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I Forge Iron


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About teenylittlemetalguy

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    Addicted to creating

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  • Location
    Anchorage Alaska
  • Interests
    Addicted to making things.


  • Location
    Anchorage, Alaska
  • Interests
    Addicted to making things.

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  1. I made a couple this morning before work and found a T that perfectly illustrates why I totally ignore the mold lines. You can see the mold mark is not in the middle. I don't know how they manage to make them like this, but I see it in many of the cheap box store brand fittings. To drill this T it was screwed onto a pipe which is mounted in the lathe and center drilled, so I know it is in the center of the pipe and why I think it is best to find the middle of your tube and then attach the T to drill it out.
  2. Tapered is how I did it. Nice and smooth.
  3. Let's not lose sight of the fact that this whole idea of building a T burner like this was Frosty's idea... I would defer to him... Sorry you had issues getting them straight, it's not an easy thing to do. Even with a lathe it is possible to screw them up though, so don't feel bad. I usually use the 1/2x1/2 as they are easy for me to get and I am used to tuning them. If I was at 5500' I would use a 3/4x 1/2 as well. I have noticed that typically on a 3/4x1/2 the tip of the MIG end is above the 1/2 way mark of the 3/4 opening. Using 1/2x1/2 I need to be below that halfway mark to
  4. Let me know if I can be of any help! I would point out that you probably want to get the 0.025 Mig tips for a 1/2" burner. also 6" flame tube is too long. go 4.5" on that. I have a video on burner construction. Not sure if a link is allowed or not, so search Youtube for "Great, easy forge burner". the channel is Tristan Baranov. I would suggest bolting the frame together as bed rail will likely harden and crack, since it is pretty high carbon steel. I use a hole saw to drill out the bricks, then I like to scrape out the middle for a bit of a belly (1/4" total or so) so it is a
  5. Did they give you any grief when you wanted to get it fired? I have been concerned that a studio won't want to fire my experiments. Thanks for the heads up on it being sticky. Nice to be prepared for it. I usually end up making my own exterior shells anyway as nothing seems to fit exactly what I want to make. Frankenburner said he uses a hot foam cutter to make interior molds, I made one and am wanting to try it out. Now to order some Molochite grog...
  6. Monkeyforge thank you for the info. the topic is near and dear to my heart as I have wasted a lot of time thinking about similar liners. There are some real advantages to being able to build a forge starting with the interior first as well as the Zircopax content. Your percentages are by weight, right? Have you fired your liner yet? I am very interested to hear the results after some real use in a forge. How was the material to handle when green? Did it stick together well or was it a struggle to get your shapes? Quote below blank intentionally just so you would see the pe
  7. It will be cool to see what you come up with. Excellent to have nice castable material for cheap!
  8. I really like the way you are thinking. Making something out of "waste" is how people get rich. I don't know much about casting, but your friend is right about the Silicon just melting. You can see this by looking at a phase diagram for the two metals. If you have about 12 percent Silicon then the melting point is 577C/1071F. But you don't have to be exactly this amount to get them to melt together, you can add in less and still get liquid because it COULD be 12% at some point in your solution. once thoroughly mixed and solidified you would need at least that temp to melt it again. Now
  9. 2 stage pumps wear out really easy, it can still turn and sound just fine but leak like a sieve inside robbing you of power. If it was me I would try a new one, they are usually cheap. I would also go back to the smaller cylinder so you can have the speed you need to work hot steel before it cools. a bigger cylinder is more tonnage but way slower.
  10. LOL, I bet. Have you pressed any coins with it? I have a hydraulic press that I want to make some "rustic" coining dies for.
  11. Yes, but keep at it. It is not hard once you understand the path through all the hazards and remember to act accordingly.
  12. Thank you Frosty. You and Thomas are going to keep me busy...Mokume Pieces of Eight is a great idea. Now to make some dies for them...
  13. Thank you! Oh, I see now that it didn't show the loop for the lock. adding a couple on that.
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