• Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About billyO

  • Rank
    Senior Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Eatonville, Washington
  • Interests
    as always
    peace and love

Recent Profile Visitors

4,771 profile views
  1. When doing my damascus, I use an angle grinder to remove most of the scale before cutting and stacking, only using the belt grinder to smooth out the pieces. I also do most of mine without flux. I use vinegar after my final forging of my damascus before grinding. It usually takes a day or so, however. Like templehound and Steve said, watering the anvil helps and staying on top of the scale with the wire brush as you forge helps a lot.
  2. Welcome Doc! Another suggestion I'll make is to check the date of any topic you reply to. For example, this topic was started almost 10 years ago, so those involved in the original conversation probably aren't paying attention anymore. Have fun!
  3. If you've been to any of the conferences in the last number of years, you probably know Bear, the picture under my name.... Hopefully I'll be able to make the 40th Anniversary Conference this May, if so, see you then.
  4. 5x5=25 x5=125 x5=625. makes sense to me. I'll agree that this many layers won't make a great damascus pattern, even if you were to use the typical 1080/15N20. I've found that when I get past ~300 layers, the pattern doesn't show up much. If you have any of the cable left, I'd just twist weld the cable into a billet, cut it into 2 pieces and then sandwich some 1080 or other tool steel for a san mai blade as mentioned above. You still probably won't get much of a dramatic pattern because the 1040 is like a mild steel and not enough nickle to shine. Here's a pic (not the best, sorry) of one I did with O1 core/15N20/mild steel on the top. Notice how the mild steel looks kinda muddy. This one is O1/15N20 I use 3 parts water to 1 part Ferric Chloride (PCB etchant from Radio Shack) You in Portland? Are you a member of the NWBA?
  5. Thanks Thomas, but not sure what you mean. Now that RadioShack is no longer, I'm at a loss. Any suggestions on how to or where to go to compare brightness? I can't drive anymore due to medical issues, don't live in an urban area and need to find rides into town, so shopping around at different stores is not practical for me. As an aside, the watermark in question is from Fabriano, where my Grandfather was born. I actually picked it up over 20 years ago before I got into blacksmithing, and it's a watermark of blacksmiths.....I'll post pics when I'm finished. How much did the set cost, Das?
  6. Hello all. This isn't specifically blacksmithing related, but it is for a forging project I'm working on. I'm making a standing frame for a watermark I have and looking for a way to provide the lighting. I purchased one of these battery powered tea lights off the net and it's not bright enough, so I'm looking for ideas. There's no way that I can see to swap out the bulb for a brighter one. Thanks.
  7. I'll agree with both of the above, but I've also had a failure, so I try to clean the steel as much as possible first. Even if it doesn't matter, I feel the less nasties I burn up in the forge, the time spent doing this isn't wasted.
  8. The swages do help, but not necessary. At the beginning. go very slowly and strike softly until the steel feels like it's getting compressed into a solid mass and keep twisting the stock like you are trying to tighten the twist as you forge.
  9. Nice looking knife. Nice! I will hopefully remember this on my next one. Thanks for sharing.
  10. I hear ya, Maxwell. My brother is expecting -40 in Minnesota.... But to be honest, I'm more concerned about the 95 deg summers with 90% humidity that cools down to 90 deg with 90% humidity at night. You can always put more clothes on, but only take so much off. Stay warm and safe. As always peace and love billyO
  11. Steve - I grew up in the Chicago area, have lived in Washington for 25 years, and am thinking about moving back to the South Side, like I said.
  12. Hmmm...I don't use a press, but do use a #250 chambersburg with big flat dyes and haven't had that happen on the 3 billets I've made yet.... sigh - I guess I have to keep trying.. as always peace and love billyO PS- whereabouts in norther IN are you? I'm from the Chicago area and thinking about moving back to somewhere on the south side
  13. I'm still trying to figure out how that happened, so my other thought is... Did you forge this by hand? My guess is yes, and if you've noticed, while drawing out a billet, because of loss of material due to scale top view the bar ends up looking something like this: So when stacking for the chisel cut, you wouldn't get the exact alignment I showed in the 'standard' above, which could cause what you ended up with. When using power, there is less loss of material, so it's easier to keep the layers aligned like the 'standard' pattern. I'd appreciate some input from those smiths who have been doing this longer than I have. as always peace and love billyO