Jason Fry

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About Jason Fry

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    Advanced Member

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  • Location
    Wolfforth, TX
  • Interests
    Knifemaking, hunting, fishing, kids
  1. Civil War short sword

    Alright folks, here we go. 25 inches overall. Osage handle, blued D guard. Weight is 2 pounds 2.6 oz. Glued up with epoxy, then peened the tang over the butt of the guard.
  2. Civil War short sword

    Fit up the D guard tonight. Likely handle tomorrow. Still alot of finish work to do as well. Laid it out on paper first. Mild steel bar stock and dykem after that.
  3. Civil War short sword

    After finish grinding comes a lot of hand sanding.
  4. Civil War short sword

    Got away with it. Clamped and shimmed to a piece of angle iron, and put in the oven at 350. Think I may end up at 450, but I'm leaving myself two more steps, as I've figured out it straightens better with each temper bump.
  5. Civil War short sword

    Yep, that's a risk. Kids and day job got in the way of my HT schedule. I haven't had that issue before, where one cracked after HT before tempering, in over 500 knives, but I know people it has happened to. I have cracked them in the quench a few times. Using a new steel, heat treated by eye instead of digital, in an oil that's marginally fast for the presumed steel, it's a risk, alright.
  6. Civil War short sword

    Heat treated this evening. Had a little warpage, but not too bad. Got file-skating hard. Haven't tempered yet, but I figure I can get some of the warp out during the temper cycles.
  7. First damascus knife

    I don't have that urge very often, lol. I have a nice piece of 160 layer random that's scheduled for a frame handle, Bump/Quesenberry/Hanson style. Lines will be clean though. Stainless fittings and black camel bone, I'm thinking.
  8. DIY 2x72 motor question

    I was referring to a standard 15 amp circuit on #12 wire. The numbers above match what I'd expect, about 12-13 amps for the 1.5 HP. That said, I've got a 2 HP 220v motor that I have never been able to stop with grinding pressure.
  9. First damascus knife

    Over the years I've used other folks' Damascus steel quite a few times. This blade is the first one from my own Damascus. This is 21 layers of Aldo's original 1084 and some 15n20. The guard is wrought iron wagon rim that belonged to my great great grandfather, George Kromer. The handle is curly maple. Overall length is around 12 inches. It was built with a threaded rod through the handle, fastened with a corby head that was then covered with a Texas mosaic pin. I'll have it on my table for the Silver Spur show in Abilene Feb 24/25. Although this is a regular "gun show", we've worked with Kim the promoter and will have around 10 knifemakers from the Texas Knifemakers' Guild there, as well as Terry Dunn with three tables of stabilized wood handle material of the highest grade. We'll also have educational seminars at 1:00 both days.
  10. DIY 2x72 motor question

    Agree, harbor freight or tractor supply can hook you up. If you've only got 110, you can handle up to 1.5 HP. Get a TEFC motor.
  11. Kast o Lite

    Alright, so I'm making another run at the refractory guy to see if he can get the Plibrico products that are better suited to this task.
  12. Kast o Lite

    Thanks for the endorsement of the 24/26 class material, Wayne. Google found this.... Looks like a heck of a technical manual of refractory products... Didn't read it diligently, but it's good science. http://mha-net.org/docs/Harbison Walker 2005 Handbook.pdf Also found this... our friend Satan has 60% alumina and 34% silica and a 3200 degree rating. https://ssfbs.com/documents/SATANITE.pdf I've got to try it, at least. If I don't like it, I'll sell the forge and build another. It may be like the time I upgraded from a 16 ft to a 19 ft boat, from 85 HP to 150. The 150 got crap for gas mileage, but it was a better boat to fish out of. The annoyance of the fuel use was overcome by other features. So I'll run the Plibrico 24 as my main insulator. Throw a 1/8 or 3/16 of Satanite on top for added flux resistance and a bit better temp resistance. Throw some reflective on top of that, and go for it. This will be the horizontal forge. Then if it works well enough, I'll do the same in the vertical, although I may skip the Satanite since flux only hits the floor, which I plan to use kitty litter or crushed bricks or something else sacrificial. When all that bites, I'll sell these forges and build another vertical and switch back to wool, and follow your formula better. Just for fun, here's a shot of my current forge. Wool was somewhat unknown, from a boiler in an oil refinery. Clearly not rated high enough. Satanite and ITC on top. Melted into some green glass stuff. Even that thin, the satanite coat held till I started breaking it on purpose. I welded in this setup one time, and everything melted.
  13. Kast o Lite

    I'm really not trying to be argumentative, just to learn... The Plicast LWI 24 is sold as a "lightweight" insulating refractory and comes in at 80 pounds per cubic foot. Google says mizzou, for example, runs 141 pounds per cubic. I should have listened to the forge building experts, not the guy who sells refractory for a living. I would have thought that the rep would know his product better. So back to my original question.... If I've got a 2500 degree "insulating" castable refractory that's 40% alumina and 40% silica, what do I lose by using it? I mean, what are the tradeoffs? I'm assuming a 2" wool/1/2" Kast o lite 30 forge as you guys have developed would be "more efficient" on fuel to some degree, which makes sense. Any idea what kind of margin we're talking? 10% more propane use? 20%? Is a 40% alumina content high or low relative to the terms you've been using? For example, "high carbon" steel has as little as .6 and as much as 1.2 percent carbon, which proportionally isn't very high relative to the other elements. Help me understand the terms, please. Again by comparison, google shows mizzou at 60% alumina and 32% silica. I'm a hobby knifemaker. Time is money, also, even though money is money as well. I want a forge that I don't have to take a few days to rebuild once a year. A day's work costs hundreds. 20% more propane in exchange for durability is a reasonable tradeoff to me.
  14. Kast o Lite

    Thanks, Frosty, that's a good step in the right direction. Here's the SDS.... I don't know if these numbers are "high" alumina or not. http://plibrico.com/uploads/MSDS/sds Plicast LWI 24.pdf My inclination at the moment is to cast my shells in this stuff, then put in a coating layer or two of other things. Maybe a layer of satanite, then a matrikote/plistix/itc/your veegum mix type infrared reflective. I'm glad I make knives and not forges....