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I Forge Iron


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About teenylittlemetalguy

  • Rank
    Addicted to creating

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Anchorage Alaska
  • Interests
    Addicted to making things.


  • Location
    Anchorage, Alaska
  • Interests
    Addicted to making things.

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  1. I like to pull them out into a generally straight configuration so they are in the rack and handy when I need them. they are not perfectly straight so I know what they are. Anytime I need smaller stock I use them, very handy and you don't have to harden it. I have all kinds of small brackets made out of it. I can straighten about 10' at a time by myself in one heat.
  2. I have not used yellow ochre with brazing, but I have used it soldering (with torch) and welding (in a kiln) with it. I am not a fan of it, It was 100% useless welding. You mix it with a little water and let it dry. Once heated it usually starts falling (or even jumping) off so it doesn't give complete coverage. It was a much bigger problem for me welding that it was soldering.
  3. Great info Donovan! You should post this on the group. Sasans, thanks for pointing that out! -Tristan.
  4. Lol! I had to read that 3 times... love you man!
  5. Thank you curtis! I am forever grateful to Frosty, he has been a true treasure to me.
  6. Curtis, 1AM here... I just remembered, I was going to use a flat bar, but ended up using expanded sheet for the toe support on the kastolite.
  7. That would be really cool if we were all closer. It would be nice to bounce ideas off each other in person. Folded it can stand upright, but this is how it rides in the car, keeping the forge above the carpet. The metal bar doesn't go super deep, maybe 1/2" or 5/8". After 2 years of regular use and 12 road trips (90 mins each) it wore out partially along that line where the bar is, but only on the side where the flame hits directly. The screws are deeper near the side door openings and have held up well, which surprised me, I expected issues there but they have been stable. It might
  8. Thank you, nice to be called clever and not " that nutter that uses little forges" 8-) I drew a little diagram of how I did it. My biggest concern was all the guts falling out while driving down the road so I have internal features for the Kastolite to grip on and the shape is an arch. The flat bar running down the length is set in the Kastolite on both sides giving the arch a toe to hang onto. The screws are there to brace the external facing ends. Overall my Kastolite was 1/2-3/4" thick, except for the edges which are thicker to add strength, but nothing over an inch. Underneath is 2"
  9. Ha, I am a tease! These pictures take a little explaining as I did a lot different to suit my needs. My forge folds down, into the stand so I can stow it hot and drive home from meetings without setting my car on fire. One end of the turnbuckle is mounted to that pivot point. The other end mounts to the arm on the lid. The doors pivot independent of the top. I took special pains to mount the kast o lite rigidly to the frame to avoid it shaking loose in the car. I welded in screws around the kaowool so the kastolite hangs on by about 20 points. It's been very reliable. I
  10. Join us for our next Blacksmith Meeting! Saturday August 8th 2020 Arctic Fires Bronze 15615 Outer springer loop. (it is really Inner springer but don't tell the mailman that he is wrong...) Palmer Ak.
  11. LOL, I am in the same place with burners. I have a little lathe and it is just easier to drill and tap the Tee than it is to explain it to someone. I am honestly scared that if I make one NARB I will have to make 20. Your axe looks sweet! I love bearded axes the best!
  12. Happy to help. I really like the T burners. Easy and let's me get on with forging instead of messing about with burners. The NARB looks cool, I need to build one someday. Good luck with your project. Would love to see some of your axes.
  13. Yep! I use a turnbuckle to lower raise it. Holds it in place wherever I need it without tools or touching hot stuff
  14. I think your forge looks awesome for axes! My two cents on doors- I have been using kiln shelves for doors on my own personal forges for a few years now and am totally in love with them. I have never had a failure on one yet. I have used them in sliding situations over a steel runner with no trouble and I have drilled holes in them for pivot points for doors that swing up and out of the way. Not one crack or complaint, even driving them to and from (while hot!) our local meetings an hour away. I have had to replace Kastolite liners, but never a door! If you know a potter you can often g
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