C-1ToolSteel

I'm not a machinist, and you probably thought of this already... For the round swages, you could use a piece of steel (twice the width needed for one swage) and drill holes in the middle. Then split the piece in half through the center of each hole. Now you have two swages in the same amount of work.

Well, If the customer thinks it's perfect, it's perfect!

All fantastic work. I LOVE that hatchet!! The Kukri knife is cool, too. If you had made the horse head into an actual D guard though, it would seem more like a feature and less like a cumbersome poky-outy thing to me. Still cool, though!

Very impressive! Looks great. I'll look forward to seeing the finished product and the rebound.

Yes, very nice anvil in deed! Still in beautiful condition with a couple little chips just to prove she's been around the block. I'd say it should serve you well for a few more centuries...

That anvil looks like it has never been hammered on!

Even though it is traditional to have some tongs and a hammer or two hanging from the stump, I have found that I like to keep hardy tools on the stump, and everything else on a nearby wall or table. Gotta bend over for everything, you can't stand as close to the anvil, and you get tempted to pick tongs up by the jaws... It looks cool, though, and If it works for you, it's good.

Yes, I wouldn't do a full inch. My 150 lb Hay Budden has a 7/8" hole that is plenty big.

Anvils In America, page 417:

Columbians are great quality cast steel anvils. Whether or not it's worth $150 though is your decision. I don't think it's a bad price, but again, how badly do you want a 44 lb anvil? It's kind of a weird size where it is almost too smal for blacksmithing, and really big for jewelry. Not that it couldn't do both, though. And to a collector, if it's rare, it could be worth an insane amount to them.

I would wait for someone more knowledgeable to chime in, but since you haven't gotten any suggestions, here's my best guess... Could be a Columbian. They were first made in Cleveland Ohio and later imported from Sweden. I don't think it is a Swedish make, but if it's an earlier Columbian, It's a really nice anvil. USA Columbians usually had a triangle with a "C" in the middle on one side, and some random letter somewhere on the other side. The triangle "C" logo would have been in that place (second picture from bottom) on the side where it looks like somebody milled it out. Why did they mill it out? Your guess is as good as mine. The "P" on the other side is suprising to me, because it is a depression instead of a raised letter like all the Columbians I remember seeing. Anyway, Columbian or not, If it has good ring and rebound, it is a good anvil. She's pretty, for sure. BTW, whoever welded on the edge to make it sharp shouldn't have, and didn't know what he was doing!!

Wilkinson is a high quality English anvil. If it's in good shape, (and passes ring and rebound test) it will serve you well.

Your anvil is a Trenton made for Shapleigh Hardware Co. Serial # puts it around 1910 according to AIA. Trentons are very high qualtity anvils!

On the list.

Except the ones where you smell cat...evidence..first thing when you walk in, and the guy at the cluttered counter says "Yeah, (cough, cough) we've got a little bit of everything...". Those usually have everything BUT what I am looking for.

All very nice. I especially love that Bowie.

You did a sweet job on that. Likin' the name, 'lil shaver.

Correct. Most of the Swedish steel around here isn't that great...

Around here I wouldn't say most common, but least rare is probably Peter Wright, Mous Hole, and Hay Budden. Oh, and maybe Trenton.

Correct. I should have specified.

Thanks guys.

Well, I bought it brand new on eBay, so not quite sure how that would work. Good news is it's working fine this morning. I'll just see if it stays that way...

So I accidentally left my Dewalt 20v max impact driver outdoors, last night. It was under a shelter, so it shouldn't have gotten wetter than just normal Tennessee dew. It was cold, though, too (high 20s or low 30s Fahrenheit). I brought it in this morning, and didn't notice any problems until tonight when I picked it up. It is supposed to be slow on the "1" setting, fast on the "2" setting and even faster on the "3" setting. Right now, though, it is sometimes very fast, sometimes slow (as it should be) on the "1" setting. The "2" setting is slow like the "1" setting should be, and the "3" setting is normal. Tried a different batterrie, and same thing. I know this isn't the best place to post questions about power tools, but I just wanna see if any of y'all have any suggestions. Thanks in advance!

Well thankya.

A shorter neck and it would look very similar to a weissenborn guitar: To make a standard dreadnought or folk guitar look right, you need to have very sharp, almost 90 degree transitions from body to neck. It is also easy to make the waist to thin and a bunch of other things that make guitars very difficult (and sometimes frustrating) to replicate. Looking forward to what else you guys come up with. Weissenborn guitar: