hit the spring and get a nick.....reason for the monstrous kick heels on some traditional pocket knife patterns ....as You for shure know....nevertheless the heels, it can smack the edge.....so do not let the blade snap into the handle. But that's the half part of the fun... ...and this is the reason I love them nowadays....the are great fun to make....somehow they are like a toy to me.... maybe they are the most useful toy that exists. They walk and talk with a strong whack when they are opened and a good snap when they are closed....There are plenty of challenging things on the making of a slip joint, like for example, to design them that You can let the blade snap back into the handle... If the linguistic and rethoric context is slightly adjusted in a translation of the term "slipjoint knives", in three languages of English. German and Thai, it can result in "Jumping joint jack knife" ....so it is the "Jumping Jack" Here is a traditional one in O7 steel for blade and spring, some crap steel for the bolsters , German silver liners and fossile bone handle slabs. here You can hear it talking and see it walking https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qcb_Sp0QOrw Stay healthy Cheers
  13. I once red an article written by Ed Fowler.He cold forged mild steel to a decent blade.In this case Cold forged means reallly cold forged like hammering the edge of a scythe. no fire and heat just patiently hammering the blade.....it showed good results, not a winner in edge holding but because of the fine grain fairly tough and as good as it can be used....but horse shoes still got their holes
  14. Thats a solid user! The materials 1095 and canvas micarta are nearly indestructable....and You got a nice design with a pleasing agressive tension in the spine line. ....and a nice form on the handle as well.... I see You had or maybe had some struggle with the blade finish....a bit too uneven and coarse, but maybe You wanted it that way because the finish is first to be ruined on a user that will see field action....cutting through hay wire a sheepfoot blade came immediately to my mind....but sheepfoots are not the blade forms that win the beauty contest and that curved skinner is much more attractive ....and with its large belly this blade will get the job done pretty well. Cool knife! Cheers
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