teenylittlemetalguy

Using Frosty's anvil is a real treat. You probably won't find a much nicer model. Also they will be pouring Cast Iron! I don't think I can make it, and I think Sean is out as well. But have fun for us!

She is my secret weapon...

You can make a move, its ok by me, as long as you are still reffering to the Ur game. Otherwise Renee may have something to say about it. :-)

if it is any consolation you had me all excited for the weekend until I noticed the 15th wasn't Saturday. Dang it I was ready!

Sorry Frosty but I think you have the wrong month. I have July 15 as the next meeting, And it is at Jims in Anchorage. the meeting after it is September 30th.

Empty is a very important point

John, what size cylinder are you running with it?

Frosty, just happened to be taking a break when your email came in. John, Nickel alloys are difficult to move without cracking. you have to make sure you are hot and don't force it else it will crack. not forgiving like twisting mild steel. Also those cracks can be really small and hard to see until you move it. Nickel is nice for the high contrast but it comes at a high labor price for you. Silver is much nicer to use. That billet was about 1.5"w 2.25"L and after welding about 5/8" thick if I remember right. I rolled it all out flat before I made anything with it. Slag has a good point about toxicity. I use 90% rubbing alcohol as it is strong enough to get the job done and less of an issue. I try not to have MEK or Acetone in my shop if I can avoid it.

This is a big stumbling block for people and an inherent issue to using coins since they are lumpy. IMHO Unless you take the time to flatten the coins you will almost always get what looks like cold shuts. They do not seem to go away with any amount of work. They only disappear when you overfire and melt metal so the oxides stuck in there can dissolve, which will blur your lines or completely combine all the metals into one color. You can remove the lumps by hammering the coins flat or sanding them down before welding. I would not recommend sanding Nickel alloys in your shop more than you need to as you can develop allergies. a rolling mill is nice to use if you are going to keep using coins. I recommend using flat new sheet metal. Your time into Mokume is WAY more of an investment than the extra cost of the metals. I would also recommend using something other than paper in you Jig as it burns out and reduces the pressure you put on the stack. I hear liquid paper works. I usually just make sure I have a nice layer of scale on the steel and be sure to not melt the metal. jewelers have Yellow Ochre "anti flux" that works and the welding shop will have products to stop welds as well, I forget the name right now. Here is a billet I did from copper and cartridge brass sheet. and the item I made from it. And finally. Don't get frustrated, this takes some practice to do right. Get a routine of what you know works and stick with it! don't bother with flux, it won't help. just keep the hot air off of any surface you want to weld.

nice looking stack!

Meeting in the morning in Palmer if you can make it!

Not yet, we just confirmed he is coming. should have something after the next meeting in March.

Palmer and or Anchorage Alaska. We may split it between the two places.

Thanks for posting my blurb Glenn! We are very excited to host him.

Copper and brass Mokume Gane pendant. 1-1/2" wide.