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I Forge Iron


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About JME1149

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    Pittsburgh-ish, PA

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  1. One piece should be roughly one pound, so depends on how big of a hammer you want. For a general forging hammer, probably want to forge weld 3 - 4 pieces together into one block then start the shaping process. I would think squaring each up then attaching two together (twice) then attaching those together would be the way I would approach it.
  2. Welcome to the family Bill. This is a good place to learn and get inspiration from, just make sure you do a little research first before you post questions that probably have been answered a hundred times before. PA has several blacksmithing groups to help guide you on your journey, depending upon which side of the state you are closer to and whenever they allow us to start having meetings again. Looks like you've got a nice start on the equipment, everything you showed looks to be in decent shape, although you didn't show us the anvil. It's never too late to start learning.
  3. My guess is a Trenton farriers anvil. The caplet shape on the bottom is the main clue, along with the placement of the serial number. As far as the marks go, maybe they are from beating cold metal. Don't do any more grinding to the face as this will remove the hardened surface, overall looks to be in pretty good condition.
  4. This would be a good place to start.
  5. My guess would be either Trenton or Arm & Hammer. Would be nice to see the bottom surface to help narrow down the brand, but being secured to the stump will prevent that. Best bet is to check the side for brand markings or look at the front foot edge for stamped serial numbers.
  6. My guess would be that it is the stationary side of a bench vise, with the tail of the anvil acting as one of the jaws.
  7. ...or when the call has ended, but hasn't quite been disconnected, and your team starts discussing what they really think of the other team.
  8. Wire wheel would be my preferred method, possibly a light pass with a flap wheel to remove some of the paint from the sides, protect with BLO. Use a respirator, no telling how old that paint is and if it's lead based or not. Get us a picture of the bottom surface and front foot, could provide more clues to the identity.
  9. Looks like either Hay Budden or Trenton to me (thin tail). Based on my HB catalog, 6" wide X 23" long face with a 14.5" long horn puts it at 400 pounds. At CA$800, that sounds like a good deal if it passes all the tests and if you need an anvil that big.
  10. I'm surprised there appears to be a damascus patterning going on in the first half of the blade with only three layers. You can definitely see the core, it's a shame it did not retain enough carbon to harden properly.
  11. Very nice knife, and the video was well done also. I am curious about why you put the aluminum insert into the handle tang. Was this just for ease of drilling the smaller hole for the pin?
  12. Very nicely done, beautiful work. I always like to see the intricate file work along the spine of the knife. Both knifes look like they would be awkward to hold or use. How do they feel in hand?
  13. Probably not a bad price for the amount of work involved to waterjet that piece, but I went with the Holland Anvil block. Beautiful casting and extremely reasonable pricing when you go to the manufacturer and not buy it off the CL or EB scammers
  14. For the restore part, just wire wheel and/or brush to remove the loose rust, a little gold accent paint for the lettering and coat with boiled linseed oil. Should provide a nice dark patina and make the old gal pretty again. You could fab up something to attach a new handle to the coupling or replace the coupling entirely, hard to tell how it's attached from the photo.
  15. Here's another direction you may want to consider. Rather than softening a hammer, depending on the design of your guillotine, you could weld a small slug to the top edge for a consumable contact point. This would focus the impact. Or you could just take the top die out when it begins to mushroom, throw it in the forge and re-shape the top surface back to flat.
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