Mike BR

You can see it about 3/4 of the way down here:https://www.dr.dk/nyheder/webfeature/brand-i-borsen-fra-alarm-til-sidste-gloeder

I enjoyed the Hagley (especially the old powder mill) when I was up that way years ago.

Wheels first doesn't seem that unusual. Just don't put it before the horse.

It's a lot cheaper to replace one layer than two when the inside wears.

Last week, I was watching one of those makeover shows, and the homeowner had mounted a TV on the end of the stub wall that separated their living room and dining room, so you could swivel it either way. The host was making fun of it, because whichever way you turned it, it stuck out pretty far into the passage between the rooms. I kept thinking: If one had a couple of short lengths of heavy roller chain. . .

I had a friend who made mild steel hammers for driving punches and chisels. Kept the struck tools from mushrooming, though the hammer became a consumable.

Wrapping bare copper wire around a steel stack sounds like a big short circuit. But maybe the dissimilar metals and the temperature difference between the stack and the battery would set up some form of thermocouple?

I think I’d hold out for a motor sickle.

What is the world coming to? I go 56 years blissfully ignorant about any drunken herbivores. Then yesterday I watch something about Tycho Brahe's moose, and today I learn about Tusko

I probably shouldn't jump into this, but hardware store "boiled" linseed oil contains driers -- metal salts that catalyze polymerization. These remain toxic even after the product has hardened. You can get true boiled linseed oil, without the driers, as a specialty product.

Looking at the bright side, if it did have LH threads, there's a good chance it will be for sale again soon.

The magnetic field from the welding current could possibly damage (demagnetize) the chuck. I’d avoid grounding through the chuck, and try to set up the ground clamp to keep current as far from the chuck as possible.

The stop block on my fly press has left-hand threads. If I’m not imagining things, I see them in one of your pictures as well. In any event, I suggest checking before you order the faceplate. If the threads do match, you might need to cut away the “plate” part of the faceplate to get the nut part flexible enough to clamp down evenly.

I'm guessing you can't grind for long before plain ol' Chuck turns into Charlie the Chia Pet. I'm O.K corralling swarf, of course, but I'm curious: Does it drop right off when you turn off the magnet? Get in the way sometimes?

I'm pretty sure pliers are hardened; after all the jaws need to bite into whatever you're plying. But you haven't said what you plan to use yours for, so they might or might not need to be hard. A good starting point is to heat them a little above non-magnetic, then quench in oil. Or better still, do that with one of the pieces you cut off, and set the tool itself aside until you hit a combination that gives you what you're looking for.