Marc1

Every artist faces this conflict some time or another. To do what the customer (market) wants ... or to do what the artist wants? I wonder what Michelangelo thought of his customers? Would he condemn today's painter who buys his colours from the artist supply rather than making them with dirt or whatever was available hundreds of years ago ? Amateur or professional, traditional or modern are all relative concepts and even mean different things in different languages ... and those concepts shift all the time. To find the balance is the real test. I remember a friend who was a great chef but had to close his restaurant because his customers did not understand him, nor his attempts to "educate" them. Is there a point in producing art that the market does not want or does not buy? Sure, if the artist has other means of income. However the reason for producing art form of any sort is to communicate a message. Peace, love, despair, aesthetics, functionality, dysfunctionality are just some of the things the artist means to convey. Sure there is plenty of examples of hidden art. The Japanese paint the back of their cupboards, Van Gogh painted on crumbling walls of cabins. Who are we to say how it has to be done? Still ... it seems like a waste to me ...

BALUSTRADES DE PONT 109 From what I can see from here it is identical, even the same page number. Of course it could well be a book with an expired copyright.

It may not be a book. It could be the catalogue of this forge in France http://forge-salers.com/

Don't you need 20 mm square rather than 25 round?

Lies smoke and mirrors are used extensively in most industries but they are more the product of a culture then a genuine belief that such will produce good results. There is a lot to be said about the psychology behind the intrigue and how some believe this to be necessary as opposed to straight forward honesty and openness. People have different reasons to be how they are and most don't even know why they uphold the values that makes them who they are, values they adopted before age 10 without any input from themselves. But that is another story. It's always good to see how a little input from you has produced such a positive result in another person. Very satisfying, good for you

Nothing is forever in something that is exposed to he weather. Twash is a mordent to facilitate painting galvanised steel, not to leave it as is. You can use Danish oil as your top coat, but the best is to experiment with what you have in your particular environment.

Seems to happen with You Tube blacksmith more than it is the norm. I wonder if it is the craft or the exposure. A psychologist would say that clearly he does not want to sell his tools the way he is sort of hiding them in that video ... but then again I am not a psychologist I wish him all the best. He will be missed ... like others that preceded him.

Only one way to find out. Don't see why it wouldn't unless the zinc is not recent or is contaminated. You can apply oil after the T wash for a very nice effect.

Yes, no pressure depends from the volume and speed of fluid. Little volume and slow, no pressure, larger volume and fast will work against the walls resistance and build up pressure since has no way to go fast. A larger hose will reduce any chance of pressure build up. Glad you are ok and were able to extinguish the flames. What sort of extinguisher did you use? Take care man, nothing is worth a burn.

Go Reffi ... you can't go wrong.

The closest I can come up with is "The Reforger", considering that reforging has the meaning of re-casting your image as in re inventing yourself and used by public figures. Expressions in one language may have an equivalent in another language, but trying to find one that has also the same synonyms is futile. That is why translating jokes is mostly impossible and why even the same language used in different countries can contribute to errors. I was a court interpreter for years and had great fun trying to translate the colloquialism and profanities exactly as they were meant. Most of the times close enough was all that I could achieve. I like The Reforger, it is a person and describes more than one action. Best of luck.

I found a few good deal on Gumtree but it takes patience. As far as prices paid around here it is hilarious. Even more funny are prices asked, particularly when the age of the anvil is quoted as a plus. Very valuable antique anvil (No brand and horn broken off) 100 kg $3000. Stump not included, sold separately for $300 ... and so on and so forth. Makes the search a tad harder, but I don't blame the seller, rather the buyer that even answers such sort of ads.

Cheapest prices for anvils is the UK, dearest is probably Australia. As far as that comment of Lathe prices and anvil prices, I wish it was like that here in Sydney. Lathe prices are ridiculous here up in the thousands for small rusty things one has no chance of finding parts for. May be we can trade. Find me a nice cheap lathe in Israel and I find you a nice cheap anvil in UK .... hang on ... how much will postage be?

At $8 a pound you can buy new Refflinghaus. Older worn anvils are nice but they certainly don't improve with age. You can find opportunities if you look where others don't, and ebay or the internet usually has a crowd of onlookers. Having said that i found a few good opportunities on Gumtree ... that wold be your Craigslist. Best of luck in your search but keep an eye on new prices for Nimba, Reffies and similar quality anvils and don't pay more than half those prices.

If the steel is hot enough to be bent with such little force wouldn't it be non magnetic?

$450 for a 34 kg anvil is expensive even for Australia that has the highest anvil prices. However ... price is relative to a lot of other factors. I would be concerned about the size. 75 lb is a small anvil .... what are you going to use it for? Do you have other anvils?

Good for you Cathy, well done and love them both ... especially Zeppi the Schnautzer

Wow! Can't say I like the theme, but that is a true collectors item! The details are a work of art, how long did it take you to finish it?

Interesting ... considering that the guy in question tells you constantly that he does not know how to do this or that and this is his first time. Every second video he says I have no idea how to do this but let's try. I would hardly consider that "bragging". He is cheerful and celebrates what he does, sure. Not something that is common but surely something that is a prosperous attitude. If we had more people celebrating other people's achievements we would have a better world and not a bitter resentful one. As far as the burners, every video Alec posts shows the forge with 2 Gameco burners in action. They seem to heat up steel good enough for damascus and for welding. Not sure what the issue may be. Are there better burners around? Probably true. I suggest to get a contract with this better burners manufacturer and start selling them. I for once would be interested. I think that the real issue is clearly not a technical one.

i agree that the joint at the post is the way to go. You can either bolt the rail with a vertical bolt or horizontal into the post. I wouldn't let the head of the bolt show if it is vertical, but rather weld it below after cutting the head off and slide the shaft of the bolt into a blind hole and weld around. I would use an acorn or cup nut. A horizontal bolt into the post, depending on the post make may be easier. You need to weld a support to the rail at 90 degree. A joint that wants to be invisible by welding on site will invariably be a weak section for corrosion and hardly invisible anyway. For corrosion protection, as described by Arftist. HDG (or Hot Spray Zinc) + two parts epoxy primer + enamel top coat. That is how public works like bridges over salt water are protected. If you are going to do the finish, make sure that the galvanising shop does not quench the work. The quench bath is convenient for them so they don't have hot stuff waiting to cool down, but will contaminate the surface and the epoxy primer will not take well. Ask if they do "no quench" before, because some places may refuse. Also epoxy is a generic term, make sure you use a two pack product formulated to paint over galvanising like this one http://www.duspec.com.au/duspec/file/audi0540.pdf this type of primer only needs top coat for cosmetic reasons and is tough as nails.

J.B. Hand Made Knifes. J.B. highland daggers, blades and spears. J.B. Messerklinge

I make sure I pass on your message to my brother in law

Nice vice and good job in that repair. I am afraid that forged blacksmith vice were forged and heat treated according to original ads by Peter Wright. You had however little choice and I hope that vice will serve you well for many years to come.

You don't want an orthopaedic surgeon, you want a hand specialist ... if the problem is in the hand or arm that is. My brother in law is an OS ... he is good at a lot of things but hands is not one of them.

Deja vu ... over and over and over