I'm actually under the edge of a ... Uh. I don't know the word. It's attached to my motorcycle shop, so it has that wall, and a back wall, with other two sides open. The forge sits near the edge for ventilation until I get the back corner cleaned out and can relocate (and build a hood). I use a tarp for the wall on the outer side but it's plastic stuff and I keep hot things away from it. It's just to keep the weather off my coal, sand, and scrap. With fall here I'm working to move the forge in more for warmth. 

That actually brings up a question I've been meaning to ask... Is corrugated roofing tin galvanized? It's old stuff, dad built the shop when I was a tot, and I need to know if I have to worry about heat around it. The whole building is just a wood frame with tin over it.

Think you'd get it over 500 degrees F? I think it's over that even that zinc would burn off , around 800F?, so as long as it's not getting that hot I doubt you'd have to worry. All depends what you are using it for. 

The temps you have to worry about for the corrugated metal is above the temperature that the wood will catch on fire by several hundred degreesF  worry about that instead.

So i got my new to me forge tonight and couldn't wait to have a go. Had a bit of trouble getting used to it but got there in the end. Got it all setup ready to go tomorrow.

Thanks, Das and Thom. I was just checking for safety reasons.

That's a neat forge Zero. What are you using for air? Is the thing underneath some sort of blower? Very interesting looking!

I am using a hair dryer with a dimmer switch as the air source. The bit underneath is the original manual blower it would be great except it has been burnt out at some point in its past. But i might be able to fix at some point.

Painted my demo anvil stand. It has flat gear feet but nuts welded in so I can screw in spikes if I'm on a soil surface for added stability.  I'll give this a try this weekend to see how it works out. It was made for my ~100# mouse hole anvil. It doesn't need the chain but it's added stability. Chain is attached with bolts and wing nuts for easy setup and tear down. 

Also made a demo vise stand but it needs some additions and work yet. Good enough to try out this weekend tho. Again with the flat base. I can stand on it and it won't move around but on a soil surface I can use the 3 spikes to pin it down. Easily removable with the d ring on the loop on top of the spike but it can lay flat so I don't trip over it. I want to add chisel holders and hammer holders yet. Also the plate warped on me a bit so I need to straighten that out but it needs a test run first. 

Nice stand! Great design for the feet.

Thanks C-1. I've been toying with the idea for a while. Finally getting a chance to proof it. 

Good luck Zero!

Das, excellent looking stand, though the feet scream trip hazard (to me) if you have to raise it very high. Did you keep the teeth on them for aesthetics?

Greetings Das,

          Slick set up..  Now for the good ol boys 2c...  I would drill 1/2 holes in the gear feet for some drive in stakes .. Ya never know you might run into some clay or sandy soil and you might want a deeper hold.. Your anvil looks rock solid and probably won't need the chain. Next I. Would move the hammer / tong rings on the close side to under the horn than make a thinner tray for cut offs and chisels. I have made several set ups and found the hammers and tongs on the close side just seem to get in the way.. Wish I was there for the christening..  Have fun..

Forge on and make beautiful things 

Jim

I kept the teeth for aesthetics. With or without spikes depending on the ground the gears will sit at ground level and not be trip hazards. 

Got done a new design for candle holders. (At least I think it's new  - please, if you've seen this shape before, let me know!)

Bests:

Gergely

Thanks Jim.  The spikes should suffice but that's what the testing is for. I really appreciate the advise and will keep iron mind. None of this is set in stone and can be cut and re welded. ( best thing about working in metal  ) I already need to rework the wheels on the vise stand to extend out further otherwise it sits too low to the ground to really wheel it in grass/dirt. I really appreciate the ideas, They make a lot of sense. 

Great feet on that anvil stand Das. Easy to see you are a scrap art specialist!

Plough share set up on the leg vice is a neat move too.

I should make something similar. My daily demos are in a set location, but I have two outside demos coming up in the next fortnight. My home forge is light enough to move but the anvil stump and vice are the major problems. You have given me some ideas!

Nice setup Das.  If your doing demo's in our area maybe sometime I can come help you out or just keep you company.  I can be a good grunt.

Gergely; I like that candle holder design.  I think that design would be good for one of those stick incense holders/burners.

Aus, I had been wanting to make a 3 leg anvil stand for a while so I figured the demo stand would be the perfect time. Oh, and there is a thin rubber mat under the anvil too. Seems to help kill any ring and the anvil is surprisingly quiet. Then again the old mousehole wasn't much of a ringer to begin with. I also plan on making an expanded metal shelf on the cross beams with some motorcycle chain as an outer lip, but that will have to wait for now. 

Joe, I'll let you know. Company is welcome. Strikers as well  

I like the curled bark candle holders as well Gergely. And the incense holder idea as well. 

Das, sorry, should have realized you had already thought about it and tested it! I like the table with chain idea.

Gergely, the patterning in those candle holders is beautiful. 

No worries Randell. It's always good to point out potential problems. 

Thank you, Guys, for the nice words!

My original idea was the incense holder, I just thought it wouldn't be that popular around here. (But I'll give it a shot anyway from thinner stock.)

Language related question: curly bark sounds amazing for identifying it, but I actually wanted to picture some pine shavings that curl at the thin end. Do you have any word in English for the thicker pieces of shavings? 

And as for today shop work: proceed with some knives, but the bigger half of the day went to restoring tractor parts for my father-in-law. I badly damaged my hammer hand with a piece of wood which was struck by my brother-in-law with a sledge. The wood kicked back and injured the hand part where the thumb gets its strength. (Can't find better words, sorry. The lowest region of the thumb.) No wound but the inner tissues suffered nicely. I really hope I can hold a hammer tomorrow because at Friday I have demo to do...

Bests:

Gergely

Curly bark or shavings sounds right if I'm thinking of the right thing. I know it's what I call pieces that come off when I'm using a draw knife and it produces long thin curly bits.

Sorry Gergely, I can't think of a better term. I hope you heal up quick for your demo. My brother is good for injuring me when he helps out but it's usually hitting me in the head lol. 

Das, your demo anvil stand looks great. One thing I did notice right off the bat were the rings for your hammers. When I made my anvil stand I had rings just like yours. Made them out of cut-off pieces of pipe. Not long after using them I noticed that when putting the hammers back into the rings that the edges were chewing up the hammer handles. I tried filing the edges a bit rounded, but that didn't help much. I finally took them off and replaced them with rings made from 3/8" round rod...no more chewed up hammer handles. (Now, I need to find a use for all the old rings welded in rows!)

Thanks Arkie. Hmm. Good point. Plastidip might be in order. Can't wrap anything around it like small hose cut lengthwise because of the way I welded them on. So probably plastidip. 

Plastidip might just work.  That way you wouldn't have to remake the holders.  I've used that a lot and it works for all kinds of things.  When I make a trivet that uses round or square rod for the feet, I often dip about 1/2" of the end in plastidip so it won't mar the user's fine wood table tops.