templehound

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About templehound

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    Baan Gaew Suan, Thailand

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  1. templehound

    how do you test your knives?

    ...... I forgot to mention that the best testing(of course all IMHO) is, to carry and use the blade for an amount of time.Of course it is not possible for a full time maker to do this with every blade, the same with testing abrasion resistance on cutting cardboard. so it reduces it to testing the stability of a fine edge which is to me actually more important than testing wear resistance....like for example: it is technically obvious that O7 is more abrasive resistant than 1095 ....how is that said in English?....we can tell it i/fromn the books? I had over the years now and then a blade which I was not satisfied with the grind and sorted it out.Such blades remain on the bench and being used and abused for all the dirty work I wont use a blade normally....and I was often amazed what these knife blades could and did endure. Cheers
  2. templehound

    Les Paul Guitar

    .....Wow!!....speachless is what I am...
  3. templehound

    how do you test your knives?

    Well, to compare cars with knives is often pretty compatible....if You drive the car against a wall and it is damaged , so it dosent mean it was a bad car. IMHO It is the same with chopping nails(work of a cold chisel!)....a knife which can do this is simply dull, thick edged and not capable of cutting anything else than do coarse chopping. or some "tactical"prying. The same with bending....a big blade with 10inches by 4 mm thickness made of 1.2552 You wont be able bending it at all to 30 Degrees, the strength of this alloy is so solid and firm....it is possible but with a lever. and beyond 40Degrees it will break like an explosion and You will stagger away from the vise, because of the amount of force compared to body balance. But every maker has its testing, which is the free room of what every maker needs or believes. Blades that are meant to cut should be tested with cutting. Every new born blade I sharpen until it has got even burr.After removing the burr I take extra thin cigarette paper and I look at the cuts if there is tearing at the paper fibres. It should be possible to cut fine stripes by stripe.You will see, where the burr is not removed completely...there the cut stops. I start with gently whittling a piece of giraffe bone.....examine with a magnifying glass the effects, followed by another cut in the paper to check Followed by whittling ironwood and (sometimes) cutting card board...always checking the effect in the tore of the cigarette paper after testing the blade still was hair popping, but has a bit tore on the paper. Blade is made of O7, ground on the edge to 0,3 mm and has about 61HRC +/-1 Cutting bone and hard wood is IMHO much more telling in less time than cutting card board...because with some alloys You need to cut a lot of card board until You can tell something about wear resistance.....too much time and card board messed all over the shop, You also need a temporary handle option to be able to make at least 100 cuts without hurting your hand but again, knives are in a big range of what the maker expects and aim for.
  4. templehound

    Laminate hunter with reindeer handle

    Nice work!.....clean lines indeed and interesting lamination of the blade (the guard plate could have a millimeter more in thickness, but not necessary.) .... the backdrop is so fatal that it is nearly art
  5. templehound

    Sharpening Tools

    Nice tool You made there. On the pictures, which are quite good, I see that the edge is still much too thick. Like most of these tools it should have a only single bevel on the outside. If its single beveled and thin enough than You can sharpen (strop) it with a wet sanding paper file maybe You take a look at this.Even if it is much bigger in the radius it shows excellent blade geometry, that will work fine and sharpen easy. https://www.google.com/search?q=edge+geometry+on+spoon+carving+knife&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwiBsbSBgbvfAhWVfisKHSCTCJ0QsAR6BAgDEAE&biw=1093&bih=501#imgdii=VJoyGBHNdV4DEM:&imgrc=_pt7b00_ZpavXM: Cheers
  6. templehound

    The Diving Peregrino

    Bryson489, Thad,... Thank You very much!
  7. templehound

    First Knife Attempts (Photo Heavy)

    Thank You for Your kind words, Neil.I appreciate them Merry Christmas
  8. templehound

    First Knife Attempts (Photo Heavy)

    Now is it to the point, where I understand it even less than before....in my understanding You try to interpret something between the lines..? But I have to point out that "such" conversation is far above my skills in speaking English, so the chance that I get You completely wrong is there for sure. As the same that I didnt red the edition of the book in English.I red the book in its German edition and it is far away of beeing insulting, neither cynical nor sarcastic. In fact it is a very good book, with the intention to educate people so that there can be better qualities in the result....dosent matter if you are blade-or blacksmith. Old school saying in German is right in the face, especially in the profession of metal working society...its about precision in word and in deed, so nothing comes from behind. Nobody needs that to make good quality and quality is what counts....not what might be there between the lines. I dared to pick up Your words but feeling pretty unsure if I got this right, hope You dont mind and still see the conversation with and of good will. You have some serious knowledge about the whole thing, I like this and respect this a lot. with all due respect Daniel PS: that has nothing to do with the topic of Coyotebait, sorry man, that we went in and an off topic direction Cheers
  9. templehound

    First Knife Attempts (Photo Heavy)

    Sly, a lot of good advices in my opinion You are giving there.You mentioned Verhoevens book, thats the best advice....i just dont understand what name is an insult?
  10. templehound

    First Knife Attempts (Photo Heavy)

    A forged frying pan as "the inspiration" for making knives.....kinda cool The second knife is the serious one. the first and the third are honorable efforts but ...Nr.one has only wrapped handle and like it looks just a fat uneven bevel on flatstock and Nr. three is still half a wrench that will turn in the hand while chopping....so my focus is on Nr2 as a developed knife.....that came out ok, mate. still there are a lot of aspects to improve.Like control over HT(you need a Thermometer!) understanding blade geometries(thinner edges, !) avoid fancy profiles like finger grooves like on Nr2 which is undeveloped ...keep it more! simple and so on.... it is difficult and time consuming to advice You in all the right directions, so lets turn the spit over and ask You: What is it that You need to know?....what makes You struggle the most?....how can I(we) help You?..... all in a nut shell,...with Nr2 You did a good job! Good luck and Happy christmas.
  11. templehound

    The Diving Peregrino

    Jeepin Joe, bigfootnampa, Sly....Thanks, Guys!
  12. templehound

    First puukko. No1 Mk3.

    .....aah!...cat hair,...I missed that completely
  13. templehound

    First puukko. No1 Mk3.

    If thats a crack, it is in the middle of the flank and away from the edge. Its IMHO not that fatal like the tang but on the other aspects I agree with You too in old school technique(sorry I am pretty old school) it is a tapering, form fitting construction from both parts like on the drawing. (I took it from an explanation to a German fellow so the words are in German and translate tang(Angel), ferrule(Zwinge) and grip material(Griffmaterial)) Cheers
  14. templehound

    First puukko. No1 Mk3.

    I like the convex grind and of course Your punch mark,...but that tang is definitely to weak.
  15. templehound

    The Diving Peregrino

    Thanks Marc1! BecauseI I dont like a fullers which goes pointy in and out of the blade, looks inharmonious to my eyes...when a fuller comes from the heft(like on some Medieval swords for example) and tapers with its single tip forwards to the tip this feels/looks more beautiful to me....i am not really sure if I explained this properly in English, but maybe You guys know what I mean I took me quite some time figuring out how to do this. It could have been done by casting but I never liked casting fittings, dosent matter how high end the piece is, it looks like casting all the time....this looks cheap to my eye.....besides this technique I have never seen in accurate, precise execution, always gaps...to speak frankly. so I soldered two half round wires in the slot, using some shaped Titanium as a wedge to hold them in place...was difficult. If the fuller goes behind the heft, it could weaken the tang.So extra attention to the tang is needed. I prefer on every hidden tang knife a wide tang(with true ferrules, there is no concern about the Handle material), because this is the point where a knife has to withstand the most leverage on construction. A T-shaped profile above the fuller and controlled selective heat treatment makes sure it will be cared for the good.