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aurox

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  1. so the gouge works, i ended up getting a propane torch for the tempering, brought it to a purple. the edge holds well being pounded into wood, but the tang that i pounded into the handle came right through the side of the handle. so i figure i will peen the end of the tang flat like most gouges. i would prefer to make a female cone to accept a wood handle that can be replace easily. i need more experience before that though. my first tempering on the coals was too hard to get right and the edge broke off being too brittle. i had ground the bevel right after annealing, next time i would wait until after the tempering to grind the bevel as it heats up much faster seemingly than the rest of the full thickness blade. it sure takes nice chunks of oak out of the bowl though! and just received the book making tools by alexander weygers, and his modern blacksmith book is on the way!
  2. hey all. thanks for the replies, i did actually buy weygers books today before reading the recomend. to do so from a friend i have called. well i dont expect replacement info but sometimes people will write info that is not written in the pros books on other subjects i have found. but many thanks to you all, tim i will update on how the projects turn out.
  3. apology for the haste and craziness, my idea is: heat and soften spring, and i wonder if that is different than for a file if they are too different of carbon steels then grind the bevel, or heat and pound bevel crudely if soften enough i may try to cold chisel the tangs out, if not then heat and chisel out hot, any ideas that would work better? heat and bend tangs to desired angle, grind edge to sharpness attainable harden, then temper, and same question as with gouge, am i looking for bright orange then quench in water or oil? does it matter? and tempering am i looking for straw , bluish, i do not know, i would just keep trying different things if one didnt seem to fit how hard or soft to leave tangs? tips soft enough to peen over handles, does that mean the the first softening needs to be left intact, or whole tang can be soft enough to bend, but probably not with spring anyways. jees as i write this i get more questions and library is closing, back to woods, and whomever reads this thanks tim
  4. 4 minutes left, i plan to do similiar process with a leaf spring into a draw knife, softening,except while hot chiselling out the tangs is leaf spring need to be treated different than a file? does the bevel need to be ground, or is punding with hammer possible? i know i can try both, figure i d ask,
  5. i got 10 min on library computer here goes, file into a gouge, i am half way through, i am running by my plan of action, feedback on what makes sense and not welcomed, soften, heat to non magnetic in oak coals, stuff into ash to slow cool, soft enuf to grind to shape, heat again to create cup along center by impacting with cold chisel with file/gouge in angle iron , heat again to bright orange ? and quench to harden, quench in water probably, is oil better? or different result? temper to desired hardness, straw color?, bluish? this is where i am especially not sure, mount into handle and gouge away the oak burl into a bowl. i have done cold shaping/pounding with old saws all blades in past, did again but it bent all up on green burl wood any advice appreciated tim
  6. hi all, am new here as a user, and new to metal working. several months ago i found a page on this forum that had a list of a number of blacksmithing tools that could be made from junkyard auto parts. and so far i am not able to find this page again to print out. any ideas or somehow i missed the obvious? the original two URL's i saved are: but don't give the page i had saved, thanks, tim http://www.iforgeiron.com/index.php?app=core&module=search&do=search&fromMainBar=1 http://www.iforgeiron.com/forum/f7/auto-parts-blacksmithing-junk-yard-parts-2806/
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