arftist

When I saw dream press I thought yes, 100 hp would be fine but so is 50hp. You don't need a very long stroke so ideal would be something around 8" diameter with up to 12 inch stroke. Your frame engineering would have to be robust. A friend made a hundred ton press from large H beams. Welding is also critical, if you are not good hire a pro. As to too much power, you need to use judgement with any tool. Even with your power supply I would expect to spend several thousand on construction for a safe I press of that magnitude.

A 5 would replace a striker if you ever use one. It also will hit silent if that matters. There is no noise from a fly press. The real deal though, if you are willing to make tools is some very accurate work, with ease. One example is I made a grill with half inch square bar passing through half inch square bar, both on the diagonal. I had to upset each female intersection to make it look right. Tough to do on an anvil. Doing hot work greatly increases a fly press capacity. I did a lot of work on a #1 before I found a 5 for sale. Now I just use the #1 for small punches in bronze or other soft metals. It was a jewelry tool originally.

Wood chisel

It is a cold chisel. Came with a sledge handle. One holds the chisel against the work while another strikes it with a sledge.

JHCC DuPont linkage.

Weld it up and you got a good deal; Larger post vises are going for huge bucks these days. Just make sure you get a price on the welding job, some people think their work is priceless. I would charge about fifty bucks to fix that as long as I didn't have to make any parts. This is what I get for not using the quote feature. My response is to the op. Marc Baldwin, I believe that box is cast iron. Could be wrong of course. Steel is unlikely though.

I did just think of a problem with the lead sandwich. Lead has zero elasticity. Eventually the lead will be forced out the sides. Suggest you weld flat bar across the seams.

Yup, the old soft hammer for the beginner trick.

Frosty mine is a spring helve. The tup's true path is slightly elliptical with the lifting motion occuring as the tup is thrust upward...and forward. The motion is perpendicular to the motion of your LG.

One of the problems with an unsecured hammer is that the tup or hammer itself can lift the entire hammer (slightly) on the upstroke. Mine, at 75# would walk towards you as you worked it. I solved this by bolting it down to a 6 inch commercial floor, with no apparent problems. My son is using it now and poured an 18 x 30 by 48 block for it, he say it works very well. Try the weight you have, chance are it will work good enough.

Start by reading the whole forum,

Formerly known as an "old man", a very nice, adjustable bench lock down as has been mentioned.

I would add that trying to rush art usually results in something being left that would have been changed. I agree 100% with Glenn as to design of a sheperd's hook except that I would use no additional hooks. FYI hammer skills are very important but are entirely different than design skills. I think what you are complaining about is your design abilities more than your blacksmith skills.

I can bend 1/4x1/2 with my fingers. When you add the leverage of a door...

I cut a keyway in the upper mount in the center (farthest from the door. I then fashion a pin (usually an allen head cap srew). In the down position the pin locks the bolt down. To open one must swing the bolt to align the pin with the keyway and lift, then lock it open by swinging the cane handle against the door. This is a pretty simple solution for me.

What size is your stock? Small bars cool much faster, What size is your hammer? Too small hammers don't input much movement or heating energy. How large is your anvil? Small anvils don't reflect much energy. How well attached is your anvil? Loose anvils don't move much metal. How hard are you swinging your hammer? Light blows don't move much metal. How dark is your forging area? Forging areas should be dark to better judge the heat. Out in the sun doesn't work well at all.

Take it to the welding supply and see if they will accept it in trade for an argon or oxygen if it is an owner size.

You don't need to heat more than a few inches at a time. For me it is easier to make a nice curve incrementally. I wouldn't bother with the emt bender, instead make a jig with a pipe or solid round slice. Weld a stop Start your bend with either forge but finish it with the torch, easing the heat ahead while allowing the already bent part to cool, so it stays put. A large hammer is very helpful.

Larger diameters are less likely to be junk.

There are 1000s of different certs. Around here a test is administered by an engineering firm. There is no way to know what cert you may (likely not) need. Certs only last for 6 months and unless you can provide proof that you have been employed using that exact cert during that time, then you must be recertified ( pay the at least $350) per cert. That you don't know any of this suggests you should get a job welding for a while. There is no end to the danger an unqualified welder can wreak upon innocent lives. Many good sized shops will help you get certified in the processes they use. That is honestly your best bet. FYI, the fellows I have seen who got certified on their own spent many months practicing every day, hour after hour.

Arkie, things like the acorn table, Bridgeport, lathe etc. are the hardest to store and the most expensive to replace. I am going to do my best though, thanks for the encouragement.

Your slide area looks way too short. You want at least 10 inches.

I remember my buddy drove up to Athol and came back with the biggest vise Starret sold at the time. It was huge, unbelievably heavy and very well made. He was a trust funder.

A search of the site will turn up much more than I feel like typing. Note that scale is oxidation and stainless is also known as non-ox or in-ox so no, there is generally no scale to speak of but in the case of highly polished S.S. colors of oxidation can be observed as well as utilized for decorative affect. A thoroughly forged pieced will resemble mild steel and also could be a nice effect. Tip; stainless is best worked at near white heat.

I come from a rather unique area but; I apprenticed under a blacksmith in a small town with 3 other working smiths, then schooled with another full time Smith a couple towns away. At that time there were at least 4 others in a 15 town or so area. I myself have practiced for 37 years now but am slowing down greatly to declining health. My son, who is fairly well trained is moving on to other pastures. I am hoping to be able to preserve all my equipment in case he desires to return to the art someday.