arftist

I approve of the last three posts. Cedar, many times it is a purchase of opportunity. Buy it now for pennies or wait till you need it and spend big bucks on it. If bought well enough, it can be easily resold if not needed.

There is a pretty solid theory that aluminium deposits are common in the brains of Alzheimer's patients. My father died from it, very uncool. Copper is very easy to dish, bronze not much harder. Brass on the other hand requires genuine skill, experience and knowledge.

Believe it or not the geometry gets a lot simpler if you straighten the spring. It is best done cold with a large press. Any decent spring shop should be able to help.

A set of powered bending rolls is the go to for straightening...even a tire roller will work but the hand cranking will steal your time and energy savings. I have also found that a lot of old silo or tank rings are wrought iron. As to Charle's comment, afraid I have to enthusiastically agree. Straightening stock on a gently swayed anvil is by far the fastest hand method.

Even I have posted pictures here and no one is more computer illiterate than I am.

Some Hay Burdens are one piece uppers.

Good junkyard can test....

Forge steel bars to fit across the feet, then lag the bars into the endgrain. It is plenty strong that way.

Pretty poor snagging for a Brooks no?

Brazing is good for all but very high temp parts such as grates in a coal stove. In areas of high heat, nickel is better.

Looks like a cast iron fake. Hope you didn't pay much.

I have completely reverted to old fashioned helmets. All of the electric ones eventually break and if it breaks in the field you are in trouble.

I too believe a BIG perimeter weld would be sufficient, however, I would buy 50# of 110-18 and try to size the vee to use most of the box.

Sky, while there is lots of hot work done in twisters, the ideal is too twist cold, if possible. The reason for cold twisting aside from economy of fuel and time is the consistency of temperature across the bar. My old free from the dump Beaver pipe threader would twist 3/4" square steel bar cold. When I tried to twist s.s. 11/16" the torque was insufficient. In the end I incorporated the uneven twisting into design elements in the rail but there were a few anxious days while I developed even that process. The idea of addition torch heating and cooling while twisting didn't work well at the speed of pipe threading. It happened too fast. Hence my impetus to build a unit to twist 1 1/4" inch cold. (Which can twist much larger hot, my biggest twist so far is 1 3/4" cold finished square.

Very ambitious. I built mine to twist 1 1/4" cold. I used an old pipe threader connected to a very large 10-1 gear reducer. As Thomas said, that kind of torque is dangerous. Thomas; I would posit that 36 K is a minimum.

You might be looking at the seam where it was welded together. If it is cracking it is an easy fix. Grind out all the damage and weld it with an electric welder. No special rod needed, use whatever you are good at.

Seems very slow in your video for a 25.

1070 is a pretty good steel for digging tools, hard enough to wear for a while, strong enough to handle some rocks. The idea that mild steel is sufficient is incorrect unless you just like making tools.

Adjustable pressure regulator.

Thanks for the clearer explanation Frosty.

You tube might be hurting more than helping you, lots of garbage. If you don't know how to-do it right, how will you know if the you tuber knows? Anyhow, this is how I do free hand scrolls. Forget the horn, work over the far edge. Stick your iron over the side and hold the bar flat on the face. Cold. Hammer off the anvil. This will cause a bend to occur. As the iron bends slide it out and keep hammering off the anvil. Soon the curve will reach the side of the anvil. Now flip the bar over 180 degrees. Hit the end of the bar in mid air to tighten your curve if desired or not. This is where a drawing or sample is helpful. The rest of the scroll is then bent in the same manner, holding the straight Section flat on the anvil face and hammering where ever needed to bend the curve. If this is not clear let me know and I will try to explain it better. The scroll is defined as "an ever increasing spiral". As long as your spiral is ever increasing, the only mistake you can make is having flat spots. Flat spots are best fixed with a scrolling wrench, fork and or tongs. Some folks bend then with wrenches but that is monotonous to me. Thick metal scrolls must be worked hot. When more than a few scrolls are needed one may make a scroll mold for good accurate and repeatable scrolls. Different subject though. Clear as mud?

Ya think? 10 HP @220 volts is 42 amp draw.

6063 forges well enough.

matei; you don't use the cutting table? Is that because you only have anvils without cutting tables? I routinely use the cutting table for many things, from starting a fold to reducing the size of a pipe and many other operations as well.

Interesting that other methods were mentioned, but that is our way. Edge bending is best done two ways. One way involves a $12,000. machine and $1000 in special dies. The other way is hammering the outside edge. As Frosty mentioned, 1/4 is way easier, I wouldn't bother using 1/8", too much effort. Whenever I have to make curved hinges I always hammer the edge. Twisting, curling and warping are dealt with, corrected on the anvil while hammering in the curve; once you get practice at it, it should come off the anvil flat. It is remarkably easy to correct and do an accurate job.