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I Forge Iron

arftist

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Everything posted by arftist

  1. Unmentioned benefits of a fly press It eliminates the need for a striker. It can hold a large variety of easy to make tooling. Totally silent. Energy efficient The table can hold jigs or fences etc., enabling very precise work.
  2. I would use oil to prolong the lifespan of your bearing material.
  3. Cold forging on any anvil is a bad plan. If you must do this, buy a chunk of steel instead of throwing good money after bad.
  4. Way easier faster and healthier to forge rather than grind. Make a blacksmith's taper gauge, exactly as drawn in the second post. Use it to check the angle as you hand forge the pickets. I use adjustable gauges that I make myself but for such a small job I would just weld 3 bits of steel together. Also, best not to learn hammer and tong control at the same time. Stock long enough to hold by hand.
  5. Resistance to forming would be the big issue. Instead, cut out an appropriate shape and use it as a welded in bit. You will not be able to sharpen it with a file in the field but your edge will stay sharp for a long time.
  6. 304-316 is best worked at near white heat.
  7. It isn't cast iron. 7018 Will work fine, 6010 will work but not as easy as 7018.
  8. What was he doing that you felt was unsafe with a flap wheel?
  9. JY; that is why a heating torch should be constantly moving.
  10. Induction coils can be customized to very precise small heats and much faster than a torch.
  11. Main selling point is that they are not made from grey cast iron but rather they are made from ductile iron. I will leave it you to figure out the difference. The second selling point is the fully enclosed screw. Both point lead to better longevity and indeed they are the best and most expensive vises on the market.
  12. Ashman; you need to send all the flux off but it is not needed to get all the solder off. I would sand till you can see some brass through the solder.
  13. Most chucks can be removed by a pair of wedges which can be purchased from a machinery supplier.
  14. Using a drill press mount work securely. Drill 1/64" underside hole. Ream. You may find acceptable results from simply using a new drill bit.
  15. Or have one of your grandchildren proof read for You. You don't think the compressive force of impact is involved in anvil sway?
  16. Actually small angle can be bed frame which is mostly med-high carbon.
  17. This is a good example of why reinventing the wheel is a waste of time for most people. For the best possible geometry the spring should lie flat...the rollers can be much tighter and the possibility of flinging the hammer out of the guide is nil.
  18. I have seen something very similar, maybe Basher?
  19. 2nd everything Marc said. I just picked up a Lincoln Square Wave 200. It runs on 110 or 220. It will weld bronze all day long, so I know it will weld aluminum (preheat required for thicker sections.) It is unlikely that I will ever use the 110 cord unless I have to do a small stainless repair in a commercial kitchen or something else requiring very little amps.
  20. Cut to the chase and change it to a flat belt. While you are at it, eliminate the speed reducer, it is way too slow to do any work at all. 350-400 blows per minute. I would also rearrange the geometry of the entire top of the hammer, balance out the spring so it has a chance to whip. The spring should come near the bottom of the stroke and still have 1-2" of free space between the dies.
  21. You are not going to get parallel side or even close in this manner.
  22. EDL, I did explain it and I stand by it still. Not the same. I can't force you to understand.
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