metalmangeler

It seems like Pat has ended up paying for way to many lunches at our events.I would like to propose that we bring selent auction items to the clinic so that the procedes might repay Pat and buy our lunch this time. I will have something there whether I am able to make it there myself or not.

One thing not mentioned yet is that if you can get the job done in less heats that will often end up with a better finish. There are less oppertunities to build scale, drive it into the steel, and last and I am not sure of the why, but often over worked items look tired. This may be one of those things that you will only be able to over come with time at the forge and skill.

I have been up Frosty's driveway without him knowing, his dogs just were not loud enough to alert him in town or where ever he was.

Just to muddy the water a little I think the main or true value of a cert. would end up being that the person who applied themselves to get it would end up learniing more if it were a good program than the person who did not think it was of any value. This seems to be what has happened in the farrier trade. People will push themselves it is a pride thing. a poor program will not end with as much pushing and then the whole program will suffer by being discredited.

I have a couple bulls, it is true that you can slow the hammer way down, but I have also had the hose between the 4 port valve and the throtle come loose. The change in spead is remarkable if this happens there is no warning. Might be something to think about.

I was thinking that the picture was proof that someone had MY vise.

I don't think Pat looks at this site much. Thank you Mark

pick up 10# for me as well if you would. Mark

I like this knife.

If you make a triangle in your swedge block, you can then drive it into a hot block at an angle or if you have a power hammer on a wedge, this will give you a tapered V swedge.

Fe-Wood; there was no offence taken here I am just saying I think they are not at that standard, maybe when the project is finished the rest of the job will ellivate them. :)

Fe-Wood; I knew that my rocks were inferiour to what you guys were doing, but I am planning to incorporate these and more into a larger project. We will see if it comes out any good then.

They are kind of fun but more time consuming than they appear.

I was looking in the California blacksmith association magazine and I saw where they are puting together a competion to suspend or band rocks. It looked like fun so now I seem to have a new way to waste time.

I season my steak turners with olive oil. rub it on and put in the oven until they are not tacky any more.

I don't often come to this part of the site so I had not seen this. I use them. I have a 350 one I use if I am preheating say an anvil and I do not want to over heat it I stop when it melts. I have a 1825 one I use to tell when I hvae reached critical temp on my H13 projects. At nonmagnetic H13 will not air quench hard. I have a 1750 for S7. I also have a few in the 600-900 range these you could likely elliminate as the steel colors could replace the crayon. Mostly these just sit in their place, but I do use them from time to time. There are no doubt better tools to measure with but these will get you by to an extent.

I finely remembered to take a picture of the anvil stand, these are just 2x4's you could adjust hight by using 1x4 for the last round if the 2x4 were not close enough.

I bought some ITC100 from Seatle Pottery a few years ago, seemed like it was about $35 for what I got which was enough to do my welding forge about 2 times.

Hi Frosty mostly I use 5/8 round like was used in these bolt tongs. For the smaller ones I use 1/2 round. I remember hearing that Jay Sharp used to use 3/4 round I do not know if that is true, but I think it is, it seems to be easier for those of us without the upsetter like Grant had, to start with plenty to work with. I get mine at either Great Land welding or Weld Air.

Eric; I will take a picture of my wood crib style anvil stand, He may want a nice anvil to forge on so if you get the stand done he might want to use it. You really need a stand so you can use this great tool that you have. this style of stand can be made in 15 minutes if you have the right saw otherwise it still should go pretty quick.

My elbow was complaining years ago, the power hammer did more good than anything else. That said I used about 2# hammers the most then, now I am moving into heavier hammers, I think they bounce back less than the light ones and therefore you do not need to catch them. I think that is what causes the tennous elbow thing. I think good hammer control has more to do with not injuring yourself than a particular hammer size, square blows do not bounce off at odd angles and strain things getting the hammer back under control. Maybe a choked up grip helps to keep things under control and then you can do more with a choked grip if the hammer is larger. With a light hammer you use that longer handle to get vellocity. All that said right now I use a real mix depending on the job, if I really need to move metal I use the power hammer. Looks like my answer is really not helping for your question.

Really nice looking tongs for a first bolt tongs. I normally use 4140 for tongs as well, it seems to be a nice steel for tongs.

Haveing anvils in the trucks cann't hurt, but I think the Gordon Williams demo is a demo rather than a hands on type clinic.

If it bent cold without breaking I would think that you should be able to straighten it out hot. Sometimes things that apear cast are forged and you are looking at scale forged into the item and soemtimes you are looking at where closed forge dies meet.

I am wondering where I can get some of the green paint?