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Everything posted by Tagg
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Well... Got the forge up! Someone kindly gave me a few insulating fire bricks. Right now the flame is too rich (It's green, but you can't really see it from the pictures). I need to trim the MIG tip a bit. How much, exactly should I trim? Zachary
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I suggest you put a "wanted" ad in craiglist for an anvil / piece of RR track. I did that, and someone gave me a piece of RR track for free. He also gave me some HC wire rope and a piece of leaf spring to get my started in bladesmithing. Of course, I did say I was 16, and that probably helped a bit, but you never know who will shoot you an email. Make sure to tell people your situation like that fact that you just don't want to drop down $300 on an anvil and you still want to get started in the hobby. Zachary
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Then again, the pitting might look really rustic after you're done. If you do decide to make the blade, polish it so it's relatively smooth and then put a patina on it or blue the steel. The pitting might look kind of neat.
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Common knife steels include leaf springs nicolson files safe edge horse rasps any kind of saw blade (Bandsaw, circular saw, hacksaw, etc..) BEFORE forging the knife, do a quench test on the material: Heat to critical, quench in oil. See if it breaks off in your vice when hitting it with a hammer (Wear saftey glasses!). If it bends, then it's either mild steel, or has to be quenched faster. If so, then you might want to try a water quench. If it still bends, you could go to a "super quench" of soap, salt, and water (I believe, could be wrong) and then check that way, but I would stick with easy quenching steels that are high carbon and quench in oil. Zachary
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I know this kind of defeats the purpose of an all-rebar knife, but the handle grip looks so cool that you may want to consider making another knife by forge welding a piece of high carbon round bar to the rebar and then forge the knife out. Not sure if it's more trouble than it's worth though. Zachary
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Congrats! Awesome. Can't wait to see your future knives.
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What is that coil? A spring? It look a little like a truck or car leaf spring to me. It's that's what it is, then it's high carbon steel which means water quenching is a no-go. Quenching in oil just letting it cool should prevent fractures. Zachary
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Good. Didn't want to have to send the regulator back. Thanks, Zachary
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Got the regulator and hose in a couple days ago. The regulator packaging says NOT to use it for gas grills and turkey fryers. Is this because gas grills have very low PSI burners? The regulator is 0-30PSI.
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I finished that same burner design just last week and got the regulator and hose in a couple days ago. Now I have to get to work on my forge also. I'm building my forge out of firebrick. you?
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Howdy from North Dallas!
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I live in Allen and I'm making knives too. Welcome!
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If you do not feel like answering, Steve, don't feel like you have to answer them. Somone else will probably come along and answer their question anyway. I have to admit, this forum was a little hard to navigate when I first got on here. There are SO MANY different forum sections, it can get a little overwealming. No worries! Forgive and forget. Zachary
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I got the "T" tapped and got the copper tubing. Now I'm just waiting for my regulator and hose to come in. And I'm looking around for insulating firebrick. Almost done!
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Incredible! You must get a lot of work done on that anvil. What is the rebound on that anvil? 99% efficient or something? :o
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That shop vac is way to strong. Use a hairdryer on low or medium and it should give you plenty of air flow.
