metalmangeler

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About metalmangeler

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    Senior Member

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Palmer Alaska

Converted

  • Location
    Palmer Alaska
  • Interests
    hunting, fishing
  • Occupation
    farrier, blacksmith, beekeeper

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5,657 profile views
  1. Tong obsession

    Ben I am rooting for you, if that power hammer works it will change your production in an unbelievable way. Also your elbows might last.
  2. Portable hole / drifting block

    For sledge work lower would be better.
  3. Rivet Heading

    I buy my rivets as much as possible. If I understand your question I think you would be better off to drill a hole the length rivet you want then upset the head that is not enclosed by the hole you could make a heading tool to make your upset domed if that is your desire, however if you are going to the trouble to make your own rivets I would think you should make them more special than the cheap ones you could buy. That heading tool should have a custom design that is yours......if you keep the heading process while the rivet is hot it should drop out after it cools, much like making a hardy tool.
  4. H13 steel for blacksmithing tools

    Snuffy I am using my forging hammer for striking tools, I expect my tools to be soft enough that this should not cause a problem. My hammers are mostly either 4140 or truck axles tempered somewhere between straw and light bronze. Just getting to nonmagnetic is not hot enough to be hardening with an air quench on H13. If you go from just finished forging to heat treat with out cooling you likely will end up with a tool too hard on the struck end. My soft hammers are more for helping people with poor hammer skills learn to forge. As far as making a mandrel from H13 for say axe eyes it might make sense if you are planning on lots of axes if you are only going to make half a dozen or something I would not bother. I made quite a few tools from H13 before I ever used a power hammer, the steel is hard forging but the end product holds up well, you should be able to forge it by hand. I would be sure I knew what I wanted my mandrel to look like before I made one from a high alloy steel.
  5. Is wrought iron any good for san-mai blade?

    It will need to be hotter than the steel for welding. Just something to keep in mind.
  6. Ready to Learn! Any tips?

    I would recommend you make it to the meeting on the 27th.
  7. Rivet Heading / Upsetting Tool

    My rivet heading tools have the spring on the bottom so they sit well in the vice. I made them with one tool for each size, less options more tools. I really like having the shoulders on my rivet heading tools. I also have tendon tools I have not used them interchangeably.
  8. Next mtg?

    Is there a planned demonstration? If there is what is the plan, and who will be executing it?
  9. Deb's Mother

    I just saw this I will be praying for you and her and her family.
  10. H13 steel for blacksmithing tools

    I have been using H13 for around 30 years. It is my favorite steel for making tools I expect to abuse by getting too hot. The method described by Frank Turley has worked for me for long tools that I do not need to get the whole tool hot in making. (though the struck end may work harden and will need to be dressed from time to time.) For a handled tool like a hammer eye punch you will need to get the back of the tool back down to not too hard or you might be joining some of Gerald's friends down at the ER. Here is how I harden my tools I know this is not as good as it could be but it has worked for me. I use a tempil stick to gauge my heat, after forging my tool I set ti aside, it will be hard all over when cool, I use a gas forge, so you may need to make some adjustments but I take my tool back to harden without anealing, (I know this is not correct, just trying to keep it simple) I put the end I want to harden into the fire, with the back taking a lesser heat, the end I want hard needs to get to 1825F I want the back end to get to nonmagnetic. I will let air cool, I think the optinum temp for hardening quench is 60f in still air I go with whatever the temp is in the shop. We rarely get to 75f here. I expect these tools to get too hot that is why I make them from H13 so I normally do not temper them. (I also know this is not correct, but this steel has been pretty forgiving in this area for me.) after the tool is cool I test with protective gear on to see if I met my goals for hardness and a softer striking end, setting the punch or hot cut to cut a A36 plate and checking to make sure my hammer dented the stuck end. No doubt this can be done better, but it has worked for me, since you already have the steel you might want to try this with a small piece to see if you think it will work for you. The most common problem I see other people have with this steel is after forging their tool they let it air cool and do not know how to get the back end down to soft enough to be safe. At nonmagnetic an air quench does not harden H13 it needs to be more like the 1825F.
  11. Metal supermarket opens in Anchorage

    When the add is for small quantities and about service, I would expect to see a larger price so might be a really good deal for odd stuff, might be for larger quantities also, we will just have to see, but might be not as good for the regular items.
  12. You guessed it, another tong material question!

    I really like 4140 it will get brittle if water cooled when to hot. I think Grant made his from a steel that would need care not to harden I have talked to 2 names you would know who were making farrier tongs who both changed from good steel to mild steel as their customers were careless, the new comers will be your problem customers, and it is human nature to blame someone else, we have been doing it since Adam and Eve. If I were making tongs for a regular market I would send a card with them warning the customer and I would make them from nice steel. the tongs you made that I looked at here look very nice, I hope you do well in this. I guess that I should say I think the reason the 2 guys went to mild steel is you do get a bad wrap when you get blamed for the careless and the mild will cost less to use.
  13. Please pray for our family

    I will be praying for you....
  14. 1095 Heat treat problems

    you might just have a decarb problem from being up to heat while forging. since it appears you are starting out you might be using more time to finish forging than someone with more experence. I think if I were in your place I would try taking one of the knives I had hardened and file some of the bevel to see if it might be harder after I got past the surface.
  15. Hardness question

    I use soft hammers for people who are learning like Thomas said also for hitting my hardened hammers if I need a different set hammer for some reason. I normally just do not heat treat them, normalizing would be better. It should end up harder than brass.