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About metalmangeler

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    Senior Member

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Palmer Alaska


  • Location
    Palmer Alaska
  • Interests
    hunting, fishing
  • Occupation
    farrier, blacksmith, beekeeper

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  1. I bet Jay's son knows a lot more about it than I ever will.
  2. Might think about 1045 should move easier under the hammer, not quite as good but I would think it should work well enough. Less $$$$ for the steel. easy to heat treat. In production with a small hammer (50# LG) moving easier should help in getting out product, make a prototype see if it is the 1045 will do. You need to do a few prototypes to see how much time and material it will take and to start to sort out how to tool up for the job anyhow. If he is doing the marketing and handleing and you are just forging the head I would think you will need to make them for around $40 if he is selling them at the mentioned price point, so you would need to spit out at least 3 per hour including heat treatment. He will need to have a fairly large order to make this worthwhile for you. Going from one offs to production might not be how you are made, or it might be really good for you but it will be different and take a different mindset. Just how I would look at it.
  3. I think maybe Jay Sharp got the modern farriers headed in the direction of the shoulder on their tongs, I think he was a following champion tool designs. They do look nice and I think you are really doing a great job Ben.
  4. I remember maybe 30 years ago I was in a small local horseshoe forging competion, I had a tent stake I was using as a bob punch for my clips. One of the other guys thought it was some specialty tool with the hook there to protect my hand if I lacked enough control to keep from hitting my hand.
  5. I sometimes use center fire brass, prefire the primers by heat under a plate so they do not fly into an eye, then seat them like for reloading. You can fire .22 brass with heat also, then you do not end up with the dent in the rim, pull the bullet first of course and set up so they don't end up in your eye.
  6. Very creative, I like these and your DNA knife.
  7. Their are people up there they have not really organized, I think Brian is still in North Pole. Frosty likely knows. I will PM you some other names.
  8. Frosty I bring a different forge to the fair. Mike I am sure you are right regarding burner design, and the forge body design. That said the OP has this forge now, I think it is a workable tool. Mine would get to sparking heat, with a new liner, likely needing more fuel than other models. the reason I would consider another has to do with access and perhaps famililarity I am used to a tin llizzy.
  9. I bought a Forgemaster that I have used for over 20 years, a lot of things have improved since then, I still use my Forgemaster, (it is paid for) when I bought it they had a better reputation than NC forges. The floor of the Forge Master is set up to create a swirl. It does become chipped after awhile and then is less effective. I have been thinking I might get a new forge, I have not ruled out the Forgemaster. Thought I might add this to give a different perspective, I do not think it is a terrible forge, there have been a lot of days it has put out pretty substancial amounts of forgings.
  10. I like it....
  11. I would think burning on horse shoes would put off similar fumes, normally done outside sometimes lots of smoke, death is not usually the result. Esther thinks it smells good I guess one of those familiar childhood smells. Everyone else would rather avoid the smell.
  12. I buy most of mine from Weld Air in Wasilla or Greatland Welding, I think you might try Alaska Steel. Also for scrap try some of the auto scrap yards, ask about BROKEN axles or springs as you don't want to buy scrap at part replacement prices.
  13. I use dies for making most of my leaves these are open dies on the power hammer. much different than what you have in the spring swedge, that said I think you are on the right track not inserting it to much, another thought you should be able to form slightly different leaves based on how far your blank is set into the dies. Do you have a veining die also? You can make one by flattening the correct size stock say 1/2 round then veining that at full width then drive that down into a hot block mild will work if it does not need to last too long and will be easier to make than one from better stock.
  14. I am often suprised here by how hard people are on someone attempting to improve HIS tool. might have been a mistake maybe not, use it keep your eyes open for another in better shape. hopefully your new anvil since it is soft will help you develope hammer control. With your next one might be a good idea to seek advice before modifications, but it is your tool you get to make the decisions.
  15. Somewhere I saw that there might not be a demo planned, I will bring stuff to make a set hammer.