Daswulf

Very nice.

Thanks John, I've made some knife shaped objects before so I have a little experience with files, sandpaper and sanding blocks. It's been a while since I've put this much into something that each next step had my cringing a little. Thanks C-1. wanting to make blades was what got me interested in forging. I found that forging opened up so much more then a pin point interest for me, and now after having my setup for 3 years, I've made a second knife. Robert, now I have to make my first sheath.

Belts everywhere! What a cool shop.

Aus, it wasn't as bad welding the cable as I though it might be. Just have to do the right steps, keep it tight and fluxed. JME, I did not. That's a good point. I will be doing that tonight.

This is my second "real" knife. it's from 1 1/4" gaswell crane cable forge welded. 10" overall length ( again, Thanks Bearded Guy for the gift of the cable and some insight into working it.) All I know is it spark tested as High carbon so this was an experiment that turned out well except for an inclusion that showed itself in the tempering ( a forge welding problem I'm guessing). Etched in 5% apple cider vinegar at +- 150 degrees F for a while (all I had), then sanded wet with 2000 grit. handle is oak, stained with chestnut stain and several applications of linseed oil with 1/8" brass pins. dunno what else to say but I'm happy with the end result. It feels great in my hand. I learned some things along the way. #1 re-read about knife making step by step. #2 practice the forge welding. #3 have a plan for a knife shape/design. #4 don't mess up good handle material like an idiot.( Poor lacewood.) There's more..... I don't plan to specialize in knives but hey, they can be fun. I know I will make more here and there. what else? oh yeah have a belt grinder lol. Man, files and blocking sandpaper are killers. I did make a grinding jig for the bevels that I learned about from Steve's book but they might be a bit beefy compared to what they should be, but it helped. Yeah, I need to re-read that book before the next attempt.

That's a beauty of a utility knife Templehound. The sheath is very nice.

Lol Frosty, I was talkin about Bearded Guys grinder. I would love to come visit some time if I could. I'm planning a world trip to visit blacksmiths around the world. Just as soon as I hit big on the lottery. Now, to start playing the lottery.

Nice looking flower. I like the wood mount. The torch comes in handy with peining the flowers on. I use it on my roses. It does take practice and keeping an eye out that you don't get the petals too hot.

Sounds awesome. I bet it's a nice place. How much split fire wood was left there? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_BxCmG5sG6A So.. have any pictures of the shop?

selling point ( hype) on the wrought iron? I have a Trenton that the only identifying mark was the lower half to the diamond. wasnt worried about it since it is a good anvil. cool to know tho.

But I like doing things the hard way. I will have to come check that guy out sometime.

Yup Make a tool to suit the need you have. Forge one out! haha Knofebish.......forget the rebar for knives... Atleast read up in the knife making section and try with some coil or leaf spring steel. Something worth the effort.

Nice work on the Nice looking tongs!

Well played Brian.

Well, I started shaping some blades, tried out and bought an anvil for a friend that is serious about starting out ( it's a no name 100# cast steel that feels and sounds like a vulcan but it will work and the price is right.) Made him a hot cut hardy to fit the hardy hole, shaped one cable welded blade some more (Thanks again Bearded Guy) and heated and hardened it. it is in the oven now tempering. And talked with the friend working on my website. Now I wind down and deal with the work week ahead.....

Lump charcoal would be the way to go. Most big home improvements carry it, but you could burn down wood to get the coals you need as well, if not even build a charcoal retort. I had built a 55 gallon drum to make charcoal but only had used it once, then found a source for coal. Yes please direct them here and tell them to pack a lunch since there is a Lot of good info here to read through.

Thanks for sharing. I'm sure that will help someone out in the future.

That turned out great Brian. It was some good fun and I'm glad to share what I know. Maybe next time your over we can make some dagger bottle openers. Hmm.. Don't know if I ever posted those.

ASO. anvil shaped object. It looks like a cast iron part of an old anvil vise combination and not good for forging on. you could use the horn part for small stuff. keep looking and when you get a fire going use that rail on end as an anvil.

Really cool Theo! it's sort of funny that they are legos, with the blue under the wrap looks at first glance to be gemstones or something Man would a nicely laid out feather look great in one of those handles.

Mitch, one day at work I needed an 18mm crows foot line wrench to replace a power steering line on a vehicle. The " reputable" tool dealer didn't have one on the truck. ( and I had one at home! ) but it was a rush job so I went to harbor freight. They Had crows foot line wrenches. But no 18mm! They skipped it and only had off the wall sizes when that One is common. Ugh! I bought both metric and sae sets. I was despirate. Nothing worked so I ground the closest size under with a 3inch cut off wheel to fit and got the job done. Moral of the story is sure, some tools at harbor freight are great while others will only get you by if they can be modified to work with knowledge or some just don't do the job right. It takes knowledge or experience to know that too. But you know that since you are learning and doing your research. Good luck on your build. Sorry I can't help on that one with zero experience with gas forges. Just tossing out some experiences and hope it helps. I'll keep watching tho.

Cleaning the edges a bit is ok. it Is Your anvil. And you need it to do what you need. I just hate hearing of people grinding on the faces of anvils.

Don't do much at all to the face of the anvil. The steel plates they used on older anvils are generally not thick and you would be taking usable life away from it. Best way to clean the face of an anvil is to just hammer hot steel on it.

Wrought iron with a steel face plate. Wire wheel it good and dust with flour. It will remain more in any indents and give better visibility of any stampings. Whats the rebound like on it?

In general and in the automotive field I have bought 2 larger tap and die sets that have worked well for me. One is Vermont America, and the other is an Irwin set. I like both. I am also no machinist so there are probably better ones out there. I have used both sets quite a bit. Just hope you don't have to buy the broken tap extractor set it's expensive.