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I Forge Iron


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About templehound

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    Senior Member

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    Baan Gaew Suan, Thailand

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  1. For the second knife that turned out pretty good....thats what came immediately to my mind. As a suggestion or stimulus I would recommend take a look and give a thought in size and design ratio....that design is too much like a spade. It is for most tasks too wide, whether you peel an apple or dress game while hunting.Maybe You can skin with it but when releasing bones out of joints there is simply not enough space most of the time for such a broad blade.....and it would aesthetically look better if not that broad. I dont know if I understand it linguisticall
  2. Hondo, 99% of reason for failure forge welding is fire control.You have to understand the fact of a reduced fire. first: Take a look at the video of Black Bear Forge, he explains it excellent. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j814AqiKVvE second: do not use scrap steel! You are not saving money!! You will be wasting time and! money!Recycling on old leaf springs, shear blades, etc. is more expensive than a few bucks for fresh clean tool steel. and as Thomas pointed out, the error of steel alloys that comes with scrap steel. cheers
  3. Thanks Rhyfelwr, much appreciated Thank You HondoWalker! That Bowie turned out great, You are on the right way!
  4. Thanks for the nice comments, Gentlemen!
  5. The blade is 300 mm long and forged of 120WNi8V. It is a special steel which is non commercially made by an old friend of mine Thomas Hauschild who works in a steel company. There he experimented and processed on a Damascus component which contains tungsten as well as nickel up to 2%.He gifted me an oblong rectangular chunk which I could forge on into some blades. " Continue kneading it nicely" ...he said Until today it is the toughest steel on a knife blade that I worked with....means easy to forge, grind and finish but resulting in a super tough blade......I wish I had a ton
  6. Thanks a lot for the fine comments, Gentlemen! It is the flight image of a common buzzard.Its my touchmark since almost 30years. Thanks George N.M.
  7. Despite the changes that I made, I tried to stay as close to the originals as possible. The fullered blade is 310 mm long and forged from fresh, non recycled 55Si7 springsteel. The handle is made from Ceylon ironwood. I used mild steel for the ferrule and the tang is riveted over the butt, forming the center of the sterling silver flower. It has a wooden sheath covered with cow leather and the chape is silver plated copper. Instead of a Chakmak sharpener I made a small wood chisel which is more useful to me. The chisel and the small Karda knife are ground from 1.5634 (75Ni8). To save s
  8. Your etch is not deep enough thats because you can wipe it off. Ferric chloride is good for coloring but not good for deep etching. Etch with H2So4(38%, room temperature)to get some depth then etch in ferric chloride to get rhe colors, But cold instant coffee is much better then ferric chloride.....the etch with coffe is more even, it etches faster and it is no chemical poison when it needs to be disposed.
  9. Thanks for the nice comments, Gentlemen!
  10. This knife is designed for the jungle and other tropical environments. Its blade length is 245 mm and it measures 390 mm overall length. For the blade steel I used 1.2442 (115W8), handle and sheath are made from Tropical almond tree (Terminalia catappa) and all fittings are copper. the sheath has a retension spring and the tang is riveted over the butt forming the center of the flower. It weighs 440 grams, with the sheath 720 grams. In the video You can see how it moves and bites as well as it is carried, drawn and put back into the shaeth with one hand. Tested on fully grown, mature bam
  11. I do not worry about when my work inspires other makers, it is rather a great honor, Thank You mate! Thank You boisdarc! JHCC: Thanks for Your clarification, ...it was forgetful not mentioning Pterocarpus soyauxii Thanks all for sharing your experiences and the nice contributions, ! Cheers
  12. Thanks JHCC, appreciate Your comment! SLAG: ....first Thanks for Your comment.....now Padouk: Well, what can I say....I used Padouk for 20 years of knifemaking(since I live in Thailand) on dozens of knife handles and I cannot remember a single piece that caused any problems at all. Padouk is one of the most reliable, enduring, forgiving, strong materials I know....in fact it is so good that I use it besides Ceylon iron wood the most. You have to consider a few facts, when judging Padouk: there are the two main types in the Padouk family: Pterocarpus macrocarpus a
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