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I Forge Iron


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About EDL

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  • Location
    Western Pennsylvania
  • Interests
    Boat racing, wood working, metal working

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  1. I understand that closing up a billet doesn't require "pushing" stuff out, that is precisely the point. Who's arguing? I'm sorry we don't see eye to eye concerning theory and science. I think you are incorrectly judging me in this respect. I'm just trying to discuss, but you seem to be intimating that theory of solid state welding is wrong, or that certain procedures in its pursuit are wrong and all I've asked for is clarification, but whatever. I won't be "doing it" until spring, so I guess I should I just shut up, avoid those evil "theories" and not ask questions here or try to lear
  2. Before I would even consider a hammer though, I have to measure how thick the slab is where I would put it. My house and the original rectangle barn were built in 1900. The main barn is 2-story with wood floor above dirt (and the dang ground hogs love tunneling under it). The floor boards are nice wide, old timber, around 14" to 20" wide and about 3" thick. To the right side is a narrow room with some stalls that appear to have been used for milking cattle. The next room over, which was added at some point, is a large tack room which then opens out to 9 horse stalls (the previous owners o
  3. Yeah, I'm not too crazy about his set up of having to step on the pedal for each blow. I'll have a look at the pettingell hammers.
  4. Personally, I see nothing wrong with theory if it helps to understand the process. I've never been one to simply accept "do it this way because it works", I like to understand the reasons behind it as well. Your comment "... when the layers in the billets are cambered properly..." is interesting to me because I've never witnessed, nor heard, that billet layers need to be or should be cambered. Every example I've ever seen where a billet is stacked and tacked, the billet is clamped tightly in a vice. I've also seen examples where thin material is welded to the edges to prevent oxygen fr
  5. I'm just thinking from the lighter end of things for planishing and smoothing. I'd probably love a heavy hitting hammer, but as I've learned from reading other sections, that gets into all sorts of modifications to concrete slabs to create thick isolation blocks and then there's the consideration of motor HP needed to power them. I am limited in that sense and have no desire to start cutting into concrete and building an isolation block. Since I have no intention of becoming a business, I think a converted log splitter for a press and a light hammer (at some point a couple years down the ro
  6. Well, as someone who doesn't even have a forge yet, I can't make any claims one way or the other, but that doesn't stop me from learning the science behind it. The term "diffusion bonding" or "diffusion welding" seems to be terms used throughout many industries, and all seem to agree that "fusion" welding is the term to describe melting of the metals in order for them to fuse. Diffusion welding (diffusion bonding and solid state welding) may or may not include heat and if heat is used, is done at temperatures lower than the melting point of the metals involved. The term is found in many, ma
  7. What about for planishing type work, say after beating out a PW billet? Making the final billet "smooth" and even, or maybe flattening after drilling it for rain drop pattern?
  8. So, if I understand correctly, setting the weld on a PW billet with a press, you do it in sections, not the entire billet under a die that is larger than the entire billet? I understand not mashing too far so as splay open the end, easy does it. I like the toothpaste tube analogy, that makes sense. Did some reading and found there are two basic categories of weld, fusion and diffusion. Fusion welding is when the metals are melted at the weld area, such as with common welding machines like stick, TIG, MIG, etc. Diffusion welding is a "solid state" process. The metals are heate
  9. Right, I get that, but I was wondering how using a press affects evacuating the flux like light hammer taps do. In my mind I picture it kinda of like keeping air bubbles out from under a decal when applying it. If you press it on in small sections at a time (similar to a hammer tapping on the billet) you get less trapped air and bubbles than trying to pres the entire decal on all at once (like using a press) and end up with bubbles all over it. Does that make sense?
  10. Much reading and video watching on PW billet making leaves a question.... I've read and heard in videos that to set a pattern welded billet (when using borax flux and a hand hammer) to always give firm taps on the first heat and not to go all out pounding as this serves to squeeze out the flux so it carries impurities and scale with it. However, I've also seen plenty of smiths take their heavily fluxed billets and stick them in a press and just smash them down. Wouldn't just mashing a billet in a press like that have the potential to trap flux between the layers and create blisters
  11. Yeah, I thought that was strange. I know there are devices that will auto cycle it, but I guess he likes it. Very compact, but I don't know, I can see that air cylinder failing in pretty quick order.
  12. Saw this on YT. Interesting, but I don't think that air cylinder is going to last long.
  13. Aha, Oil Valley Blacksmiths Association. Found them in an article of the Titusvile Herald. Titusville is only about 30 mins north of me. It seems they go up there to do demonstrations once a month during spring/summer. All three of the towns you mention above are within 30 minutes to maybe a little over an hour from me. They don't have a website though. Hmm, I'm an IT guy by profession and I've done plenty of web work. Maybe they might want one!
  14. Steve, the ones I looked at are designed specifically for the beginner or someone that has never forged previously...or so they say. It sounded good, but as I think about it, a day or two is an awfully short time frame to produce a knife, especially for someone that has never done it before. I'll pass on it for now. I'm just going to have to be patient and wait for spring unless I manage to get with a group in my local area over the winter.
  15. Good points. I didn't think of any associations, so I did find the PABA website. I may just contact them and perhaps a smith locally might be willing to spend some time with me.
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