Best Online Beginner Supplies (Tools/Stock)

[MaybeASmith]

Our workplace went full remote in 2020 and it looks like it's going to stay that way. I live in a shared house and just feel really cooped up and am trying to find a new hobby to let off a little steam. I would like to give blacksmithing a fair shake and see if it's something that provides a good outlet at the end of a day of staring at a screen. Unfortunately I haven't been able locate any forges / metal stock stores within 100 miles of 99163 which is making things hard to get started. Though I'm sure my searches aren't perfect, so if you or a smith you know is in this area, I would love to get connected!

Nearly every thread I see on this forum asking about starting always suggests just going around to flea markets and garage sales but given the season and location it's mostly been an exercise in futility. So I'm hoping to reach out and see if anyone else have managed to get a setup going via online stores only - and again, I get that used is best, but while I'll be keeping my eye on craigslist/fb market I've given up on actually establishing a starting forge from it.

I'm looking to spend roughly ~$500 to get up and running and see if this is something that works well. I've snagged a couple books off amazon, New Edge of the Anvil and The Backyard Blacksmith, and have read through the first one. This is the list of things I think that I need to get started?

Safety Glasses / Apron - Just going to grab some of amazon but would love specific recommendations on what's worked well for you.
Anvil - Have been watching craigslist for the past month but no listings out there except mine asking to buy your old one. Was thinking maybe a cast steel from Vevor but not sure which weight to get? Also seems like a hardy tool or two would be handy early on, but probably not necessary for getting started.
Forge - Thinking I'd like to just go with propane since I already have a couple tanks for other things. Was eyeing the Mr Volcano but hasn't seemed to be in stock for a while now, not sure if there are any other cheap options for testing the water. Along these lines 
Hammers - Lot of mention in the forums about a 2lb cross pein from harbor freight, but went down to mine and no luck 3lb being the lightest. Have been able to find some online ranging from $40-150, not sure if there are any cheaper options out there I'm missing?
Tongs - Kens custom seems like the place to start here even though they're a little spendy?
Stock - Currently just planning on grabbing a box of 50 spikes off etsy for going through the basic exercises, not sure where to turn once I want more standard stock.

Really would just love any links to your favorite online stores that have decent prices for beginner equipment / supplies.

Regards,
JW

[George N. M.]

Welcome aboard from 7500' in SE Wyoming.  Glad to have you.  A few thoughts about your questions in no particular order.

Read the thread(s) about improvised anvils.  I'm sure that if you hit some of your local scrap yards you should be able to find a chunk of steel big enough to use.  Chunks of railroad rail are commonly used (mount it on end and use the end, not the top of the rail), a piece of fork lift tine, or parts from earth moving equipment.  You should be able to get something usable for a fraction of the cost of anything available on line.  It will require you to get out and deal with folk face to face rather than on the internet.  This can be uncomfortable for folk used to dealing with people via a device but it is much more effective.  Also, use the Thomas Powers Anvil Acquisition Technique which is basically to ask every living person you meet that you are looking for an anvil.

Buy some new steel at a steel supply company.  1/4", 3/8", and 1/2" square, hot rolled stock is good to start with.  Ask if they have any "drops" which are cut offs from larger pieces.  They will come in 20' lengths but you can get them to cut them into shorter lengths to get them in your vehicle.  Sometimes there is a charge, sometimes not.   DO NOT buy steel at a big box store or a hardware store.  It will be much more expensive.  The scrap/junk yard is also a good place to get stock.  Generally, do not use rebar except for really basic things like tent pegs.

You may have to check out places in the Lewiston, ID area as well as Pullman.

Read the thread(s) and google info about a JABOD (just a box of dirt) forge.  It is a lot easier and cheaper for getting metal hot and deciding if the craft is for you than buying a propane forge.

Try a big box store for a 2# cross pien hammer.  If not a cross pien you can use a hand sledge, aka a machinist's hammer.  Something of a comfortable weight is more important than the shape.  You could even use a carpenter's claw hammer if that was all you had.

Yes, tongs are good but I forged for years using vise grips.  

A leather apron is best and can be purchased on line or at a welding supply store.  However, it is not an absolute necessity but helps protect your clothes and your body from a dropped piece of hot metal.  A pair of leather work gloves are good to have.  I like something a bit lighter than thick and stiff welder's gloves but not too thin.  For safety glasses something wrap around or with side shields work best.  Particularly use them when using power tools such as a grinder. 

Good luck and let us know how things go.

"By hammer and hand all arts do stand." 

 

[Jobtiel1]

I recommend finding a local scrapyard to buy a big block of steel to use as an anvil. And you can probably find stock there as well. What you need is also dependent on what you make. I think you can ask at your hardware store to order you one of those hammers and you can still get them for their price that way. Forge wise a JABOD is the most affordable way to start forging. If you're really set on propane I can't help you, never used that.

~Jobtiel

[dickb]

Companies who fabricate fences, welding shops are good sources for "drops", i.e. cutoffs from other jobs. 

[Rojo Pedro]

Everything stated above. you can get started for less if you just want to try it.  A wash tub or wash or box of dirt forge can work pretty well for next to nothing and you probably have the rest like a hammer and vise grips. an improvised anvil is the way to go until you get bit by bug and want to upgrade.

You can get a decent propane forge online for a couple hundred. That and a bundle of Kens tong blanks, an improvised anvil and some scrap steel can turn you into a very good smith in short order..

Good luck, have fun and post pictures   

[Scott NC]

  Do you have a shop or workspace?  I'm just wondering about the "shared house" part.  Everybody has given you great ideas.  I personally got started pounding with whatever I had (hammerwise), on whatever I had (anvilwise), with "found" steel.  I used a torch at the time.  Then a brick pile forge.   Everything just kind of slowly evolved from there.  There is a wealth of information on this forum to help you along.

[JHCC]

Regardless of what you do for forge, anvil, and hammer, do not skimp on tongs! If you can't hold it, you can't hit it! Invest in a few pairs of pre-made V-bit tongs (say, 1/4", 3/8", and 1/2") to get you up and forging. I personally recommend Mark Ling (littleblacksmith here on IFI) and Dave Custer/Fiery Furnace Forge, both of whom make quality tongs at affordable prices. You can find both of them online; in keeping with IFI rules, I will not post the links here.

Ken's are definitely a good option, but I would recommend these to extend your tong collection rather than to start it.

I just did a quick web search for steel suppliers in the Pullman area, and it looks like you've got a couple of good options. If I were just starting out, I'd take a look at Mundy's Machine and Welding over the border in Moscow, Idaho -- some of the Google reviews mention buying metal there for projects.

[ThomasPowers]

Can you get to any of the meetings of the closest ABANA affiliate?  Asking smiths who live in the area where to buy stuff in the area turns out to be an effective way forward. 

Used is not best; they can just be a heck of a lot cheaper than new!   They made cheap stuff back in the day too; but luckily for us it tended to break and be recycled before now----how many HF tools will still be in good working order 100+ years from now?  Until you can tell the good from the bad used can be a great way to throw away money...New can be too but it's easier to find reviews of new items---just learn how to judge the review; skip the "I have fewer than 10 hours forging and I find that the ziggurat refribber is the bestest in the land"  look for the; "been using it for a decade now and still working good"  reviews.

My lightest london pattern anvil is 91  pounds and  "around 100#" is what I suggest to people.  I also have an 80# improvised anvil that works well as it is a solid rectangular solid---all steel all the way down!

Buying steel online is only effective when you are going for smaller amounts of fancier alloys where shipping won't break the bank. If you can find an old paper copy of the yellow pages and look up steel in it you should get a list to try near you---call first and ask prices.  For starting out hot rolled mild steel---usually A-36 nowadays is good and remember that it's sold in 20' sections and they generally charge to cut it!  (I bring my "hack saw on steroids"----a bow saw with a metal cutting bandsaw blade mounted in the frame; as I am cheap)  Ask the price as it can vary a lot by dealer by time---what's cheapest one month may not be the next time you make a buy.  Also you can ask for rusty, bent "damaged" steel at a discount.  I once "cleaned out" a dealers 1/4" sq stock bin and they were so happy they sold it for 1/3 off!  Cold rolled is prettier when sold; but much more expensive and as soon as it goes in the forge it's no longer cold rolled.  I only get it when I MUST have a certain size/shape and it's only available in cold rolled locally.

Now I get most of my steel at a local scrapyard that lets me prowl the piles; of course I have room at home to store stock and so pick up "useful" stuff when I find it for using later, often MUCH later!

Anyway; welcome to the dark side----we get to play with FIRE!

[velegski]

Try a drive up to spokane. Pacific Steel and recycling had a bin full of RR spikes and some cut off rail road rails in approx 12-15 inch lengths. They go for scrap prices. 2 harbor freights  in town, CDA metal for clean new steel and a remenent section. 

Lewiston Clarkston has a Pacific steel and recycling as well

[pnut]

I've ordered a couple things from Ken's Custom Iron (tong blanks), Blacksmith Depot, and Iron Mountain Forge. I've always gotten my orders sooner than expected and the one time I had to return something to Iron Mountain Forge it went smoothly. They sent me a tool with the wrong size hardy shank. 

Pnut

[BillyBones]

Dont forget your mechanic. Most garages have a pile of scrap in the corner. They are a good source of springs, sway bars and the like. A box of doughnuts will go a long way with a mechanic who you are looking to peruse his scrap pile.   I will buy the box store steel on occasion. Sunday afternoon and i need a piece of 5/16" round a foot or so, yeah i will just run up to Lowes and pay the $8 or what ever for it. If i need 500# of 1/2" square, i will wait on my supplier. 

That apron if you are going to wear one look for one with shoulder straps and not a neck strap. That neck strap gets mighty uncomfortable after a while. While not needed they do save wear and tear on the cloths, especially your pant legs. Which bring this up, from experience and the huge scar on my leg, NO POLYESTER. 

Anyway welcome aboard.

[MaybeASmith]

Appreciate all the advice. Especially the online retailers mentioned - though many of them have such a variety of hammers/tongs available that it can still be a little confusing when I have no clue what I need and just want the minimum needed. Was hoping for more of a "Just go buy X from this link here and it'll be passable", but still it's all very appreciated.

Honestly part of the problem is that as a mid 30s skinny IT hermit I'd rather lose a little extra cash than wander the town asking random businesses if I can dig through their scrap piles. I don't really make it all the way up to Spokane but if the occasion ever arises I'll definitely check out that Pacific Steel place!

[ThomasPowers]

I turn in my IT hat in less than 4 hours.  Blacksmithing was what got me past social anxiety---now they can't shut me up in public.  Most of it was from having to ask folks about smithing tools.   

Back away from the mouse! I generally find online to be the worst way to get blacksmithing stuff, except maybe craigslist for garage sales with "tools".    Do you have any social activities: Church, SCA, D&D, SF Cons, motorcycling, etc?  If so start by asking folks you know about tools, 2# ball peen is a standard smithing hammer in some places.  I generally buy my tools at the local scrapyard these days and I will be hauling a 5 gallon bucket or two of hammers to sell off at Quad-State I hope.  Running out of room to stack them at 20 USCents a pound!

Remember too that what works well for one person might not for another; hard to make suggestions when you realize that.  I remember telling somebody that they could make a good propane forge from a BBQ gas tank and they went out and bought a brand new one and cut it up!!!! Meanwhile I spotted 10 of them my next scrapyard trip for 20 USCents a pound *and* if you don't want to bother with a propane tank there was a pile of "party balloon helium tanks" at the scrapyard, nice size and lighter than the propane tanks so cheaper...

[George N. M.]

Dear Maybe,

Blacksmithing can be a good way of getting more face to face social contact through clubs or ABANA affiliates.  One of the problems with computers and screens, IMO, is that they can reinforce face to face social anxiety.  If you tend to be something of an introvert dealing with people electronically much of the time can make face to face interaction scarier and uncomfortable.  This, IMO, is not a good thing.  It really isn't that hard to walk into a place cold and say "Hi, I'm X (stick out hand to shake) and I live here in Pullman and I'm a hobby blacksmith, just starting out, and I wonder if you have any drops in your shop that I could buy?"  If the answer is no then "OK, thanks.  Do you have any idea where I might get what I need."  Smile and be pleasant and confident (even if you don't feel comfortable, you are playing a part).  If you find a place that helps you out come back with some bottle openers or key fobs or a box of doughnuts as a thank you gift.  The more you do it the easier it gets.  I used to be painfully shy as a child and experience got me out of my shell.  Social skills are as much a learned behavior as learning a computer language or blacksmithing or any other skill or knowledge.  If you don't start you will never get there.

George

"By hammer and hand all arts do stand."

 

[ThomasPowers]

My Mother stuck me in Drama Club when I was in HS due to my introvert tendencies; now I'm considered a preferred reader in Church as I can project my voice and have no fear of Public Speaking; (even if I never played a character that was younger than I am now!)

[Irondragon Forge ClayWorks]

Welcome from the Ozark mountains.

I can't add anything to what has already been said with a couple exceptions. I've been hammering hot steel on anvils for 30 + years and can state unequivocally that hammering hot steel on an anvil is a definite stress  reliever. After 29 years in law enforcement, I know stress and what helped me stay sane (some may argue about that).

As far as an apron, I've used a HF welders apron for decades and am perfectly happy with it. For short "drops" of steel don't forget machine shops. One day I was driving by our local machine shop and spotted some round stock in their scrap dumpster. I went in and talked with the receptionist and she went and got the manager. I explained as others have said that I did blacksmithing as a hobby and asked if I could buy the stock in the bin for double the scrap price. He said no, but you can have all you want for free. I didn't take it all but did come home with over 200 pounds of it. As a thank you, I made both of them something from the stock.

Get it hot and hit it hard.

[Rojo Pedro]

Dont forget, steel can be found for free if you look around.  

Almost every house, yard, cabinet, road side has some rusty steel laying around. I hike a lot and find all kinds stuff. 

Even little bits can be forged into pretty things especially when starting out, just make sure to read through this site and learn to identify steel. In rust we trust. Have fun. 

[Irondragon Forge ClayWorks]

Yep, I've picked up plenty of blacksmith road kill. My wife is expert at spotting it even at 70 mph.

[swedefiddle]

Good Morning JW

North West Blacksmith Association is Washington and area. They have their monthly get together's at the Fairgrounds of Longview, Wash.

Their web-site is www.//blacksmith.org.  They are having their Spring Conference June 3-5, 2022. There will be lots of people with the Swap and Shop, "Tailgate Sales". Questions are answered quite often by putting a hammer in your hand and showing you how. Camping is on site. Midnight Madness starts after supper, full use of their Tools and Equipment. Bring an open mind, open ears, open notebook to remember what you see, maybe a phone or camera too. It is worth the journey!!

Neil

[Scott NC]

  As others have said an in person visit will usually produce good results.  I'm a bit of an introvert but have developed work arounds.  

  I just ten minutes ago stopped at a transmission shop on a whim and asked about scrap.  I smiled a lot and told him about my scrap art and he got interested.  Pretty soon he was towing me around the shop showing me his scrap barrels.  I don't know about forging metals, but it was a treasure trove of weird parts for sculpture.  Another resource!  It helps to get out there.....

[BillyBones]

Nodebt, a lot of those parts in tranny's are high carbon. Like input and output shafts. Lots of bearings and races. Also any trans tech worth his salt goes after "low hanging fruit", that would be stuff like axles, sway bars, sway bar links, torsion bars, etc. When i was working trannys i would go after as much as i could, the more you spend on your car, the more money i made. If i noticed you were do for a brake job or even just an oil change i would write it up. 

I think Das used a lot of trans parts in the guitars he was building a while back.

There is also a lot of bronze and brass in tranny's too. 

Word of caution however, some parts in tranny's are chrome plated, especially standards, but are usually pretty easy to tell wich is which. Bright and shiney, chrome, mostly steel color except for wear areas, not plated. 

[Scott NC]

  Thanks, Billy.  I will look out for chrome and high carbon.  He had barrels of shafts, gears and whatnot.  But.... Stopping was a whim and I had no buckets, boxes or containers with me.  But I got his card and he even gave me the name and address of the company that gathers his metal.  Anyhow he said stop in anytime.  Good folks out there.  You can bet a box of Krispy Kreme Donuts will be called for.

[Will Brouwers]

Maybe,

As a beginner ( I first forged December 2020, and only get out to forge every month or so because I have no shop, or even a shade tree!) I can tell you that this forum is a blessing and somewhat of a curse. I tend to be a little obsessive when searching down answers to my problems and will easily spend hours on this site. There is a TON of wisdom to be gleaned, and help to be found, all online!

I would also recommend blacksmiths stores on line. My parents got me the universal German wolf jaw tongs that are 400 mm. Those are some dang good tongs. I would post the link, but the moderators would get after me! Also, because I was obsessing about blacksmithing, they bought me the German 1000 gram crosspein hammer. I think both of these tools cost somewhere around $35, and I would definitely recommend them. 

I bought my anvil off of marketplace, because I didn't feel like messing around with the 6lb. hammer head I had stuck in a piece of firewood. 

I wanted to use a charcoal forge and make my own charcoal to save money because I am a graduate student and am also Dutch (double whammy!) but where I currently live open fires aren't allowed, so I got the cheapest devil propane forge, which has served me pretty well. I have put somewhere around 25-35 hours on it and the brick floor is turning glassy, but that is because I am still trying to learn how to regulate the flow, sometimes it is too rich, and sometimes too lean and then the fire gets too hot and the stock starts scaling in the forge and everything goes to pot.

Anyway!

Then, stock. I am a scrapper/scavenger and am always looking on the sides of the road, in dumpsters, etc. I had only found scavenged steel until today, when I spent $5 of the first $20 I made on more steel. It was pretty cool selling some of my work to a good friend, and then going and feeding my addition lol!

I think that covers all my tools. When I bought my anvil, I did what Mr. Powers recommended and brought $100 more than what the anvil was listed for, because where there is one piece of blacksmithing equipment, there might be more! I ended up getting a nice post vise that I still have to mount up.

Before I end, I would 100% recommend buying the blacksmiths tongs, because they will help you to make more tongs, like the Ken's Custom Iron, the tongs aren't high carbon, so they can be quenched, and it is nice to start with good tools. Other than that, find a nice hammer at Lowes or some other store. I prefer a wooden handle, with the crappy coating sanded off and boiled linseed oil coated on it. Nothing else feels as good in the hand as that. 

Also, on the topic of online, watch Youtube!! Blackbear forge is my favorite Youtube blacksmith, but Essential Craftsman has some good blacksmithing videos, including one on how to start for under $100 (which wasn't my cup of tea lol) he also had some good tools tips in general though.

 

Whew! I am out of breath! I think this is my most long winded post yet!

 

Edit: I looked up to see what else I should reply to, and have no idea of vervor is a good anvil or not, but was going to say that Holland Anvil had some *not cheap* but good anvils, as well as some hardened pieces of H13 for sale. Just a thought...

As I hope you know, cast iron anvils are terrible, worse than a chunk of tough tool steel or equipment steel. Look for large shafts or pins or talk to people who might know how to get you what you need. 

[ThomasPowers]

I guess folks can call me "Sir"  now as I no longer work for a living...

[Goods]

Sir Thomas Powers does have a good ring to it…