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About JME1149

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    Pittsburgh-ish, PA

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  1. This would be a good place to start.
  2. My guess would be either Trenton or Arm & Hammer. Would be nice to see the bottom surface to help narrow down the brand, but being secured to the stump will prevent that. Best bet is to check the side for brand markings or look at the front foot edge for stamped serial numbers.
  3. My guess would be that it is the stationary side of a bench vise, with the tail of the anvil acting as one of the jaws.
  4. ...or when the call has ended, but hasn't quite been disconnected, and your team starts discussing what they really think of the other team.
  5. Wire wheel would be my preferred method, possibly a light pass with a flap wheel to remove some of the paint from the sides, protect with BLO. Use a respirator, no telling how old that paint is and if it's lead based or not. Get us a picture of the bottom surface and front foot, could provide more clues to the identity.
  6. Looks like either Hay Budden or Trenton to me (thin tail). Based on my HB catalog, 6" wide X 23" long face with a 14.5" long horn puts it at 400 pounds. At CA$800, that sounds like a good deal if it passes all the tests and if you need an anvil that big.
  7. I'm surprised there appears to be a damascus patterning going on in the first half of the blade with only three layers. You can definitely see the core, it's a shame it did not retain enough carbon to harden properly.
  8. Very nice knife, and the video was well done also. I am curious about why you put the aluminum insert into the handle tang. Was this just for ease of drilling the smaller hole for the pin?
  9. Very nicely done, beautiful work. I always like to see the intricate file work along the spine of the knife. Both knifes look like they would be awkward to hold or use. How do they feel in hand?
  10. Probably not a bad price for the amount of work involved to waterjet that piece, but I went with the Holland Anvil block. Beautiful casting and extremely reasonable pricing when you go to the manufacturer and not buy it off the CL or EB scammers
  11. For the restore part, just wire wheel and/or brush to remove the loose rust, a little gold accent paint for the lettering and coat with boiled linseed oil. Should provide a nice dark patina and make the old gal pretty again. You could fab up something to attach a new handle to the coupling or replace the coupling entirely, hard to tell how it's attached from the photo.
  12. Here's another direction you may want to consider. Rather than softening a hammer, depending on the design of your guillotine, you could weld a small slug to the top edge for a consumable contact point. This would focus the impact. Or you could just take the top die out when it begins to mushroom, throw it in the forge and re-shape the top surface back to flat.
  13. I don't think I am completely understanding the concept of use for your build. I see what appears to be holes drilled in the long pipe section toward the back section of the vertical brick walls (1st pic) and I see expanded metal sheet possibly covering this area, cemented in place in the 3rd pic. Are the roof bricks mortared in place (looks like it in pic #2) or are they loose? Does the feed pipe penetrate the end of the barrel and if so, is it accessible to clean out? Forgive me if this has been covered in another post I haven't seen. I'm just going off what is offered here. This will tell me how you will be adding coal to the fire, i.e. pour it on top or push it in thru the front opening. The question about the clinker removal is valid because not all clinker comes out as a big solid piece. Smaller pieces, as well as ash, will deposit and collect in and around your feed pipe, thus restricting air flow and heat production.
  14. That is a nice looking little anvil. I've never seen that style of marking on a HB before, thanks for sharing.
  15. Very nice chandelier, and lots of other hidden gems of blacksmithing around the room.