billyO

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About billyO

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    Senior Member

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Eatonville, Washington
  • Interests
    as always
    peace and love

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  1. billyO

    Raindrop pattern welded billet

    Finding a smith with either a power hammer with big flat dies or a hydraulic press will only make the drops larger, but should keep the round shape.
  2. billyO

    Raindrop pattern welded billet

    Perhaps you can find a smith who has a rolling mill who'd be willing to reshape the bar?
  3. billyO

    Andromeda Galaxy Astrophotography

    You aren't kidding. Are you familiar with the DECaLS Browser at legacysurvey.org/viewer? There may be some interesting images at RA= 186.7278, Dec= 8.9373. Zoom to 10 arcmin and you'll have a number of galaxies to choose from, including 4 merging towards the top right Another website you may find useful is zooniverse.org (https://www.zooniverse.org/projects/zookeeper/galaxy-zoo/) where you get b/w pictures of galaxies in low resolution to classify and after you give your classification, you can then get a link to the image in the DECaLS browser that gives better, color images of what it looks like.
  4. billyO

    Andromeda Galaxy Astrophotography

    wow thank you
  5. billyO

    Memo from Santa

    Saw this on another forum:
  6. I wonder if it depends on what year of penny is thrown in. IIRC, pennies were 95% copper until 1984 when they changed to 2% copper.
  7. I'm not 100% sure, but I think the issue is the copper. I spilled some in my forge a couple of years ago and had difficulty welding up damascus billets until I re-cast the floor of the forge.
  8. billyO

    Chef's Knife - Hand Forged 52100

    That is a pretty knife!
  9. Nice ram's head, John. It looks comfortable in the hand. It actually looks more comfortable than the ram's head I forged for my Dodge's stick shift.
  10. You can get just as nice nicks with a very small radius. Depending on the size of stock you're typically using, I'd round off the edges in a taper from ~m 0.5cm radius at the horn edge down to close to square at the heel, but without any sharp corners. You can put the almost square portion somewhere between the feet of the anvil for the most stability if needed. But again, depending on the size of stock you're using a 107kg anvil will be a huge increase in stability over your 85kg. If you really need/want a sharp corner for any reason, you can fix that with a square chisel. as always peace and love billyO
  11. Hello all. I can't take credit for these, they came out of Darryl Nelson's forge a number of years ago, but I just got these re-installed in my new stone chimney and thought they could be used as inspiration to someone someday. as always peace and love billyO
  12. billyO

    Railroad spike Shoehorn

    Looks good, PVF. Did you use a swedge block for final shaping?
  13. If you're looking for opinions, I'd keep working on it for practice in grinding, putting on the WA handle and then using it to test your heat treating. I've got a little blade that I did my first twist pattern on and didn't do a good enough job keeping the twists from giving me cold shuts. It sat on my desk for a couple of years. I decided to use it to practice my sheath making and started using it hard this past summer during my remodel, cutting everything from insulation to sheetrock, and aside from the cold shut in the blade, it's turned out to be what I consider the perfect knife for this job, and it's become my EDC knife. as always peace and love billyO
  14. billyO

    How to store etching acid?

    I use a piece of 3" dia black ABS with a threaded top that I also use to dunk my blades in. So far 3+ years without any leaking. Also, you should be able to buy ferric chloride to avoid having to do the work changing it yourself. I got mine from Radio Shack when they still had box stores, and it's sold as PCB etchant.