Well i got my mobile setup back up and running today. Started to make a blacksmith's knife had the blade about shaoed out and then my wife distracted me and i overheated my piece and burnt the tio right off. So i switched to practicing drawing out and curving the handle part to wrap back up towards blade. Then ran out of propane in first tank and decided to call it a day. It was very hot all fay with sun beating down on me and made me think about getting some kind of thermometer for forge hard to see metal colors in direct sunlight. But very happy with my day now to keep at it. Akl the time i was not doing doeant help but ill take it just glad to be hammering again.

Back in the saddle again!

(And remember: knifemakers don’t make mistakes; they just make smaller knives.)

I was afraid i had overheated the entire piece of metal so i abandoned for now and had a miss strike on the wrong part of my anvil to have a miss strike and created a small divet. So decided to put that piece down and just use a piece of metal to practice the handle. Glad i did have to figure out how to do what i want and learned that i need some tools still and need to have different plan of attack. Couldnt figure out how to do what i wanted. But had a excellent day learning from my mistakes. Want to be able to make something close to this eventually. Might be to advanced for me still so i will keep practicing.  Also need proper anvil stand my stump is not hapoy after winter.

Sure you're rusty after being away from the anvil for a while but it'll come back more quickly than you think. 

A couple tips, everybody has trouble judging color in direct sunlight, I can tell when it's ready to go back in the fire but I'm only making an educated guess when I pull it out. Soooo, an effective trick is a shadow box under the forge. A steel can works well and lasts a lot longer than wood or such. Paint a 5 gal. steel bucket blat black inside and place it where you can stick your project in, the dark space will give you a much better look at the color. 

This is a general rule of thumb planning the sequences of steps to forge a thing. The thinner the steel in the fire the FASTER it will heat and more likely to burn. Yes? Sooooo, do all the heavy/thick work first leaving the light/thin for last. 

Anther rule of thumb for blades is. Forge thick, grind thin. You'll have to grind anyway so leave enough meat little mistakes won't ruin the piece. 

Good to see you posting again Brother. Be careful in the heat, stay hydrated, maybe work after dark if the neighbors aren't too close.

Frosty The Lucky.

Handled the ax in hickory and then goofed off hacking up wood.

Actually, I find forging in the twilight, either evening or morning, to be very satisfying.  This is particularly true in the summer when it is too hot during the day.  If you can stand to get up early the morning twilight and the early daylight is the coolest time of the day.  You can get in a reasonable amount of forge time before it gets uncomfortably hot.

This is applicable at lower altitudes.  Here at 7500' there are only a few days in the summer where it is too hot to work in the shop.  The absolute record high in Laramie is 94 degrees and we are about 300' higher than the official recording station.

"By hammer and hand all arts do stand."

Frosty how are you? Glad to be back to hammering and posting. Think i might need to simplify my design for first attempt. Might try my hand at forge weld have mild steel i could use 1 piece on each side of a piece of smaller coil spring i have in middle  give me the beef i need to have a thicker billet.  I know forge welds can be tuff but never learn if dont try. Time to get a plan for next session.

Edited June 13, 20223 yr by Mod34
Edited for inappropriate language

Rojo Thanks

JHCC  Looking at that saddle in the vise, I'm thinking inside curve on a 90 or 45 degree piece of black pipe?

lary, those are pieces cut from the side of the dishing form in the same post, which I made from the bottom of a big welding tank (about 10" in diameter). I notched the sides so that it would fit into my swage block stand, as you can see in this closeup:

 

I worked on a new grill for my cast iron grill.  The old one was cast iron and had broken several places so I figured it was time to bite the bullet and make a mild steel (or A-36) one.  Got the rim bent, 3/8" sq stock, rounded ends and straight sides---sort of.  Lots of walking back and forth from where the grill is mounted and the forge; but finally was in a state to rivet the ends together and do a little final tweaking.  All the cross pieces will have to wait till I get back from AR.

Been working on the chest some more, installed the hardware! Now to finish it by making the bottom part and it's done!

I'm thinking about it's use, it was originally for storing cast iron cookware and taking it with me when camping. But now I'm thinking of a small tool chest to store my woodworking tools, especially the planes since they are just standing against the wall now. We'll see when it's finished.

I've also been working on an axe, it's nearly done so I'll take some pics when it's all ready.

~Jobtiel

Nice!

Job, will there be a hand made lock on it?  

I don't know if it matters what you put in it, it's very attractive. 

Frosty The Lucky.

Thanks guys! I'm still sort of working on a very simple lock after getting inspired by some videos, I can always cut out the recess for the lock when I finish it, but I do want to make one. Of course, gotta make a few tools first ;).

Check out "Viking" locks and keys, they're a natural for a chest.

Frosty The Lucky.

Made a small basket twist S hook.   I went with 3/8 inch round stock and 1/8 round for the basket.  5 inch length on each end and the basket was cut to 3 inch.    I used my stick welder, much more reliable than forge welding for me.  Since it was so hot today I mainly stuck with project prep.  

Jobtiel1 I really enjoy looking at the combination of blacksmithing and wood working skills. Thanks for posting.

Chad J. that's funny you posted that basket twist s hook, I've been working on the same thing with similar welding technique. I'm to cheap to run my little gas forge up to 20psi to find out if it will forge weld. Not to mention the destruction of the lining after the use of borax. One of these days I'll have to start forging with coal. Lots of great stuff on this thread.

My little horbart did just fine and leaves it hot enough still to work the ends to what I want.  I tried forge welding again over the weekend in my coal forge.   No dice.   It's getting plenty hot,  lemon yellow with sparks just starting but maybe I'm not getting it clean.   I'm going to have to go watch Jennifer's chain making video again to see what I did wrong.  But I want to try and get to a couple craft sales this summer and I'm in a push to get stuff finished

Made a bunch of keychains and finished a knife I’ve been working on today. I’m quite happy with how they turned out

vulpine forge is that a folder ? also what did you use for handle material

Not very blacksmithy, but a quick holder for some punches. Still haven't figured out how to attach a cleat so I can hang it on the wall when I'm not using them, but shouldn't be too tricky.

Can you  detach two of the cooper tubes and drill screw holes through the angle iron? I like the look of it.

You can make a couple wall hanger type cleats from a thin slice of copper tubing and solder them to the tool holder tubes.

Frosty The Lucky.