GandalftheGold

Didn't realize that was a thing. No reddish colour. It was so rusty I basically had to scour it to silver. It has more a seasoning you would find on a steel pan than a cast iron one. Won't be quite right but it will still work. I have used ones like that before at a camp and they work just fine. Aside from the crack through the middle.

Nah no sentimental value. I found it lying on the side of the road and can always use practice with brazing. So if it is too much of a hassle I will just toss it. I just went through all the trouble of cleaning the rust off and then noticed the crack after I had seasoned it.

Not technically a welding question but it sort of is. I have a skillet with a pretty large crack starting from the rim and going about four inches into the pan. I unfortunately do not have welding equipment, but have equipment for brazing. I know it can be brazed but my question is should it? I would rather not pay to have someone repair it via welding if I can do it myself with brazing.

That's how I usually get my boots and shoes. Job Lot buys a lot of overstocked or unsold items from other stores so they usually have my shoe size, which is between 13 and 15 depending on the type of shoe, or where it is made. I feel you on the whole odd size thing, I am a 14 1/2 but those don't really exist. My actual pant size is 33x37 but those don't really exist either, and if they do it was an accident.

Oh that is actually really cool. I was trying to figure out how it was supposed to fold in half, I see now that I'd doesn't. In my mind i had the 90* bends parallel to the ground not perpendicular. The one you made is quite pretty and is defenitly something i think i can make. I doubt mine will be as pretty, more industrial bushcraft I think. But it looks like a fun project. I would personally say it is collapsible but that is me just being nitpicky for little reason. I don't think i quite have enough square to do that but just maybe. I def have enough rebar but the square looks really nice.

Not a bad idea actually. I forgot leather stitching was that straight forward. It has been a bit since I last tried that. I have actually sewn inserts on sleeves before, i was just hoping to avoid that. Sort of reminds me of the shorts I have, I buy normal people pants, chop off the bottom of the legs and hem them up into shorts. I'll have to look into wrangler.

Are there any exceptionally tall smiths out there? If there are, which I hope there are, where do you buy your work clothes from? I am 6'7" with a 32 waist and 38 inch inseam. I have a very time trying to find regular clothes, finding work clothes is harder. Sometimes carheart caters to my tall and skinny frame but not always. I have looked through a lot of catalogs and usually the highest they go is a 36 inseam. I can keep wearing jeans but eventually im going to light myself on fire. It seems a lot of people wear tin lined pants, but most manufacturers of that again only go up to 36. Finding work shirts is also a problem. I am a large tall, which is hard to find to begin with. I can get away with an xl, but I swim in it which means its flopping around and I wouldn't notice if it flopped into the fire. The sleeves on an xl are also about two to fourn inches too short. And if I raise my arms there is a decent gap between my shirt and pants. The aprons I can find also seem to be kind of short for me. I have been wearing two, one folded and tied around my waist, and one worn normally. I am not trying to sound winey, just trying to see if anyone has these problems as well and mayhaps have a solution.

I defenitly latched onto the wrong part of this conversation but I absolutely loved Rothenberg. Probably one of my favorite places I have ever been in my life. I must have missed that particular kitchen though, or 18 year old me just wasn't paying attention. I had planned on making the outer ring of the cooking spiral, I cant really call it a trivet, just wider than the base of the largest pan I would use so the pan would never actually touch the rivets. I do really like the idea of upsetting the piece into a partially punched hole. I originally planned to use two pieces of steel as cross bars on the underside that the feet would be threaded through before being riveted to add rigidity. But I may just put a fifth leg in the dead center using the method you mentioned. What worries me with just the three feet over the fire is I would definitely knock it over and loose whatever I am cooking. Been there done that and upset a lot of campers. Oh wait, if you were saying it would rock because the four feet wouldn't make even contact with the ground, i always have and will always continue to have my first step of setting up a cooking grate be to give it a few good solid thwacks with a log to sink the feet down and give a nice stable base. Hence the need for cross bars.

I meant two halves of a circle.

I'm pretty sure I get what you mean with the collar, Just a thin flat bar or thin stock wrapped around the sides of the pieces being held together. But as it is rather early I am having trouble envisioning how that would allow it to fold. Although I'm thinking about this with four collars but if you were saying two I can sort of envision it kind of. If I had square stock that didn't require an hour drive to go get I would totally do that. I have one long ish piece but I'm not sure if it will be quite long enough, Ill go measure it in a bit to see what can be done. Rolling the rebar may take forever, but It seems like a fun waste of time. I also really need practice with punching, the last time I did it I really screwed up what I was working on. I'm pretty sure I used a center punch by accident. I didn't really know what I was doing, I still don't, but I at least know the difference between all my punches now. I think it all just came together in my head. Were you saying use the square stock to make two halves of a square/ rectangle then 90 degree bend those ends outward and collar them together? I totally see how that can fold.

Those look really cool. I look forward to seeing that video. I have personally never tried forge welding yet but on the list it is.

My current plan, which Ill try today if the rain lets up, was to take a six ish foot piece of rebar and roll it on itself leaving about an inch to two inches, I haven't decided yet, between the pieces of metal, punch four quarter inch holes on the outside and possibly a fifth dead center, take the small 12 inch rebar pieces I have draw out the ends thread them through the holes then upset the drawn out portion to basically rivet it in place. I'm pretty sure that isn't a trivet which is why I had used the prefix basically. If the upsetting doesn't work I was going to try a method of fixing I saw in a book which is to force the cold piece you want fixed into the cherry red hole and let it cool down, theoretically as it cools it should shrink and grip the rebar, especially with all the rough texture marks rebar is covered with. I'm sure you all know what that is, I just cant remember what it is called off the top of my head. I would like to one day make an actual set of trivets which will first require reading the section in two of my books, and watching a bunch of videos.

I was able to fit two discs onto one of the sheets I have, one for the fire, one for the stove. I was going to make a cooking grate kinda thing for it to be used on the fire as well. Pretty much a spiral trivet with longer pegs, probably not the best way but it is the way I want to try. If nothing else I get a sort of trivet out of it. This also probably isn't the best Idea but for the handle of the fire one I have some old tent poles from my godfathers military tent, basically just steel tubes. It probably wont quite be strong enough but we shall see. I figure if I already have them, why go buy something else if what I have might just work. I have burned my arm hair off cooking on the fire way to many times so I want the longest handle I can possibly make without it being too ridiculous. I also learned my lesson about thinning the sides. That was the main reason the first one had so many issues. That and I whaled on it excessively for like no reason, got a wee bit carried away.

Then I had tried raising not sinking. Trust me, I learned my lesson on cleaning up the burs. When I made the ones out of roasting pans, about 1/16th sheet, I cut it out with tinsnips and forgot to file off the burrs. Most of my 20 some odd nicks and cuts have finally healed up, I still have about five to go. I do have many a log lying around so I may as well try sinking sometime too. I have special, depth perception, and fine motor skill issues galore so unfortunately I could try to true up that circle as much as I want from the beginning and I will never get it, unless I find something to use as a guide that isn't my eyes and wont be destroyed by a grinder or get in the way of a jig saw. From my past experiences no amount of scoring or drawing lines really helps me stay on track. I am that guy that cuts a wavy line using a circular saw no matter how hard I try not to. I have even used the circular saws with the laser guides and still managed to make my cuts look like rolling hills. I should at least be able to line up the inner score marks for the shrinking process but I doubt the outer line that I cut will actually be circular, but it will be close as I can get it. I was going to even the outsides up after the sides had all been raised up, or shrunk I guess. Whatever happens with it I will make due. Sadly I have had a little trouble finding sheet steel. The dealer I have been using usually only has 1/16 or thinner in stock in drops, their cutting prices are pretty ridiculous for sheets. And the only scrap place who has bothered to call me back or be open during their posted hours only has 3/16ths. At least it will make one heavy beast of a pan.

So I was able to watch the video the other day, but I finally had the time to sit down and write this. I think that video was great. I didn't really notice any editing issues, I may have just been to focused on the iron. I honestly didn't realize you had a channel, which is my own fault for not paying attention. I guess I found a bunch of videos I need to watch. I had definitely tried a different method on the three pans I have tried thus far. I, forgive me if I mess up the terminology, tried the sinking method vs what you showed which I think is raising? Or is it folding? Either way I was definitely doing this wrong and really appreciate that you made a video about this. I had been treating the ripples like the plague, completely freaking out whenever one popped up on the rim. I had no idea the whole reason the ripples pop up is uneven dispersal, which I really should have noticed, that needs to be worked out. From what you showed, I can definitely see that if one tries sinking, and does it correctly unlike myself with proper spacing and strength of blows, the sides should all evenly slip together. But the way you showed working with the ripples to evenly distribute the material makes a lot of sense and kinda brought the whole thing together. I actually saw what was happening and it made the whole debacle make a lot more sense. I also agree with some of the youtube commenters on your double cam angles. It gives a unique perspective that really helps one see exactly what is happening in each blow. And from what you showed with this I actually think I may be able to salvage that first pan I tried. Ill have to flip it inside out but It should still work just fine. Im also pretty excited because I can use what you showed to make a whole slue of things, granted I learned anything from your video. Drip pans, small candle holders, cooking pots, simmer pots, bowls, I’m quite excited to see what, if anything, I can do with this. I know rr track anvils are pretty bad, but the track pretty much fell in my lap so it’s what I am using. I did however leave the last couple inches of the end of mine still rounded off so It should actually work pretty well for this one thing. I have another three or four feet of track so I may make an actually bowl making apparatus out of a piece of it.