templehound

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About templehound

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    Senior Member
  • Birthday 12/25/1962

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    Baan Gaew Suan, Thailand

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  1. I am very pleased about those fine compliments, Thank You very much, Guys! I appreciate this a lot!
  2. It works like a foot in the door, ...the second lever is just pulled under the spring. The second lever is hold by a M2 screw with screw head and there is an additional M2 thread in the liner, so this two threads help the fine adjusting of the lever. To give the right amount of friction and resistance while moving, the lever is also underlaid with a small Teflon washer( like the blade). The screw head is secured with a drop of Locktite so it wont get loose after a while. I have a personal folder with that lock and after two years in daily use the lever has still its tight walk like on the first day. Thanks rockstar.esq! There is the lacking in my English that I have doubts that I got You what You mean.... ...if You mean the one slides under the other, that it cannot pushed down anymore, than You got it...
  3. Thanks a lot, Gentlemen!
  4. Large hunting folder that has 110 mm in blade length, 2,8 mm in width and measures 240 mm overall. It has a additional lock for "the sake of the reliance" ... Steel is 1.2442 (115W8), Indian rose chestnut for the scales, liners and second lock are 6AL4V and the mechanical parts are made from 1.1274 high carbon spring steel. cheers
  5. Thanks DASwulf , it is the base of a leaf of a Betel nut tree(Areca catechu), it is hard and thick when dried, just like wood veneer. Thanks KRS, .....und Grüsse nach Bayern!
  6. Thanks a lot, Boys!
  7. Second real knife....? Good classically proportioned design, full taper on the blade, cable welded blade....that is not beginners level, it is real advanced class....and You did excellent! ....actually" second-real-knife-makers" are not supposed to be that good....I am plastered
  8. A small utility knife with 1.2442 (115W8) blade and copper riveted Ceylon ironwood handle slabs. Overall length is 200 mm. Traditional rolled blade and stropped edge resulting in a nearly disgusting sharpness. Actually too small to be attached to the belt, but small enough to fit in a lot of different pockets. In Germany a lot of traditional clothing like cultural dresses, work and hunting wear still have slender pockets for knives integrated. Mostly on the right thigh for folding inch rulers on work wear or for the "Jagdnicker" on hunting pants and "Lederhosen". Sheath is wet formed raw hide, lined with calf skin. The riged back enhances stiffness and leaving a rhombic cross section that gives more space for the blade and less contact with the leather. Cheers
  9. Thanks Benton!
  10. Thanks for the fine comments, Guys! 1776 : Ceylon ironwood is not that hard like Desert ironwood. It needs sharp belts, but do not wear them down so fast as Desert ironwood does.the dust is slightly toxic and this heavy wood makes fine dust that goes in absolutely everywhere in the work shop.It just works like Ebony or the like. Except sawing needs a fresh, sharp band on the saw. In use, the wood performs very well.It stays pretty true, very good for folders. Frosty: For me as a bloody beginner, it is very dependent on the "everyday's light" and good piece of luck Thanks!
  11. ....most of the time never entertain us with that much diversity.They are all about quality and endurance. Also this locking liner sports Ceylon iron wood for the handle slabs,, 6Al4V on the liners and and high carbon spring steel for the clip and the mechanical parts. Except the blade this time is different. I made it from a semi industrial made Damascus steel forged by my old friend and colleague Achim Wirtz http://www.lohmann-stahl.de/kontakt/ O1, 1.5634(75Ni8) and 1.2442(115W8) sharing the approximately 180 layers. Etched in instant coffee and gun blued on the rear. I am not the guy who prefers Damascus on a working blade but this stuff performs like a super tough mono steel with excellent wear resistance.....and that is rare to push the big compromise on performance that close toghether. The only thing I can't take the steel into my production offer is it's(fully justified) high price.....but once in a while there is the opportunity and the pleasure. Cheers
  12. Hi there, it is all about compromise(like always..) For example:...on Titanium jewellery the colors seem to stay forever......on Titanium blades there is, (if they will be used)always heavy friction while cutting, so.....it is quite obvious which one is prone to wear off or which one lasts longer, right? There are two common ways(maybe more) to color Titanium, anodizing and heat coloring.I prefer the heat coloring, You don"t need special equipment except a Butan gas flame and some degreaser. While the anodizing makes it easier to catch the blue color the heat variation gives better yellow, bronce to violet colors, which I like more. Mostly there are 5 different kinds of Titanium, from butter-soft to springy hard, and they all coloring a bit different, especially in time of the Titanium reacting to the heat. I think a good example are the liners of a folder. I use 6AL4V because of its toughness on small threads(like M2) and its stability to stay straight. Good example is my personal folder which I use every day.I shot a pic of the butt with its most worn down spot to give evidence that it is a real used one. Folder is about 3 years old and You can see that the colored Titanium holds on really well. Coatings can be done but with less or more success. In my opinion coatings look cheap, distorting colors and wearing off very fast but..... taste can not be argued
  13. BIGGUNDOCTOR and DASWULF, Thanks Fellas, I appreciate that a lot!
  14. ......the liners are 6AL4V and the clip and all mechanical parts are high carbon spring steel. I always give the slabs a little oversize of about 0,10 mm, because in Europe it is much less air humidity than in the tropics. Cheers
  15. That is not a Bowie, it is a Crowie.....inhaling classical forms, blend them and heading straight to combat