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I Forge Iron

velegski

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  • Location
    Spokane Wa.
  • Interests
    Playing with hot metal

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  1. Just a heads up.. A swedge, even unsharped, the entire lenght of the spine "might" change your Skinner into a dagger in the eyes of the law in your state, and daggers are illegal in some states. Personally, I'm not a fan of full length swedges, particularly on skinners or hunters. I always end up choking up on the blade and that false edge digs into the fingers.
  2. Dew. 1. If someone mentions they had 1/4 inch scales hes talking about that a single scale that is 1/4 inch thick. Hence his total is 1/4+1/4+ blade thickness. 2. Personally I never tell the client what thickness scale was used. If they ask, I'll tell, but generally they are concerned with metal, maybe Rockwell hardness, Looks and feel. Buzzill's idea of fit is pretty much it. Does it feel right to you? Unless you've got over/undersized mitts, it should fit 90 % of the people. Now, if you run into someone who doesn't like the fit its a discussion point and you can then go into a sales pitch. Thomas mentioned having several different grip styles. I'll one one farther. If its the same blade style try several different handle materials. A finished wood feels different than micarta or G10. And the client might prefer the manmades over natural. Lastly as mentioned a knifes intended use comes into play. I just measured two knives. One a small 6.5 inch skinner. Its .60 inches at the ricasso, the other, a kitchen knife was .71 inches at thr ricasso. Both feel good for their intended use.
  3. Yes. To the slow down when grinding. If you've got a variable speed grinder turn it way down. If not, take 3-5 second grinds. Takes a little longer but doesn't kill the expoxies. You mentioned you grind until it feels hot. Thats probably too hot. A little online research will show that expoxies can start degrading at 140 F degrees with total failures at around 300 f (that's unless you are using special high temp expoxies). To give you an idea. Holding 140 f can cause burns in about 3 seconds. So just guesstimating, your hot feel is probably 120 f or hotter. I typically use a hair dryer to remove scales and for manufacturers safety reasons those rarely go above 140f.
  4. Surface prep is essential for any glue ups. Frosty hit on most everything I'd say. I use acetone to degrease and follow up with 70% isopropyl alcohol. Check to ensure that no additives other than H2O are in alcohol . Covid has people producing sugar alcohol that has glycerin and other additives. That creates a film which leads to epoxy failures. Also some acetone can leave a film on the metal. And what you use use to apply the acetone and alcohol can leave films. White paper powers will sometimes have chemicals that can contaminate the surfaces. I use those little cotton facial squares that women use for removing facial cream and stuff. As for epoxies. You might check out a topic on the knifenetwork called Glue wars. Two gentlemen spent a lot of time and money checking out approximately 15 different common knife makers epoxies. Interesting read on surface prep, and holding abilities.
  5. Might I suggest that in future inquiries you be more clear in your desires. Your desire to purchase a picture wasn't clear until your last post. And you mentioning you wanting to make a mini forge to build a sword in your opening post automatically raised the ire of the elders. To forge a sword with little or no experience is a possibility. However, for the vast majority of people it has a very remote possibility of success. Therefore the negative comments. The Lothric sword is to most sword makers, a fantasy based sword, the second is more traditional, but the quard is stylized. Anyways.. good luck with your endeavors
  6. I dont have any pictures. That said. A look at Peter Johnsson and how he constructs swords might be of benifit. Hes a European sword maker.. his book is expensive but reveals a great deal about sword construction. Also check out Bjorn Gylfason of Denmark. He produces some fine works.
  7. You need more specific quidance from boss. The term fleshing knife is vague and scary..A trapper uses a scraper to remove flesh from hides . After the hides off a trapper will seldom take a sharp blade to the flesh side.. Too much risk of slipping and cutting the hide.. that can reduce sale price. Just an online search for Pelt scrapers with show you the many variations of tools trappers use to remove flesh. Check out various trapper supply stores for better idea of what trappers/hiders typically use.. My personal favorite for smaller animals is a spoon with any sharp edges removed.
  8. Ted by closing your door she wins. As to H20 in the shop. I keep several quart and a couple of 750 ml water bottles in several places around the shop. With them around the areas where I do most of my work its easier to grab a quick sip and stay hydrated. People get busy and even though they are thirsty they'll refuse to walk across a house or across a shop to get water. I use quarts/ml to keep track of how much water I've drank. If on a hot day, or during forging, I haven't emptied a couple of bottles I know I'm dehydrated.
  9. JHCC. thanks for the input. I mistitled the Verhoevans book I've got. Its the one you mentioned. I'll be watching the MIT videos. The titles to his lesson looked interesting.
  10. JLP..Thanks for the info. I'll keep my eyes peeled for them. I've got Verhoevens book on metallurgy of knife steels. I never intended to get this deep into metallurgy but as I play at making knives and tools I find I need to understand some basics in metallurgy. This thread is an example. I had an idea of the reasons for alloys in metal, however I didn't know how they played in the heat treat process. I'll probably never need the real science behind it but its nice to know. Besides it impresses the heck out of the nephews that the old codger knows this stuff. You never know when dual phase steel might be the Double jeopardy answer. Thanks
  11. JLP. it forced me to dig deeper into metallurgy, alloys, and some of the terms commonly thrown around. You mentioned your reference Book earlier. Which one are you referring to. I need a good desk top steel reference book. As an aside. I had the privilege of watching a master Smith demonstrate forge welding a Tulip. I guess that's where the... unless its not aspect comes in. Truly astonishing.
  12. So. Is there a purpose behind this. It appears that you want someone to conduct specific specific research on some low carbon steels but whats its end use. I mean I'm not going to waste my time trying to make a cold chisel out of 1020. I personally only know of a very few people in this realm have the tools and equipment to ascertain the martensite conversion levels and they are too busy conducting analysis for themselves. It would probably be easier for you to contact a metallurgy company with the proper equipment in your home country for your experiment.
  13. Dian. Thanks. This got me to doing some research into how various alloys effect steel....So as to the idea that if you increased the Silicon in low carbon steel you could do away tool steel. NOPE. As Mr. Sells pointed out it takes carbon to form martensite. After some research I found that silicon does aid in the transformation of existing carbon into martensite and austenite in carbon steels. BUT , it doesn't make martensite or austenite. Its rather interesting to read how silicon effects the strength and hardening of carbon steels regardless of the carbon content. Also interesting to see how Silicon effects the formation of martensite and austenite through the temperature spectrum.
  14. Well said JHCC, I strive for outstanding in my creations but often my skill sets are lacking to achieve that goal. As for FIF. What can I say. Its entertaining and yet frustrating.. Its tests are outlandish but as demonstrated by show after show, they are survivable. I've been amazed by the quality of some weapons and shocked at what others have turned in. It caused an explosion in the number of bladesmiths. Some are making quality blades while others are passing off junk.. Lastly it has tended to give potential customers unrealistic expectation of the blades we make, the time it takes to create, and costs. They expect the indestructible, in two days and all that under 50$. But like I said its entertaining.
  15. Harbinger. I would suggest that you follow the normalizing and annealing temps and techniques of full time knifemakers rather than survivalist. For instance, one document suggests that the normalizing temps for 5160 are 1600F while the annealing temp is in the 1250F range. Another uses a higher 1550f annealing range. Of course im fat fingered that one. Meant to say I'm not talking about any of the annealing techniques. Everyone has their own favorite cooling technique. Sorry. Missed your real question. Just heat it up again, keeping below your quench temps. Just have a straightening system ready after your quench. It might decide to bend again after quench.
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