JME1149

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About JME1149

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    Pittsburgh-ish, PA

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  1. Das, what I really enjoy about your creations (and Ausfire's too) is when I take a second and third look, I always seem to find some new detail I missed the last time through. Like the dozen butter knives used as the underside feathers. Love your creativity and execution, and looking forward to seeing the completed armor-dillo.
  2. From what I can see, the only restoration needed is to start hitting hot metal on it. Please don't grind, weld, or machine anything of that beauty. Wire wheel and a coat of oil maybe, but anything more aggressive than that could do more harm than good.
  3. Body shape looks like Trenton or HB, that marking was typical of Trenton, but usually located on the front side, under the horn. Maybe the reversed the base when they bolted it on. Other than the waist being missing, looks like it saw very little use, the corners are sharp as is the nose. Just need to build a taller stand.
  4. That turned out pretty nice and is going to be a lasting symbol of some quality father & son time. What more could you ask for?
  5. Donniev, that's a Champion 400. Do a search under the Bellows section here, lots of good information already posted. If it turns smoothly without a lot of grinding noise, there's really no reason to take it apart and you may do more harm than good by taking it apart. They can be finicky to put back together to get the proper alignment that has worn in over 100 years of service. No grease required, add a little oil occasionally and it will splash around to lube everything. If you do choose to open it up, the top cover has two screws. Remove those and SLIDE the cover toward the back of the gear housing. SLIDE back, do not pry up or you will break the casting.
  6. Thanks for sharing. I think I enjoy seeing your approach to tooling and the forging process you go through as much as I appreciate the end product. Watching people of your caliber work inspires me to try to do better myself.
  7. Very nice, I personally like the bold contrast of the low layer count.
  8. Thank you for sharing, very informative and well delivered presentation. Another vote for sticky!
  9. Yes, please.
  10. I like the bow tie design, haven't seen that style before. Now if you could tie the knot, that would be really impressive.
  11. This is something I've been wondering about lately, do you drift the taper only from one side (the top), or is it drifted from both the top & bottom for the hourglass shape as Swedefiddle indicated?
  12. That's a fine looking blade Das. The pattern shows up very well. I can't tell from the photos, did you insert a piece of copper tube in for the lanyard hole? If not, it might be a good way to protect the little chunk of wood behind the hole.
  13. Very nice, can always count on you for something creative and unique. Any reason in particular for the orientation of the tang, or is it a "just because I can" thing?
  14. Another approach that avoids the forge welding entirely would be to cut a 4 pound piece of the spring, then re-shape it to a hammer blank size block. For example, a 1" thick X 3" wide X 4-3/4" long piece could be re-shaped to a 2" Dia X 4-1/2" long hammer blank. No need to add mass, just move the volume to where you need it. Of course this all depends on the tools available, such as power hammer or striker, and your determination.
  15. Depends on which side of the door you are standing.