JHCC Posted January 22 Share Posted January 22 Progress on mounting brackets for the railing project. Also jury-rigged a sanding belt splitter out of two pieces of angle iron, three C-clamps, and an old sawzall blade: Which worked fine: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
White Fox Forge Posted January 22 Share Posted January 22 My new design for railroad spike tomahawks. I welded two together for more metal. I like this better than my first attempts. I also welded up some cable damascus which turned out wonderfully. Don't have any finished pics of that tho. I love working with cable damascus. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted January 22 Share Posted January 22 You know what hey say about a job well done, Alex. They give you more. Lit up, the shelves sure dominate the wall don't they? Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nobody Special Posted January 22 Share Posted January 22 Wife's been after me about how we still haven't been casting yet, so I made a couple of small flasks today in preparation. After I finish a few flasks, gonna make a molding table and a riddle. Then I've got to make a run to the junkyard and pick up a busted transmission case or something to break down for the aluminum. I was thinking of going through the Dave Gingery book series with her. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BillyBones Posted January 22 Share Posted January 22 Think i may have saved my nephews life today. He was in his garage working on his truck and to heat it he had his new torpedo heater. Big old nice thing that had his garage up to about 80*F in almost no time. However he was running it with a 20# propane tank. The tank froze up, the heat started dying so his solution... turn the tank upside down to "flow better". I am no propane expert but i am pretty sure that is quite a bad idea. Anyway. Did some of the smallest work i have ever done. A couple more parts for the latch i am making. Would have finished it today but messed up the backing plate. But here is the keeper and lifting knob. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les L Posted January 22 Share Posted January 22 Billy, good catch with your nephew. Did you tell him he needs a larger tank to keep it from freezing up? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BillyBones Posted January 22 Share Posted January 22 Yes i did. I also suggested floating the tank. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JHCC Posted January 22 Share Posted January 22 Two good catches: one safety, one hardware. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
George N. M. Posted January 22 Share Posted January 22 IMO, your nephew also needed a dummy slap to get his attention before you said, What were you thinking of??!! You weren't were you!!??" And then another dummy slap at the end to make sure the information was absorbed. GNM Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted January 22 Share Posted January 22 WOW! This post disappeared on me about time I wanted to submit it. My machine got hinky, Stoopud Google Chrome! Then this morning Iforge has an issue for a while and takes a while to settle down when it comes back online. And VIOLA! My unsent reply to this thread is in my text window unlike 15 minutes ago! I'm sending it off now, hopefully before it vanishes into the PetROMS again. I think you may be right Billy! I don't know what a torpedo heater would do pumping liquid propane into it but an older one may not have safety valves to prevent it. I'm thinking CO production would sky rocket. Pun intended. Maybe take your nephew to a vacant lot with a weed burner and show him what happens if you turn the tank over. I'm thinking doing it with the heater might damage it so wouldn't demo with it. MAN that's a nice flask Nobody. In school we just sifted the sand into the flask for the first lift so detail came out clear. There was one end of sand tempering box for the freshly broken out mold sand to give it time to regain moisture then we'd break it up and do a rough riddle with screens. Man this is bringing back memories from high school and the late 60s! Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les L Posted January 22 Share Posted January 22 Billy, it may help to inform him that the expansion rate of propane from liquid to vapor is 270 to 1. I found that it helps people understand why using a small bottle, pulling a large amount freezes, plus what can happen if you start pulling the liquid to an ignition source Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Irondragon Forge ClayWorks Posted January 22 Share Posted January 22 1 hour ago, Frosty said: Then this morning Iforge has an issue for a while and takes a while to settle I think it was an update to version 5... appears to have gone smooth. I can't control the wind, all I can do is adjust my sail’s. Semper Paratus Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
White Fox Forge Posted January 23 Share Posted January 23 I finished up the handle on my tomahawk. Surprisingly the handle was harder to make than the head. It throws super nicely too! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nobody Special Posted January 23 Share Posted January 23 6 hours ago, Frosty said: MAN that's a nice flask Nobody. Frosty The Lucky. Don't look at me, thank the box store. Couldn't find the 1x4s I wanted to save my life, but they had pretty 5/4" x 4 cedar board at low enough prices to make me blink. The rest is just the magic of drywall screws. Like the hawk, WFF. Any pics of how the cable came out so far? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
White Fox Forge Posted January 23 Share Posted January 23 Thanks Nobody! I'll have to take some when im in the shop next. I'm having trouble getting the watering right but I also forgot to quench the cable damasucs lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BillyBones Posted January 23 Share Posted January 23 I would also bet that somewhere in the instruction manual it says something along the lines of "use a minimum of XXX# tank". I just got a new convection heater for my shop and when buying it i made sure that it was compatible with a 20# tank. Huh, that did not post earlier. Frosty, it was a brand new heater so it may be idiot proof. But then again i have noticed that idiots always find a way so nothing is really idiot proof. George, i have slapped that boy in the noggin more times than i can count. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
George N. M. Posted January 23 Share Posted January 23 Billy, you can make something fool proof but you can't make it damfool proof. Unfortunately, incidents like this are often pure darwinian natural selection at work. Your nephew may be working himself up to a Darwin Award. There are some folk who truly are unable to foresee consequences. Too bad because sometimes they are otherwise good people. They just need adult supervision more than the rest of us. GNM Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gewoon ik Posted January 23 Share Posted January 23 Doorhandle for my front door. But with a bit tweeking, i noticed a crack in one of the bends (inside). Also the bends look rough, rimpeled. Will probably make again and do the bending and tweeking hotter. Was very happy with how the twist came out, very evenly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted January 23 Share Posted January 23 Pretty nice door handle, I like it. I have a couple thoughts about the bends. Just heating and bending, round especially, tends to distort it's cross section. The outside of the bend is longer than the inside so the inside rumples up with the steel forced into a smaller volume. The outside requires a LOT more steel than is there so it stretches out and forms the flattened 45 like yours did. This is a lot easier to correct for using square stock, upset the bend section and forge the excess steel into the outside of the bend as you bend it. You can probably do the same with round but might want to use a swage for the inside so you can move the steel from the wrinkles to the outside of the curve. The outside of the bend takes more correction because it is a much larger volume. This is where upsetting the bend comes in giving you the extra steel to start with. Also making the bends a wider radius really helps, even 6mm radius gives the steel more room to bend smoothly. I'm sure there are better smiths than I out there rolling their eyes and that's okay, I'll be absorbing other methods like a sponge. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gewoon ik Posted January 23 Share Posted January 23 I agree on the "sharpness" of the bend. I also prefer to have a bigger radius, but somehow they bend that short. Both without jig. Stick the rounded part in my hardyhole and it was 90 degrees in no time. And my testpiece, same. It was square, but i fullered it and also to round because i like the look. The explanation of the length of deformation makes sense. I heated the part in my gasforge and cooled the rounded part so it doesnt deform. Side effect, the fullered part is not yellow but orange-red. Maybe that is the problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike BR Posted January 23 Share Posted January 23 Am I understanding right that you put a fuller at each end of the pineapple twist? That's what it looks like in the picture. If so, the steel will bend in the fuller (only) so a short fuller means a short, sharp bend. Next time, work out how to make a wider fuller (perhaps making a double fuller and setting down the ridge between with your hammer). That should permit you to make a wider radius bend. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted January 24 Share Posted January 24 Gewoon: Make a bending fork so you can control the radius of your bends. For example bend a length of 12mm round like a hair pin leaving enough space it will fit corner to corner in your hardy hole with say 30-50mm of each half extending above the anvil face. That is with enough down in the hardy hole it doesn't wobble. Then open the halves enough it can't fall through the hardy hole and a working space you like. You can adjust as you go so I'm not going to even try and say how wide they should be apart but you must have more space than the thickness of the stock you wish to bend. Yes? Okay, heat the bar stock and placing it in the fork you can bend it. Yes? Make several small bends close together to make a larger radius bend. Make sense? Here they're often called "scrolling forks". If you make a set of similar forks 90* on the end of a handle, "A scrolling wrench" you can use both together to make precise bends and scrolls. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
White Fox Forge Posted January 24 Share Posted January 24 Nice twist gewoon. Looks really good. Nobody, I took a pic of the cable damascus. Forged it into a puuko. I didn't harden it so I didn't get a good etch. You can kinda see the pattern though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BillyBones Posted January 24 Share Posted January 24 Gewoon, that is a nice twist. Much better than i can do. Mike is also right about the bend. It will bend in the fullered spots. That is a pretty tough bend to make. You may want to look but i am sure that their is a ratio somewhere that will say if you have "X" diameter of material you can only do "X" radius of bend. Then you can figure out how long of a fullered section you will need to make a 90* bend with the diameter of material you have. For example if "X" diameter can make a 1" radius bend, 2" diameter, you will need 61/4", 1/4 of that for a 90* bend, so ~ 1 1/2" of fullered section. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gewoon ik Posted January 24 Share Posted January 24 The bend in the fullered area is the intention. I bended it also by cooling the rounded part and the twisted part so that only the fullered part was orange-red (after all the cooling), to make sure it bended in the fullered part. But reading all the comments, even when everything is yellow, it will still bend in the fullered part. so maybe not cool everything that much and bend it so there is more heat left in the part that needs to bend to see if the stays nicer. the twist is done is 20mm (or you would start with 3/4", exact 13/16") square and I fullered to 12 or 13mm (+/- 1/2"). Maybe less fullering would also help, go to 15 or 16mm (+/- 5/8") instead. My used (spring)fuller has a diameter of 18mm (for you probably also 3/4" exact 11/16"). Billy there is yes, at least for piping I know Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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