foundryguy Posted December 18, 2017 Share Posted December 18, 2017 Pouring an anvil soon as I found an old pattern in my foundry. Weight will be between 85 and 100 lbs and will be poured out of H13 tool steel. Should the hardie hole on an anvil that size be 3/4 or 1 inch? Should the hole have a taper or a straight square through the part. I need to build a corebox this week and would appreciate any opinions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave51B Posted December 18, 2017 Share Posted December 18, 2017 My 100 lb. A&H has a 7/8" straight through hardie hole... Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JHCC Posted December 18, 2017 Share Posted December 18, 2017 If it were me, I'd play it safe and go with 3/4", unless the face were very wide and could accommodate the full 1" without creating a significant weak spot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hotshoein4 (Mark) Posted December 18, 2017 Share Posted December 18, 2017 I would do 1" straight square through Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JHCC Posted December 18, 2017 Share Posted December 18, 2017 28 minutes ago, foundryguy said: Should the hole have a taper or a straight square through the part. Straight. If anything, a slight flare (making it a bit wider at the bottom than at the top) to help prevent jamming. 2 minutes ago, Dave51B said: My 100 lb. A&H has a 7/8" straight through hardie hole... Dave As does my 148 lb. Mousehole. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
George Geist Posted December 18, 2017 Share Posted December 18, 2017 Majority of them are usually 7/8" George Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
C-1ToolSteel Posted December 18, 2017 Share Posted December 18, 2017 Yes, I wouldn't do a full inch. My 150 lb Hay Budden has a 7/8" hole that is plenty big. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daswulf Posted December 18, 2017 Share Posted December 18, 2017 My 127# Trenton and 123# hay budden have 7/8" hardy holes. Tho I think I might prefer 1" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JME1149 Posted December 18, 2017 Share Posted December 18, 2017 The Hay Budden catalog shows 40 to 100 lb anvils with 3/4" hardie and 7/16" pritchel; 125 - 150 lb anvils with 7/8" hardie and 9/16" pritchel, but I would think it depends on the face width being able to support a larger hardie hole. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tubalcain2 Posted December 18, 2017 Share Posted December 18, 2017 My Soderfors #10 is 160lbs and has a 1 1/4 inch HH. That is real big for an anvil in this weight, however. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
foundryguy Posted December 18, 2017 Author Share Posted December 18, 2017 OK, I am going to go with 7/8. I do not care to take the time to calculate the weight but we are thinking 90 lbs? Here is a pic of the tool. I added my company logo. Have a fine day and thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted December 18, 2017 Share Posted December 18, 2017 I would NOT flair towards the bottom as if a student jams a hardy tool in there and then hammers on the stem end to drive it out they can then rivet it in place! Straight sides! (and as many pieces of hardy tooling came with 1" shanks...) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JHCC Posted December 18, 2017 Share Posted December 18, 2017 Ooh, good point. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted December 18, 2017 Share Posted December 18, 2017 Lets just say I have taught a class or two, Even if you have the anvils and the hardy tooling colour coded students don't seem to be able to retain the idea that a tool may not fit every anvil's hardy hole. (exp: A loose 1" stem gets pounded into a 7/8 hardy hole...) (and if you look at one of my hardies you will see where I took it and forged the end of the shank down to provide a protruding end to be tapped out of a tight hardy hole without upsetting it into a monolithic solid) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JHCC Posted December 18, 2017 Share Posted December 18, 2017 My problem is that my hardy hole is slightly out of square (27/32" x 29/32"), so I have to make sure my hardies fit in both directions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted December 18, 2017 Share Posted December 18, 2017 No; your problem is that you have not dressed your hardy hole square. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JHCC Posted December 18, 2017 Share Posted December 18, 2017 Trust me: that's the least of my problems. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted December 18, 2017 Share Posted December 18, 2017 An out of square hardy hole isn't much of a problem, I have yet to meet a blacksmith that was really plumb and square. Were I casting an anvil I'd go with 1" almost every bottom tool I've found has a 7/8" or 1" shank on it. The 7/8" shank tools work just dandy in a 1" hole. The other way? not so. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JHCC Posted December 18, 2017 Share Posted December 18, 2017 You can always make an adapter or a shim to fit a small hardy in a large hole. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Judson Yaggy Posted December 19, 2017 Share Posted December 19, 2017 My vote is for straight 1" as well. Healthy majority (and I've seen a lot) of antique hardy tools I've seen have been 1". My first anvil was a 125# Peter Wright with a factory 1 1/4" hh. No problem, the horn was more beat than the hole. If casting out of h-13 you could probably have a 2" hh in a 75 pound anvil and if everything else was done correctly have no problems. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DuEulear Posted December 19, 2017 Share Posted December 19, 2017 H13 is dandy but will you ever heat your anvil up to red heat in use ? If you have your choice of high alloy steel i would go with s-7 as it will be more sutid to an anvil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
foundryguy Posted February 14, 2018 Author Share Posted February 14, 2018 I finally have 5 of these cast. Machined top and bottom, i just need to drill the Pritchel hole in them and get them hardened to 52-55 Rc. They are 85 lbs and 19.5 inches long. Material cast H13 tool steel. Made in Michigan! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John in Oly, WA Posted February 14, 2018 Share Posted February 14, 2018 Nice work! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SFC Snuffy Posted February 16, 2018 Share Posted February 16, 2018 That's awesome, and those are lovely! I passed through Holland on my way to visit my sister at Christmas; I wish I could have stopped by to see your operation. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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