bigb

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About bigb

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  • Location
    Arizona
  • Interests
    metalworking and diesel engines
  1. I went to get my card at the last minute and I was afraid they'd be out. Then I realized when I got there and the whole card aisle was mostly guys there would be plenty as most of us guys wait till the last minute.
  2. Don't know if you did it yet but I put a 8" Chimenea pipe thru a corrugated metal roof almost 20 years ago and it is not leaking yet. I simply got the flashing then used a tube of GE Silicone on the uphill side and pressed it down. Don't try to seal the downhill side or it could trap water in and leak. I've had some roaring fires in that Chimenea over the years and the pipe immediately above it has gotten sizzling hot but the silicone is still holding. The silicone also is rubberized so it gives for expansion instead of cracking like plastic roof cement.
  3. for wire sizing and voltage drop loss calcs yes but for total power consumption no, In a resistive load like a heating element Amps X Volts= Watts so end cost is basically the same minus VD losses on the 240 volt circuit. You can't get around Ohms law.
  4. heh heh well I am not calling myself a blacksmith just yet! I do however have a friend who is quite accomplished and I will ask him to assist me when he has a little time.
  5. I have a terrible time with my tongs. From the fire to the anvil I usually lose a lot of time fumbling around trying to turn the work piece how I need it, sometimes dropping it, losing heat as I fumble around. All my tongs are used flea market bargains except two pair of Wolf jaws. I am thinking of ordering some quick tongs and make them to fit my work better, but mostly right now I think it's just that I haven't practiced enough and my coordination is not that great anyways. I have considered just welding rebar onto my pieces but resisted thus far because if I do that I will never get the hang of the tongs, plus that's a PITA anyways.
  6. Finished the forge today and fired it. I didn't time anything but it did get hot pretty quickly and once warmed up it had no trouble heating my test pieces. It's got a real good swirling effect. I noticed the hottest point seems to be the side opposite the wall that the flame rolls into. It seems to roll along the floor, up the wall and across the roof, down the other wall and develops a hot spot right as the tip of the flame hits the floor again. The front 2/3 section seems to get hotter than the back, I might try aiming the burner toward the back a bit. I have the burner recessed about 1.5" past the Kast-O-Lite and into the ceramic blanket liner. Now I need to study up on making the flame optimal and efficient, and build an idle circuit. svid.mp4 Tried to put in a short video, not sure if it will work
  7. Well it seems my 3 foot diameter piece of 1/2" plate walked (or rolled) away. I knew right where it was for the last couple years and went to get it today and it was gone. I still have some 3/8" ones but I really wanted to use 1/2".
  8. Looks pretty heavy duty. I'm torn between using steel or wood for my upright piece, I have a big chunk of 12X12 fir 36" tall that I could secure to a 36" diameter 1/2" plate I have using some big 3/16" straps I got for free yesterday. Or I could use some 8x8 sidewalk drain I have also and make a plate top. I wonder if the wood would offer any advantage?
  9. Oh we use Scotch 33 for anything important but for pulling wire and temporarily bundling home runs for easier handling we use the cheap stuff.
  10. Makes me appreciate it here, I was complaining to my wife before work this morning that I would be outside all day in 45-50 degree temps doing a service upgrade. Well it's cold to us anyway. The Noalox doesn't like to come out of the bottle and the vinyl tape just breaks unless you keep it in your jeans.
  11. I didn't know that
  12. Really nice work. What kind of plasma cutter do you have? I am trying to decide which one to buy myself
  13. Some food for thought, in the Forges 101 sticky post #6 Mikey talks about a moveable barrier to allow exhaust gasses to rise out and up while the barrier, with it's reflective coating, reflects radiant heat back into the forge to help avoid a cold spot. I have an idea to cut only a very small viewing hole in the doors, then control the exhaust by leaving them ajar. I believe this will create what Mikey is talking about. What do you guys think?
  14. Thanks for the good replies, Frosty I thought of that last night after I posted and that is exactly what I'll do, take the doors off and do some trial runs with stacked fire brick. I decided to give the hinged doors a try since I didn't want to be fumbling around with sliding bricks and stacking bricks. If this works I think it will be faster and easier. If it doesn't work then I'll get out the grinder and do something different. I did a lot of Googling and didn't find anything like this so I said why not give it a try?
  15. If your lining blanket is anything like mine was it actually finished out at 2.5" after putting in two 1" layers. That brings you down to 380. Then what about the floor? I ended up flattening the bottom for a flat floor. My dimensions were similar to yours but I ended up at roughly 325 cubic inches. I included a layer of refractory cement over my blanket. My cubic inches were going to end up too small and I ended up peeling some of the blanket out then packing the castable in tight so I would have enough space.