billp Posted July 8, 2009 Share Posted July 8, 2009 I just got through looking through several blacksmithing sights looking for something to punch or make holes in hot fresh from the fire metal. Instead in all my looking all I have achieved is to become even more and more confused about what punches and chisels can and can not be used for, so? :confused: What do I need to be looking for to make holes without drilling them using punches or chisels or what? I apologize for the question as I though I knew but the more I looked the more confused I got. But, then again if you don't ask you can't learn. So if anyone has advice on brand or type (with or with out handle) or style anything that want brake the bank please let me know any information will help thanks. BillP Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted July 8, 2009 Share Posted July 8, 2009 (edited) Brand???? every smith I know has made their own; often out of coil spring. Also look into slitting and drifting if you need to make a large hole like the eye for a hammer head. If you have a treadle or triphammer short punches with wire handles work good. (and you can use high alloy tool steel like S7 or H13 that work great but tend to be expensive by the pound...) If you will be holding it in your hand, tall punches help keep your hand from getting burned from IR. I have made some S1 punches that I have two sets of tongs that will hold an indent on them very securely. May I suggest *ANY* basic blacksmithing book as a source on instructions on how to punch holes. If your local library doesn't have any books on blacksmithing ask them to ILL some! Edited July 8, 2009 by ThomasPowers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charlotte Posted July 8, 2009 Share Posted July 8, 2009 Thomas has given you chapter and verse. I would had that when I started one of the best early punchs I made was from a piece of road kill rebar. I don't know what it was but it was tough to forge and didn't mind hot pucnching as long as it was kept cool. The other thing I did was go to the cheapo bin at the hardware store and buy a package of 5 for a dollar punches and hold them with vice grips when punching. I still have a couple that I use as short drifts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grafvitnir Posted July 8, 2009 Share Posted July 8, 2009 Some links that may help...[ABANA] Controlled Hand Forginghttp://www.iforgeiron.com/forum/f7/slitter-geometry-10584/ Hope it helps Rub Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billp Posted July 9, 2009 Author Share Posted July 9, 2009 OK, I hear ya only problem is not knowing where to get the steel or metal I need. Not that I'm trying to make excuses it's just that most folks around here don't know even at metal scrap yards so it's hard to get good information. I have a place where I buy stock metal in Memphis may try and see if they carry the types you speak of. Plus now that I remember I know of a shop in town close to me that might help me out. I just have not come across may people around me who know of blacksmithing. When I tell most that I'm working on learning they think it's great but don't have a clue. I have made some small tools, hold downs, etc. even made some of my own tongs but have also bought a few for starts, kind of what I am looking at with the punches just to make sure I have it right. The hold down was made from a piece of metal used on a railroad track that held the rail to the plate on the tie. Hard to describe but it worked out great with a good heat and a lb sledge hammer. I do appreciate the input and have gotten some great information from the sights give thanks again. BillP Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Lumpkins Posted July 9, 2009 Share Posted July 9, 2009 Bill I know there's several blacksmithing Clubs in your area. Forsure in the Memphis Area. Do some searching and find you one to join..I live outside of Clarksville, Tn and we got a club that meets every Last sunday of the month.. it would be along drive for you..But you can come and hang out with us.. I'm still learning myself and theres some good people there that love to share info..Tom Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fe-Wood Posted July 9, 2009 Share Posted July 9, 2009 Look up BP1064 Slitting and Drifting here in the blueprint section. I use this method and find it to be hands down the best. S-7 and H-13 are the steels used for the slitter and dift. With a proper lubricant you can move a lot of steel all by hand hammering! Note the geometry of the slitter in the picture, that is the key. Best part- you don't have to buy the finished tool and some guy on ebay is selling H-13 for a $1.00 per pound. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Leppo Posted July 9, 2009 Share Posted July 9, 2009 I usually re-forge old flea-market punches, (Yard sales may be another source) or use as-is with a little dressing on the grinder. They're usually just basic tool steel, not heat resistant alloy steel. The one I made last week to punch 3/8" holes was formerly a large cold chisel. Please review the heat-treating info found here and elsewhere to learn how to harden / temper carbon steel tools, and what to expect from “junk-yard” steel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dragons lair Posted July 9, 2009 Share Posted July 9, 2009 Try any small welding/machine/or fab in tour area. usually have small drops and they should be able to tell you what it is. Ken Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dodge Posted July 9, 2009 Share Posted July 9, 2009 OK, I hear ya only problem is not knowing where to get the steel or metal I need. Not that I'm trying to make excuses it's just that most folks around here don't know even at metal scrap yards so it's hard to get good information. As mentioned above, automotive coil springs make good tools of all sorts, especially punches and chisels. Many spring shops will have scraps that they will gladly give away for the asking. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keithgartner Posted July 9, 2009 Share Posted July 9, 2009 I take it you don't want to make your own, which is fine. I won't suggest any one blacksmith tool supplier, but there are a few online that have excellent tools. I will also assume you don't have a power hammer. That being the case, as Thomas stated get the longest punches, slitters, chisels 12" or so you can find. I think you have better control with them, verses the handled ones. Keith Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billp Posted July 10, 2009 Author Share Posted July 10, 2009 Will do there are a couple of semi-truck shops as well as car shops around me so I'll check them out for old parts. Thanks again for your help. BillP Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
firegnome Posted July 15, 2009 Share Posted July 15, 2009 I like to use mild steel for tools that will take a beating or extra heat. I use super quench witch I think there was a recipe posted on the Iforge site. 5 gals water 5lbs table salt 32 oz dawn dishwashing liquid (blue) 8oz Shaklee Basic I ( I use simple green it is easier to find) (A Wetting Agent) Quench at 1550 F (Light cherry red) Expect 43 to 45 Rockwell C on 1018 mild steel and low carbon steels This is Robb Gunters recipe. It works well BUT ONLY USE IT ON MILD STEEL. If you do not if it is mild steel do not quench it in this please. We tried it on a chisel made with tool steel and it shattered on the first strike. Firegnome Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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