September 25, 20205 yr Author You changed TWO things without testing! SHAME ON YOU! The #1 rule of trouble shooting which is exactly what you are doing is. Change ONE THING AT A TIME, test, observe and log the results. It looks better. BUT. You don't have enough outlet holes in the burner block. THIS is why the flame is off the block so far. Frosty The Lucky.
September 25, 20205 yr I updated after changing two things, but I've been testing more between updates. After trimming the length of a .035 down to be CRAZY short and still not seeing hardly any difference, I kept the length the same and limited the amount of fuel going into it as much as possible, and it's still running rich. I was coming to that same conclusion as well. Since I'll have to recast the block anyway, would it be worth it to drill the holes out some with a cheap bit and see if that helps any?
September 25, 20205 yr If you are going to scrap it otherwise, it would not hurt anything, except your tools. I've destroyed a carbide tool trying to modify kastolite after firing. If you could succeed easily, you would gain more data but if kastolite is easily worked after firing, something was wrong in casting/firing. (If you used kastolite) I wouldn't put a lot of effort into it. Wood and plaster are easier prototype mediums.
September 25, 20205 yr I went with Mizzou, and yeah, it's definitely not too happy about being drilled. I still have the steel plate I used for my initial testing, so I'll just drill those out bigger. It'll be way easier to test it now that I've got a hole in my forge to put the burner in.
September 27, 20205 yr Author Maybe try more holes rather than larger. The sweet spot on NARB had a +/- of 2 holes. 1/64" difference in Dia skipped the sweet spot with the same number of holes. Seriously, 19 holes was good but 21 was marginal. Frosty The Lucky.
September 27, 20205 yr Eh, I decided to quit trying to reinvent the wheel and I'm just gonna use the exact specs you figured out. At this point, I just need my forge back up and running. I'm gonna get a test run knocked out tonight and hope that it ends up working.
September 29, 20205 yr Author I hear you, experimenting is for when you have the time or don't have a choice. When you do get around to experimenting I highly recommend making a plenum you can screw to a wood block. You only get a few seconds before the wood starts burning and it's impossible to evaluate the burner but a few seconds is enough to get in the ball park. You can always take pics, I'll be happy to lend an eye. You just need to get them right after you light it. Pics are good so you can evaluate the flames without a time limit in the seconds. Frosty The Lucky.
September 29, 20205 yr Thanks Frosty. I got the block cast a couple days ago and spent this morning testing it out, and it just will not heat my forge. It burns a lot better, but I let it run for a good 15-20 minutes and only had parts of my forge get up to dull red. Cranking it up higher doesn't seem to do anything except give me more dragon's breath, and blocking off an end only makes it run worse.
September 29, 20205 yr Author Still sounds a back pressure issue. How many outlets in the block, 19 crayons? Frosty The Lucky.
September 30, 20205 yr Honestly, I'm beginning to think Version 2.0 is going to look suspiciously like a Chili Tabasco
September 30, 20205 yr Author There you go, adopt someone else's burner and get to smithing. Frosty The Lucky.
September 30, 20205 yr 4 hours ago, jt0119 said: Honestly, I'm beginning to think Version 2.0 is going to look suspiciously like a Chili Tabasco Is that what you really think? Or is it just off color humor? Robert Taylor
September 30, 20205 yr Oh, no. Nothing I make anytime soon will resemble a Chili forge. I've had plenty of other issues with my forge, to the point I'm just gonna bite the bullet and buy one so I can get back to work and tinker over time. It may not be a Chili Tabasco, but I'm looking reeeeeeal hard at that one. That's not the point of this thread, though.
October 1, 20205 yr Greetings all, been lurking. Is there a source for the AMAL injector burners in the US?
October 1, 20205 yr Amalcarb.co.uk say they will export to the USA, but there is no mention of distributors outside the UK. Could you just order one directly from them?
January 20, 20215 yr So is the consensus after all these years that the original 19 crayons is still the way to go? Has a specific spacing been decided on? I saw Frosty mention that this burner is ideal for 300-350 cu/in. Is forge shape important? In other words can it be shorter in height and wider and work well, or does it need to be taller and more narrow? Was thinking maybe 7" wide x 4" tall x 12" deep for 336 cu/in, but not sure if that short of height would reduce burner efficiency. Sorry if I missed any the info. Hard to read through such a long thread and retain anything with three little kiddos in the house under 9 yo bouncing off the walls.
January 30, 20215 yr Author Sorry, I missed your question, I don't spend as much time on the forum as I used to, the screen gives me bad eye head aches. That shape should be fine, it's long and narrow that makes even heat difficult. Frosty The Lucky.
January 31, 20215 yr No worries. Trying to decide on building vs buying. At this point I have more money then time. Well, I guess I really can make the time, but my time has other priorities and I would rather be forging then building something to forge. I used to use charcoal, then coal, then a smaller gas forge that I made. If I build I was going to probably make one from the high temp soft firebrick.
January 31, 20215 yr I'm waiting impatiently for a frosty ribbon burner plan that caters to my thick head lol.
January 31, 20215 yr Author Did you look at the "NARB LIVES" thread? It lays it out as easily as I know how to make it. Jer
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