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About metalmangeler

  • Rank
    Senior Member

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Palmer Alaska


  • Location
    Palmer Alaska
  • Interests
    hunting, fishing
  • Occupation
    farrier, blacksmith, beekeeper

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  1. the fair was slower this year than it has been for several years I think the weather (wind affects me more than rain as the booth position amplifies it. ) and the current low oil field economy put a hurt on me, I did ok but really had a lot of unsold products at the end of the fair. I do have a few orders to make so need to get them done I am not good at that but am trying to improve. I started the fair with no damascus knives so I was working on getting some finished. when you came by.

  2. Double sided leaves

    Frosty, Cheryl told me you came by while I was playing hooky. if I remember I will bring the tools to do the leaf to the next meeting.
  3. How am I doing on these tongs

    no one has mentioned it is nice and stronger to have your jaw thicker at the boss tapering as you go, rather than the other way.
  4. Double sided leaves

    I typed this stuff last night then on the way to bed thought, this is not really likely to work. Thomas Powers mentioned the need for power, also with people hitting spring swedges by hand there is a tendency to not hit square, this makes the top die swing, likely smudging the result you are looking to achieve. You can avoid some of these problems by making a spring that needs to be opened to use i.e. you pry open the swedge to insert your work these will then suck out heat from the surface the very part you want to work or you could make a guided tool more time consuming to make. I mentioned earlier the other type I forge I really think they would be much more doable with hand held tools, I will be demonstrating at the local fair for awhile, if Frosty shows up with a camera I will forge one with that method he likely can put the pictures up here. It makes a different type leaf but making something that is achievable with what you have to work with is often better than having a good plan that you cannot do for some reason. (lack of controlled power, say the press or power hammer)
  5. Double sided leaves

    You are describing your setup, as I stated earlier you will need to do a set up before you can use your swedge or the end shape will not look like a leaf. You need to make the tip and the stem before you texture the leaf or you will end up with textured piece that is not leaf shaped. I think you will find that just cutting your veins in with a chisel will be more realistic than using the grinder. If your setup is good and you should be able to do it quickly and easily on a round edge of your anvil or something like that you should not need any concavity in your die. You can test a setup by doing it then just pound the setup flat you should have a leaf shape just no texture. One of the problems people have making dies is they leave out steps they normally do in making a piece just making the last die in what should be a set of dies or tools, or in your case I think you might be trying to leave out steps you would do with your anvil when making leaves, just doing the last step with the die.
  6. Double sided leaves

    The 2 methods I have used are a spring swedge, you will want to do your setup prior to using this tool as it will be only for your double texture not for the shape that comes from your setup. the other method and my favorite is to use a set of crown dies on the power hammer this could be hand done with a bottom fuller crowned both directions and a hand hammer that matches. again you will want to do the set up separately.
  7. power tools for knifemaking, yes or no?

    I use what ever tool in the shop I think will help me, I even use modern both my tools and products.
  8. Thin damascus project

    I you twist and do not forge to thin then grind to get end thickness then that is one way the star pattern is made. just a thought.
  9. Just picked up a Hay Budden

    Frosty is right if I got that anvil here for the asking $6 per pound I would be happy. Looks like a really nice anvil.
  10. Tong Selection Advice

    Likely the OP has already done what ever he was going to do, I would change his list to either flat jaw or farrier tongs for the 1/4 x 1 as the 1/4 tongs would work well on all 1/4 thick stock and often I grab stock from the side. If you know you will be on the end most of the time then the box jaws are better just a thought.
  11. Damascus Pattern and Etch questions.

    Normal cable won't give you the contrasts you will see using different steels especially the types chosen for contrast such as in the post directly above this one.
  12. Art on Fire 2017

    Busy I am trying to get ready for our next show. Rebecca had a birthday. We got an order for a dozen of our cheapest knives. Hoping to go dip netting soon. No real excuse for missing the show though. PM me your cell number and I will text you some pictures of Rebecca's art pieces she sold at the botanical garden a couple weeks ago.
  13. Art on Fire 2017

    How did the art on fire show go?
  14. You could up grade those hooks the frying pans are hanging from Looks good I normally do not like people in my forge, so you are doing better with the PR. Looks like the items turned out pretty well.
  15. A couple of cute skinning/capeing knives

    I find it confusing when ever someone says they are looking for a skinner. Years ago I did a lot of trapping, and a fair amount of hunting, to my mind a skinner should have a well rounded tip, this style of knife would be used for bear, beaver and such, the rounded blade being used for fleshing and skinning at the same time, the rounded tip saving you from making holes. The knife I liked for fox lynx and such was a slim blade with a sharp tip, the blade being about 2.5 inches long. a couple years ago I started making a knife a I call a detail knife, I made it specifically because there are so many people using the knives with the throw away blades which are quite brittle this knife was made for skinning bear toes, it works pretty well for splitting lips and turning ears and such, this has a very pointy profile, and short blade, like 1.25-1.5 inches long. It seems like any knife anyone ever used to skin any type animal is called a skinning knife. most of what I see called skinners are what I would call a hunting knife not really a special purpose knife more of an all around tool you could use for skinning and field dressing an animal. A skilled person with a good hunting knife should be able to skin and field dress including cutting into packable sized loads a moose or elk or deer with out resharpening or using any other tool. Obviously if you had a saw or axe with you so much the better. IMO the knife posted by the OP might be pretty fun to try, I would think it should work pretty well as a skinner, for field dressing large game or probably skinning beaver types, i would not like it as a capeing knife as I think I would have trouble skinning ears, and such I do not think it would work to well for skinning toes either as you would not be able to reach in the small area with the wide blade tip.