metalmangeler

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About metalmangeler

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    Senior Member

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Palmer Alaska

Converted

  • Location
    Palmer Alaska
  • Interests
    hunting, fishing
  • Occupation
    farrier, blacksmith, beekeeper

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  1. Hardness question

    I use soft hammers for people who are learning like Thomas said also for hitting my hardened hammers if I need a different set hammer for some reason. I normally just do not heat treat them, normalizing would be better. It should end up harder than brass.
  2. Have you ever used a fire extinguisher?

    I have used fire extinguishers 4 times, glad I had them for each time. the first time a friend and I were shoeing in a community away from home one of the locals comes running in "the house down the road is on fire," we were able to slow the fire down until the vol. fire dept.was able to get there. We were not able to actually access the source so the fire would flare back up after we knocked it down. The next time was a car wreck really could not get the hood open so the car eventually burned but I was able to salvage some of the items in the car for the owner. The next one was a truck parked next to a fuel tanker I was driving by very late one night and noticed there was fire dropping down from the engine compartment onto the ground, called 911 they had me wait until the police showed up then he and I went over the fence and were able to put the fire out, not sure I would do that again as I learned they drain those trucks at night so seems like a bomb to me. The last one was right in front of our house, we were in the yard and heard a big boom ran out to see a head on had taken place with the one car on fire 2 people trapped in it, ran back to the house got the extinguisher, got it out, ran back for another in case it flared back up but it stayed out. When the fire dept. got here they worked for a couple hours getting the one girl out of the car the driver was killed by the impact. Only the fuel co. ever replaced the extinguisher, I think they only did it because I was shoeing for the wife of one of their drivers and i mentioned to her that I thought they should.
  3. First three hammers

    Latticino the 1045 that quench cracked did it happen right at the time of the quench or later if not right at the quench how long after? could you have tempered before the crack? I guess I am hijacking, really curious I have had 4140 crack and some that was fine after water quenches. MillwakeeJon very nice hammers for the first 3.
  4. Puukko images

    I guess you are covering the wooden sheath with leather to make your completed sheath. I am unaware of this method, but it seems safer than just leather. I should try a few birch bark handles. They look pretty nice. Thanks for sharing.
  5. Made some tongs but don't quite know if they have a specific name?

    If the rivet that you are going to upset into a head is about 1 1/2- 2 times longer than the diameter that will work out ok. most times. Too short not enough head weak to long trouble with bending rather than upsetting.
  6. I am a big fan of doing the same project many repeations. The hooks described by Vaughn is a good illistration and start, this is the kind of work that would be expected of an apprentice. I guess that really does not answer the question of how long a session should last, but if they are really short you are not going to really get much done. A lot depends on how you are set up is your shop constantly set for work or do you need to roll out all the equipment from storage to start......I would think you should plan to have an hour if you are trying to get anything of value done.
  7. the fair was slower this year than it has been for several years I think the weather (wind affects me more than rain as the booth position amplifies it. ) and the current low oil field economy put a hurt on me, I did ok but really had a lot of unsold products at the end of the fair. I do have a few orders to make so need to get them done I am not good at that but am trying to improve. I started the fair with no damascus knives so I was working on getting some finished. when you came by.

  8. Double sided leaves

    Frosty, Cheryl told me you came by while I was playing hooky. if I remember I will bring the tools to do the leaf to the next meeting.
  9. How am I doing on these tongs

    no one has mentioned it is nice and stronger to have your jaw thicker at the boss tapering as you go, rather than the other way.
  10. Double sided leaves

    I typed this stuff last night then on the way to bed thought, this is not really likely to work. Thomas Powers mentioned the need for power, also with people hitting spring swedges by hand there is a tendency to not hit square, this makes the top die swing, likely smudging the result you are looking to achieve. You can avoid some of these problems by making a spring that needs to be opened to use i.e. you pry open the swedge to insert your work these will then suck out heat from the surface the very part you want to work or you could make a guided tool more time consuming to make. I mentioned earlier the other type I forge I really think they would be much more doable with hand held tools, I will be demonstrating at the local fair for awhile, if Frosty shows up with a camera I will forge one with that method he likely can put the pictures up here. It makes a different type leaf but making something that is achievable with what you have to work with is often better than having a good plan that you cannot do for some reason. (lack of controlled power, say the press or power hammer)
  11. Double sided leaves

    You are describing your setup, as I stated earlier you will need to do a set up before you can use your swedge or the end shape will not look like a leaf. You need to make the tip and the stem before you texture the leaf or you will end up with textured piece that is not leaf shaped. I think you will find that just cutting your veins in with a chisel will be more realistic than using the grinder. If your setup is good and you should be able to do it quickly and easily on a round edge of your anvil or something like that you should not need any concavity in your die. You can test a setup by doing it then just pound the setup flat you should have a leaf shape just no texture. One of the problems people have making dies is they leave out steps they normally do in making a piece just making the last die in what should be a set of dies or tools, or in your case I think you might be trying to leave out steps you would do with your anvil when making leaves, just doing the last step with the die.
  12. Double sided leaves

    The 2 methods I have used are a spring swedge, you will want to do your setup prior to using this tool as it will be only for your double texture not for the shape that comes from your setup. the other method and my favorite is to use a set of crown dies on the power hammer this could be hand done with a bottom fuller crowned both directions and a hand hammer that matches. again you will want to do the set up separately.
  13. power tools for knifemaking, yes or no?

    I use what ever tool in the shop I think will help me, I even use modern steels........in both my tools and products.
  14. Thin damascus project

    I you twist and do not forge to thin then grind to get end thickness then that is one way the star pattern is made. just a thought.
  15. Just picked up a Hay Budden

    Frosty is right if I got that anvil here for the asking $6 per pound I would be happy. Looks like a really nice anvil.