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About metalmangeler

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    Senior Member
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  • Gender
  • Location
    Palmer Alaska


  • Location
    Palmer Alaska
  • Interests
    hunting, fishing
  • Occupation
    farrier, blacksmith, beekeeper

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  1. I saw you had posted so I looked through this thread again, I am wondering if maybe there was a reason for the notches in the rings on the trap knife handle. Seems like if this was a common part of the knife it likely served a purpose. might have helped with fleshing or if it was sharp maybe as a bone saw. It would be nice to get a real upclose look at some originals.
  2. Looks like it has been awhile since this was current, most people buy their linseed oil boiled, this is the kind that dries and should give you a good finish. We do not know if yours might have been boiled but it should say on the label. If you boil it yourself you need to be careful not to burn your place down, and what you breath.
  3. try Sat the 21
  4. Hello Captian you are welcome to come, perhaps a regular meeting would be better but then there is no time like the present. look up Arctic Fires Bronze this is Pat's business I will PM you his phone number then he can give you his address as I do not know the street number.
  5. Hope to see you there Birdman, I have difficulty remembering faces so until I have seen you a lot I likely will not recognize or remember you. Please do not let this offend you, I really have a problem in this area, just want to warn you. It sounds like your anvil should work good enough until such time as you decide to make or buy something else. I plan to bring a home made rail anvil, not nearly as good as I imagine yours to be just as an example of a cheap option. I don't usually use that anvil as I have other better tools, when I made it I had better tools. I know Barney Anderson's father (I cann't remember his name) he was the blacksmith for the Matanuska colony made a rail anvil that I saw, really nice, he of course at the time he made it had better anvils. Sometimes a light or extra tool is the cats meow. Another thought Birdman the purpose of this class is specifically for people like yourself. Willing to make tooling and starting out. So certainly we want you and those in your situation there. Mark
  6. Homestead get someone to take a few pictures this stuff is pretty simple. It is just a matter of getting easy fab. work in mind rather than forged construction. even poor welds should work most of the time if they are placed so they are not being sheared.
  7. You can repost it if you want, I thought it should be here as this is where I send people who I meet at shows etc. Also I am not on the face book page.
  8. The plan is to do a workshop on fabricating hardy hole tools. This will take place at Pat's shop. We are not planning to charge, for the workshop however Pat and I plan to offer the tools that are made perhaps by you for sale most will be $10 each, this should cover the costs I think. I plan to make the following tools, hot cut hardy, cold cut hardy, fuller, swedge, turning forks, hardened fuller, hardy from air hardening steel, spring swedge with alignment pins, this tool I think will be very helpful at the Jan. meeting so will not be for sale until after that. I also hope to make a forming swedge for cabinet pulls. Also plan to bring an example of a hardy hole on a makeshift anvil so most can see that these are not something outside the range of tooling desirable for most all who are moving into the craft. If you have come to a few meetings you can see that this is an full plate. these tools will not be made traditionally I think you know what I mean. ( I am not debating what that means.) I plan to make use of the welder and drill press, and strikers. The plan is to start at 6:00 on Friday the 16 in the eve. and be finished by 9:00. If you show up late a lot of this stuff will be self explanitory when you see it. The idea is tooling up a starting shop without breaking the bank or spending months just making tools. I guess we will see if we can pull this off.
  9. JME I hope I did not come across as negative regarding your tongs, you jumped in and made tongs...... this is great and no doubt you will get better if you keep it up. You are light years ahead of the people who never start because they might not do it perfect. I have some light tongs I made from 3/8 round i know over 16 years ago they are still going strong. I don't use that steel now but it obviously worked. I hope my comments were seen as helpful not critical that is my intent, sometimes hard to know on the internet.
  10. I see you tried the rebar and then moved on, the most valuable thing you use in the shop is your time. barring the rediculous I try to use good steel if I am investing my time into a tool. Also keep in mind that quality steel will hold up better when you do not do a perfect job making the tool. There are people who really enjoy making a useful item from scrap, that is fine and might be your personality. I just thought I would put in how I view steel selection, esp. for tools. When I use scrap for tongs it is coil spring, or similar. Others like to make tongs from mild steel so they can cool them when hot as in red with out as much risk.
  11. As observant as I am I just noticed this was from back in March, no doubt this is all from so long ago the OP probably is no longer looking this thread over.
  12. Is the break at the point of the contact with the vice I think putting it in the vice during heat treatment is not helping you. I normally heat treat my H13 letting air cool from 1850f by setting on a non heatconductive surface with the business end in air then in tempering try to bring the struck end up to near 1500 and get the working end near 800f this should make the tool not so hard on the struck end and yet hard on the working end. I don't water quench during heat treatment of H13. I have used water to cool during use of these tools but I think the practice is not a good idea, and likely damages the tools.
  13. having the grip farther from the rivet allows for more range of grip especially with the grip being rather small in a lot of ways a pickup tong, this allows for the stock to change size as forged without changing tongs. Also if lacking resources less tongs in the shop.
  14. drop a hot bar on wood it will start to burn. Likey will go out when you pick it up though, you would want to have a bucket of water and not have places where hot steel can fall that you can not access.
  15. normally start around 9:00 am