Jason Fry

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About Jason Fry

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    Senior Member

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    Wolfforth, TX
  • Interests
    Knifemaking, hunting, fishing, kids

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  1. Agree, try hotter first, and alloys second. i know for this billet I cranked the forge hotter than my usual Damascus welding temperature.
  2. Been a while since I conceived this project. Here's the final outcome. The blade is wrought iron wagon wheel and 1084 san mai. The wrought is from my grandmother's grandfather's wagon out of Spicewood, Tx. The guard is wagon wheel from Vega, TX. The spacer is an 1836 half dollar, to commemorate Texas Independence and the pioneer spirit of the western travelers. The handle is ash wood from a Springfield Wagon Company wagon tongue. Springfield made wagons from 1873 to 1951. The blade is 9.75", and the overall length is 15.75". Flat ground, with the spine at a bit over 1/4" inch thick. This knife is not just art, it's a piece of high performance cutlery. I used it in a cutting contest to commemorate the opening of the James Black School of Bladesmithing at historic Old Washington, AR. Here's a link to a video of the knife at work cutting a 2x4. After this test, the knife maintained its sharpness through four other cutting tests. [video:youtube]https://youtu.be/gmSzAMcAdBs[/video] For more information and a few more pictures, click HERE
  3. Nice build, Steve. You solved quite a few of the problems the same way I did. Cool idea going with air for the drive as well.
  4. I'm in Lubbock and watch the anvil market some. It's been hot. Seeing junk ASO's going in the 2-300 range. Nicer stuff in the 4-500 range. I'd put that range at anywhere between 4 and 8$ a pound. Anything priced in the 2-3 per pound range lasts 5 minutes. That said, the other guys are spot on. Work the network of old guys. FB market place, craigslist, and ebay are all going to be over priced.
  5. I like those big ones! I've got some 1" or 1 1/4" rebar. Might be fun to make a 3 ft snake
  6. I've got some wrought iron wagon rim that I'd like to incorporate into a knife blade. I have done "regular" damascus and san mai, but have not worked much with wrought. The rim is in the .3" range thick at the moment. I plan to forge it down a little, but how far can I go? I'm assuming I can run it through the power hammer at yellow heat? Next I'll grind off the scale and laminate it to a piece of blade steel. I've got 1084 and W2 both on hand in 1/4" and 3/16 thick. This would leave my final billet as thick as perhaps .6 or so after welding. Again using the hammer, I assume this three layer stack of wrought/blade/wrought can be drawn out lengthwise? Will the different rates of movement of the wrought vs. the core cause me problems here? After forging to profile, I figured to quench at near full thickness and grind in the bevels. Any considerations for quenching? Do I need a faster or slower oil to deal with the cladding? The rim I have came from my great great grandfather, and is fairly irreplaceable. I'd like to get this one right.
  7. I started out following Raymond Richard. Now I lean more toward David Lisch, Lin Rhea, and Jean Louis Regel, among others. Don Hanson. Veronique Laurent. Warenski, and Loerchner. Bruce Bump. I could go on and on. If you're not frequently searching for master inspiration, you'll not likely make it to master yourself IMO.
  8. That's a cool modification. As above, chipping implies brittleness. I wouldn't think welding back where they did would impact the heat treatment of that blade. My guess is that the knife was just mediocre Chinese work to begin with, and would have had issues even if it hadn't been modified. About the only thing I see is to keep sharpening it as it chips out, or to modify the edge angle to make it a little thicker. Thicker edge would increase stability and chipping resistance, although it also will make it not slice as pretty.
  9. I have written down a few things based on my rusty Hammer build from April into May. Is there anybody in this forum who would be willing to review it for accuracy before I publish it? Send me an PM email address removed I’ve had quite a few folks asked me to develop plans, or whatever, and this is about as close as I’m going to get. How do you make a plan for building a race car out of a giant tub of Legos? It’s all about hunting and finding the right parts, and there’s no real plan for that.
  10. Great idea with the pipe, Thomas. I see it, makes good sense.
  11. I've done five of these knives so far. Using the vise jaws, the horn, a hammer, and pliers, I can get them done to my satisfaction. What I'm thinking more about is a jig to make the process faster and more repeatable. If I end up doing classes, I'd like to have a jig to help someone with limited skills come up with a usable knife that doesn't suck. I came at this hobby from trial and error. There's a lot I haven't seen, that's why I ask.
  12. I'm thinking about building a bending jig to help with setting the handles on a rat tail blacksmith knife. Maybe a piece of 3/4 round stock at the end, with a couple of pieces of 1/8" mild welded into a wedge. Anybody ever built similar, or seen one? Ideas?
  13. Everybody in the episode did good work. Ryan got eliminated for bad welds, but the core of his blade was fine. Rob got eliminated for that chip, but that test was ridiculous. I lost because of a bend, but our weapons didn't break. If you've watched lately, four or five episodes in a row have had catastrophic failure. I can say that the contest was fair and consistent. My weapon was better in every way, except the one that counted. I lost fair and square. It is super hot in that studio. They don't tell you that, and you can't tell from TV. I'd say 95 degrees or so minimum back there in the forging area. 25 ft away at the judging table it was nearly 90.
  14. I'm finally able to share that I will be on Forged in Fire Tuesday, September 4th. Hope some of y'all can watch. "Come see a mediocre smith turn junk into a knife!"