David Einhorn

Google sold Sketchup to another company, and then that new owner/company started modifying it and requiring payment for any use that was profit oriented. I also found that when I upgraded to the newer version of non-Google Sketchup, that I could no longer get it to draw what I wanted,.... too many confusing changes. I tried OpenOffice-Draw but have yet to figure out how to draw an asymmetric curve.

The "Antique Barn" up on Route 30 near York, PA always seems to have anvils, rivet forges, leg vises, and sometimes a cone. And usually the various yearly blacksmithing events within driving distance have a few anvils, vises, and just about everything else that one can want.

I used to use Google Sketchup but I made the mistake of "upgrading" to a newer version of Sketchup that not only do I find it difficult if not impossible to make a drawing, but the newer "free" version prohibits using the resulting drawing for any project that might involve a profit. Please, recommendations for drawing software that allow the drawing of asymmetric curves,and easy to learn and use, especially software that does not have a large price tag would be greatly appreciated. I don't need super-fancy software, just the ability to draw simple illustrations of blacksmithing tools and other projects. Thank you in advance. Dave E.

My plan is to bring a few things for tailgating at the ABANA conference, including a stump anvil and an antique tire bender/roller. I will also be bringing a Fisher anvil that I will be gifting to a friend.

Their Youtube page did not allow me to leave a comment. Perhaps they got tired of being told they were idiots for destroying an anvil and blocked comments.

Full face shield did not protect me from an eye injury. Now I protect myself when grinding by wearing a welding helmet.

A friend made his own anvil, and I have been inspired by seeing the video of a retired Sheffield knifemaker to construct an anvil with removable tooling. I am fastened by the possibility of having most if not all of the tooling for a project on the anvil, with the ability to change tooling for different projects. It will be especially interesting will be to see how that arrangement of a Sheffield-type anvil may effect making knives. Also, by keeping the making of a anvil as simple as possible, aspiring smiths can then hopefully have the option and incentive to make an anvil of size and function to meet their needs, at a fraction of the price of buying an anvil (if you don't count the cost of their time). I also acquired a Fisher anvil for $50 at a local blacksmithing event, that other than a missing heel/hardy hole is in good condition and would be excellent for knifemaking. I will be giving that anvil to that friend. He is a highly skilled welder and can attach a hardy hole and heel to the cast iron body of the anvil if he so desires. My guess is that even without the heel, this anvil is somewhere between 120 and 140 pounds.

Excellent! Welcome. To start blacksmithing all you need is a heat source, a hammer, a block of steel, and pliers or tongs. The heat source could be just about anything including a charcoal grill or camp fire. A starting hammer can be just about any hammer. Your anvil could be any block of steel, an old hitch off of a truck, or even a stake anvil. Pliers or tongs, and even a crosspeen hammer can likely be found at a yard sale or flea market. Starting with learning to make tools and decorative items is a good way to start, and will in the short and long run result in improved craftsmanship in whatever you end up making. There are a lot of good introductory books on blacksmithing. That said, there is no substitute for hands-on experience with an experienced smith either through an introductory course or by an invitation to the smith's shop. By taking an introductory course you get a planned introduction to safely using tools as well as a well thought out introduction to basic techniques. I've seen a lot of people come and go from blacksmithing over the past 40 or so years, and my feeling is that many of those people quit blacksmithing due to frustration with trying to learn on their own, and frustration due to equipment that was poorly made and thus difficult and frustrating to use..... I would suggest contacting your local blacksmithing group to find out what learning experiences are available to you. It is always advisable to join a local blacksmithing group, and take some introductory course(s) covering safety and beginning skills. Taking the opportunity to use equipment both in class and at local smiths will provide you with a better idea of what equipment works best for your work style. To find blacksmithing groups near you, I would suggest checking the ABANA affiliates list http://www.abana.org/affiliates/affiliate_list.shtml there is likely at least one blacksmith group near you that supports learning about blacksmithing.

There is no definitive/bible book on blacksmithing. Most books on blacksmithing are basically a rehash of basic beginner stuff. Plus the topic is too wide to be contained within one book. For information on knifemaking, a good start is the excellent series of books on bladesmithing includes all the books by Jim Hrisoulas such as: Master Bladesmith: Advanced Studies in Steel Paperback by Jim Hrisoulas (Author) For metallurgy one of the books available is: Book on Metallurgy: Metallurgy for the Non-Metallurgist, Second Edition(05306G) Hardcover by ASM International (Author), Arthur C. Reardon (Editor) ISBN-13: 978-1615038213 ISBN-10: 1615038213 Other Standard Books for Heat Treating and Metallurgy: 1) The heat treating books from ASM are increasing in number, besides the 1991 edition of volume 4, Heat Treating by ASM, there now is: 2) There is now a 2013 edition: ASM Handbook, Vol 4A: Steel Heat Treating Fundamentals and Processes Editor(s): Jon Dossett and George E. Totten The new ASM Handbook Volume 4A provides an excellent foundation on the modern methods of steel heat treating for new or experienced practitioners. Fundamental topics are described for purposes of elementary introduction, while articles on advanced topics provide scientific foundations. 3) And New ASM Handbooks, Volume 4B—Heat Treating of Irons and Steels, and Volume 4C—Induction Heating and Heat Treatment, will be published next. 4) Practical Heat Treating / Edition 2 by Jon L. Dossett,and Howard E. Boyer ISBN: 0871708299 ISBN-13: 9780871708298 Publisher: ASM International(OH) 5) Materials Handbook by Georges Brady and Henry R. Clauser 6) Tool Steel Simplified by Frank R. Palmer and George V. Luerssen And then there are reference books on historical items and design, as well as books on other aspects and categories of blacksmithing. One of those books is "Early American Wrought Iron" by Sonn.

That is a very impressive headstone.

On most vises I have seen two wedges used with the points facing in opposite directions. If this is what you are referring to then making new wedge(s) from mild steel should be fine. The wedges need to have the same taper. Adding a washer sounds fine, but again that is said without seeing that part of the vise.

Every blacksmith's spouse should have their own anvil. That way it is easy to say, "use your own anvil". :D

May I humbly suggest: - Metallurgy for the Non-Metallurgist, Second Edition(05306G) [Hardcover] by ASM International, Arthur C. Reardon http://www.amazon.com/dp/1615038213/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_S_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=214TBF4SKG1OU&coliid=I3II46MYN6AS0E

Instead of putting holes in the plate, I would suggest running two rows of round rod around the legs near the top, with one rod attached to the outside of the legs, and the other rod attached to the inside of the legs. That would leave the surface clear, and allow hanging tongs, hammers and bottom tools.

fe288589e708d4eed971f4c6ad65c19a

If it were my anvil, I would go with the weld build-up method. ... Super nice anvil!

I have two side-blast forges that I built, both reproductions of mid-1800s military forges, one U.S. Army and the other a Naval style forge. The wheeled forge shown below works fine without a water cooled tuyere. The semi-portable Naval forge that I built, I am still fooling with to solve a few issues including the heat transfer from fireplace to the bellows nozzle. The reproduction cast iron fireback for the side-blast wheeled "Traveling Forge" is produced and sold by : http://www.museumandcollector.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=55&Itemid=56

I agree with biggundoctor...... The Norton web site says that grinding on the side of a grinding wheel is a no-no for safety.

If memory serves be correctly, then no pritchel hole means that it was made pre-1836. It appears to be in great shape.

U.S. Army mid-1800s required wooden wheels to be ideally soaked in linseed oil.

My humble advise is to try out forges and other equipment that belong to local museums, blacksmith guilds and other smiths so that you can get the feel of what forges and other equipment meets your needs and your style of working. That can save you a lot of time and money in the long run.

Thomas you are a wonderful guy who has generously given your time to help others on the forum.

My mid-1800s U.S. Army "Traveling Forge" reproduced from government drawings and specifications.

Knifemakers might be interested in a Sheffield style of knifemaker's anvil.

Hmm, how about adding the temperatures of the anvil and surrounding air and their effect on the changing temperature and plasticity of the iron as it cools from its original heat. Also, factoring carbon and alloy content on plasticity, and the varying temperature of the iron from when it leaves the forge till it reaches the anvil, due to starting temperature, and time to reach anvil, etc. ... and degree of convexity of the face of the hammer and the shape of the hammer's edges.