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I Forge Iron

bigb

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About bigb

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  • Location
    Arizona
  • Interests
    metalworking and diesel engines

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  1. Thomas my plan is to weld the two pieces to a large coupling nut then thread in an eye. I don't have enough length to make it in 1 piece anyway so I need to use 2 pcs welded together.
  2. Not enough undeveloped space on my city lot for all that. What I really wish is that this Covid didn't happen and I could take my steel to one of the open forges and get guidance, there were always a bunch of experienced people willing to help. They've all been canceled though, until this horrible mess is over. I'll probably end up waiting a bit right now as we are expecting record heat the rest of the week.
  3. My original plan was a complete arch to suspend an O2 cylinder bell but also considering less than that, so that it is somewhat pointed at the top like a church window (see pic), which would be easier and might look better. I do have a heavy steel table that I can attach various jigs to, I also have a receiver hitch mount for my 6" vise so I can use a truck for stability if I need to. I have a thick piece of plate 36" diameter that I will weld the finished structure to, then drill the plate and bolt it to a concrete foundation in the ground. I am thinking about blowing some holes in the plate
  4. I have some 1-1/4" rebar that I would like to bend a couple of 90s at the ends so I can weld them together into an arch but I'm not sure if it will even be possible with what I have, a gas 1 burner forge, a coal fired barrel forge and a 1-1/4" hand EMT bender. I also have a large OA setup. My concern is that I won't be able to heat enough length, or keep it heated long enough length to make a smooth radius. My other option is to find someone with a hydraulic bender and pay them to do it, or just give the idea up altogether and make the arch square. Anyone have suggestions? What about making a
  5. Thanks for the ideas, Frazier that's a great idea on the spade bits, I think I may try some cabinet door pulls with the mason bits. Neil, I may sharpen a few but I just retired and won't really be needing them anymore, been accumulating for a few years. anvil, tool are a good idea, I may make some drift punches which I seem to use on a regular basis, Thomas I have been thinking about some Ocotillo and I just may try that. We missed our annual trip through your town this year due to the pandemic, hoping soon though. Family reunion in Trementina was postponed and may happen in the fall, friends
  6. I have a lot of worn out spade bits, masonry bits (5/16" X 4") and a pile of worn out hole saws. Any ideas what to make? So far all I can think of are flowers or leaves, or plants out of the spade bits. There's more hole saws than in the pic, about twice that many, they range from 1-3/8" to 4-1/8".
  7. I finished my shorts rack Sunday but the site has been so slow I haven't been able to post. I used 6x6 sidewalk drain cut with a torch and welded together with 2x2 angle and a piece of 3/16" on the bottom. All from scrap I had laying around. As to how have I built my pile I visit the scrap yard regularly plus they have special hours every other Saturday where we can go wandering before they start up the equipment. Also some came from other metal workers who had weekend get togethers and yard sales, and a lot came from just asking people "do you want that?"
  8. This thread is timely since the stay at home orders I have been spending a lot of time in the shop. I started going through all my steel last week and getting it organized, I found a lot of things I didn't know I had. This weekend I am building a rack similar to the ones at the hardware store to put all the lengths of material under 36" into, those are the ones that get lost too easily behind the big stuff. This is all my bar, rod, angle, tubing, pipe & rebar, 20 footers outside under the porch, anything 12 feet or less is inside. Then there's another 2 walls of sheet & plate inside an
  9. I find it hard to pass up any metal whatsoever. I have several tons right now in various locations at my house. It's like treasure to me. When I need to build something I am always looking to use the least desirable stuff in my collection first, I almost hate to use a "nice" piece of steel for the project at hand in case a better use for it might come up in the future. It's even hard for me to toss small scraps that might be useful someday. I got a lot of my collection from the scrap yard where I recycle my copper wire. Also on the construction sites, any scrap or stuff home owners don't want
  10. Once you have the anhydrous Borax will it store OK or will it absorb moisture like 7018 welding rod does?
  11. In my shop I hooked up a socket to my air compressor and screwed in a red light bulb that stays on when the compressor switch is on, I don't forget to shut it off this way. I have several electric heaters with 4 hour spring wound timer switches on them, plus red light bulbs. Another compressor idea is to wire it through a time clock and install only the "off" cam set at the latest time you would be in the shop. That way the compressor will never stay on all night. Just use the manual switch in the time clock to turn it back on.
  12. The masons here remove the guards and put 10 inch carbide/diamond blades on their 7" grinders to slice block, very scary looking. They don't believe in respirators either, why waste good beer money on a respirator when you can just pull your tee shirt over your nose?
  13. That is one beautiful vise! I really need to get going on my 3 post vises which all need work. Do you happen to have more pics of the mounting bracket, I might copy the design
  14. I am planning a sand filled stand as well, I have the base already made. I wouldn't mind seeing Alwin's idea but alas he hasn't posted for 3-1/2 years on the site.
  15. I think I would do it anyway while they aren't looking. Is it a primary line or something? No such rules here or in the NEC except for proper clearances which vary for different voltages. Sometimes those POCO guys make up their own rules. They follow NESC, not sure what NESC says about structures under the line but whether it is primary or secondary is going to make a difference. I don't see a problem placing a non-conductive roof, or a conductive one at that, under a secondary line provided you have the required minimum clearance
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