arftist

You want to squish 2× 2 1/2 He was squishing 3/8 ×3 the easy way. No comparison.

Repair the vise, obviously keep the cold saw, go up a motor size on the band saw and keep it too. Band saw is great for field work.

Big difference between what you said you wanted to do and what he was doing.

Tough one. Unless you replace the bottom thread too, you need the exact thread. My plan would be to bore out both from the back, then turn down two acme coupling nuts to round on the outside, but leave a .250 " shoulder at one end. Make a very light interference fit, cool the parts with dry ice and press them in from the back. For this much work it should be economical enough to hire. A good machine shop will ALWAYS price the work in advance, if not, go elsewhere.

Is the regulator adjustable? Did you contact the maker? My big gasser (Johnson) works best running off 2 100# tanks.

Mechanical hammers are cheaper to build unless you already have massive air supply. Mechanical hammers are much more efficient than air unless you buy self contained hammer. Self contained hammer is much too complicated than most home builders can handle. This question has been asked and answered here many times, search for more details. Tire hammers, the tire is just a simple but IMHO poor clutch. Spring helve hammers are simple to build, hit hard and are easier to tune. As to the last of your ideals, if your hammer is big enough to weld up a 2.5 inch billet, it is certainly going to require a big foundation. I would want a 100 pounds or so. On the other hand, a more right sized billet could be welded with a much smaller hammer. As to your press ideas, you are way off in your estimations. More like minimum 10 horse electric. The die must move fast as the work quickly cools as soon as it contacts. Instead of recycling incorrect parts consider cheaper sources or forget the plan and just use the hammer. FYI many folks are doing Damascus welding in a properly sized press.

In theory practice and theory are the same. In practice they are not. Mainely Bob The difference in velocity between 172.5 bpm and 475 bpm is almost is almost 3-1 regardless. Then when you cut the stroke in half you again diminish the velocity by almost half. Just for discussion sake. FYI 1.5 hp is plenty for you to run a 30 at full stroke and speed. One thing you may not be aware of. When working heavy stock one needs to hit hard enough to move more than just the surface. Otherwise piping, fishmouthing, cold shuts and other issues can occur, so no, the same amount of work is not necessarily done. The other difference between hand forging and power forging is that a properly striking hammer will keep the work hot. So much energy should go into the work that the work is heated, which greatly increases the amount of work one cab perform in a given time. My master has demonstrated making a 3 " ball in a single heat. Since the joy is in the journey, carry on merrily. At my age it is more important to me to build a machine which fires right out of the gate, so I researched until I found all the known knowns and utilized them in my hammer build. I see that you are on a different path, to each his own and more power to you.

Well, it will reduce the acceleration of your tup by almost half. Since force is crudely acceleration squared x mass and since you are running your hammer very slowly it will strike with very little force. 25 pound hammers usually run at 400-475 bpm. Even my 75 # runs at 220 and should be faster.

Why did you go with a 2 inch crank offset? 3.5 is what most hammers use. Marcus B, your anvil isn't hollow and has at least a 20 to one anvil to tup ratio.

Looks like there is something funky about the Pittman arm to spring connection. Can you post a close up photo?

No reason to tear it down. It looks small in the pictures, probably a Morse taper #3 could be a two. Mount the motor to the floor next to the large vee belt pulley. This will require bolting the drill press to the floor too and is the simplest most common way. You could alternatively make a bracket on the floor, bolted to the drill press if you don't want to bolt the whole machine down. 2 phase 220 motors run fine on "single phase" 220. If you think about it, the only single phase is 110. 2 phases of 110 give 220. Alternatively it would also run on 2 legs of 3 phase.

Switch to 10-32 1/4 -28 would be even better. Use gun style raps Go up a size on your tap drill Drill your tap hole twice as deep. Drive your tap in only half as far. Use only taper taps. Use Tap Free or other high performance tapping lube. Realise that you may only be able to tap 10 or 12 holes before the tap is dull.

3.5 inch crank offsett for a 7" stroke. An inch of free space between the dies is good minimum but you should have enough adjustment for tools as well.

Under $3 /lb is a fair price if it is in decent shape. FYI chipped edges on a Peter Wright is fairly meaningless since they have extra hard top plates. I would be much more concerned with delamination of the top plate. To the OP, a little sway is a good thing IMHO.

Things that are a given; Round wheels work best. Fire is hot. Hollow anvils are a joke. Same with hammers. Static load engineering is USELESS when working with dynamic loading. The simple fact is that your useless anvil post can be simply remedied. Determine what combination of flat bars (thickness) will fill the spaces between your H beam flanges. Acquire them. Weld into place. Why put so much effort into making junk?

Non-magnetic stainless would make a dive knife useless for anything but stabbing sharks. I would want a knife that can cut.

To be clear, the shaper Biggun Dr is talking about is not a cabinet mount machine like the collector are all drooling over these days, but rather a massive cast iron machine, heavier than a Bridgeport and requiring every bit as much space. If there can be only one, choose the mill. Edit, I once bought a 24" shaper for $25. I backed my truck up to it and took the vise and left the 10,000 plus pound shaper for the scrap guys.

Not even about RPMs though that is critical as well...the big issue is lack of rigidity. Cold saws are massive castings not pressed sheet metal. Cold saws blades cannot bend while cutting, they break. NOTHING wrong with a large abrasive saw. Use it for what it is designed for; hardened tool steels and thin walled material which should never go in a band saw.

The first thing you should forge is some iron straps to replace the "plumbers tape". To find the delaminated part of the faceplate, sprinkle sand on the top. The sand will not bounce in the afflicted area when the anvil is lightly hammered on.

I disagree that welding any anvil will improve it...except an already hopeless case. Especially just to build up edges.

Research tilt up concrete walls. Way efficient. Your bags will each hold over a yard of concrete, no economy there.

Arkie it would only be a straight line if the surface was straight.

Tell that to everyone who has an upsetting vise, bolt heading vise or foot operated vise.

This is the answer right here. Collected anvil are in safe storage. Considering the number of anvils which have been sold to junkyard, shipped to China and come back as can openers, collector's are doing us a service.

Anvil, that is a pile of round bar. Everyone agrees, round to square then back to round. This discussion however, is about square bar.