Jump to content
I Forge Iron

Ed Steinkirchner

  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About Ed Steinkirchner

  • Rank

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    somerset PA


  • Location
    somerset county,PA

Recent Profile Visitors

7,834 profile views
  1. aaaah i hadn't thought of the "pogo stick" type of spring assembly, that would get rid of the need for an additional guide for the yoke last group of pics, here before the guard was added, showing the details better. also ishould mention the 1 inch socket to the left of the bottom die to facilitate holding swages and such
  2. i considered alternative things to the crank that would eliminate the side to side movement but after alot of figuring i couldnt settle on a way that was strong,buildable with my equipment, and didnt exceed my headspace and footprint limitations. i figured that the problem witha scotch yoke is in that the yoke needs its own linear guide because the spring decouples it from the ram guide, and that would add too much height. outside of the height limitations i cant see any reason it wouldnt work
  3. it has very good snap to the blows, i would say comparative to a 25# LG, maybe a touch stiffer but i thing things will soften up slightly with use. the full throw is about double the crank throw. So i would say the full throw is an additional 2-3 inches up and down beyond the 4 inch crank throw, for a total whip travel of the ram of about 8-10 inches frosty: i have a short video clip actually but i dont know how to post it here.
  4. started this project around the end of august i believe, and managed to get it done about a week ago. instead of the normal tube in a tube construction of typical tire hammer tup/guides, i went with a 45 degree dovetail guide and ram, just to keep things as compact as possible to fit in my narrow and relatively low shop. i also deviated from normal tire hammer territory in the rotating assembly and crank sections. Instead of the trailor spindle i used pillow blocks and a 1.5 inch diameter shaft, in which was mounted a hub to carry the spare tire. The crank assembly is entirely separate fr
  5. i do the nick, quench, break thing myself but i add a step. After nicking it nearly through, i bend it about to 90 degrees then quench just the nicked portion so that the rest of the bar doesnt even touch the water just to minimize any chance at all of cooling.
  6. i would use a narrow slot punch approximately 1 1/8 inch long and maybe 1/8inch thick , and after the hole is punched upset slightly then drift near final size before cleaning up the ring over the horn or a bickern.
  7. It's super late but for the sake of people reading this later who are wondering: these are the checkering tools i used, but this knife was the first thing i had ever done with them so it didnt turn out fantastic but it makes for a really nice grip which really helps avoid self inflicted injury! FYI its not smart to checker around something with an odd shape like this because the lines distort as they wrap around. the better way to go is to make the classic diamond shapes. I mean they exist that way for a reason as i learned! there are three cutters in my set, theyre used like a
  8. its as rigid as a 3/4" spindle can reasonably be expected to be honestly. the bearings have about .0005 or so runout but thats peanuts for what i do. rigidity is very good in the head assembly but the table isn't made as well as i would like and I've spent a good deal of time removing backlash and defects. What I'm going to do is use this table (in addition to hand scraping) to bootstrap my way up to a better made system. At that point the x/y table will be sent to the drill press where its more suited to purpose. Honestly the whole thing was done as a practice project to help me h
  9. the more i look at this vise, the older it gets! i notice now that the front jaw is forge welded on and the hinge area of it has been doubled back and welded to add mass, plus the bevel forging of the shank between hinge and eye is not even, its about 10degrees off of being right, though it is square in cross section. also there appear to be fullering marks on the front hinge jaw pivot but im not sure their reason. As well the post side definitely has the "cheeks" of the hinge forge welded on and it has some deep fullering marks inbetween on the plates, i presume to mame sure the cheeks m
  10. im curious now about how the bracket was attached. was it wedged on the spring side and have you shown pics of it in a post that i can search for by chance? Sounds interesting!
  11. I'll show it in a seprate post when i get to that step probably but as a basic description, its a blue plastic barrel with the top cut off and a crude cage of scrap bars welded together around the outside as the one electrode (the workpiece is the other), and filled with water and a bit of calcium carbonate to make it conductive. then i use an old 12 volt battery charger as the power source.
  12. no, the pivot is square bolt but its not as old as the rest, and yes the leg hole has definitely been punched and drifted to a taper approximately .5 inches square and wider on the "back". As for the thread, thats exactly how i intend to make the female thread later when i go over this properly (after finding/making the male thread first of course) as well as a more accurate thread box. right now its more of a "get by". after getting things in a workable state i am going to throw it in my electrolysis barrel for derusting to see more of the details as well. Something else that makes me wonder
  13. found this at a yard sale for about 10 bucks, and it has set in the corner for a few years now so i figured itd be as good of a time as any to give it a once over. the screw is the most obvious problem. someone has "repaired " it in the past by lopping it off and welding on a 1" bolt in its place and discarding the thread box in lieu of a torche cut square nut. I currently dont have an adequate replacement piece of acme thread and dont really feel like making a square thread on the lathe right now, so i decided to keep the bolt because its a small light duty vise. Another thing showing its l
  14. finally got this finished, added a cheap x/y table till i can make a better version, belt guard, paint, z axis, and built a cabinet with the surface plate in the top pull out drawer, plus everything else as far as basic accessories go. I know this isnt really a machining heavy forum but someone may find interest in seeing how a blacksmith builds a milling machine! final product with pretty much finished cabinet
  • Create New...