D.Rotblatt

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About D.Rotblatt

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  1. Your build looks great! Some suggestions on your setup. The pressure between the jet and the needle valve may be unreadable on the gauge depending on the size of your jets. I would put the gauge before the needle valve (actually before the ball valve shutoff) so you can see/set the maximum line pressure, and then adjust with the needle valve and air to fine tune. You have a very rich flame, and the regulator is showing nearly 0. Given the type of blower you have (Ive got one like that too), you should have excessive air. I'm guessing it's gated down in the pics. If not, I noticed the pipe after the jet is a much smaller diameter and may restrict the air flow. An HVAC guy one told me about the importance of larger vents...I carried that onto my build. I used one the same size as the exit on the blower.... 2.5" I think. Either way, looking really good, it will work completely differently in the forge anyway, and all this might be moot! And thanks for your service! DanR
  2. Very nice! What did your friend think? DanR
  3. 6" OD and 1" of ceramic fiber will leave you with a 4" ID, 2" of fiber would leave you with 2" ID (not enough), so 1" then. Then line with 1/4" of refractory and you end up with 3.5" interior. You could easily cut off 8-10" or so, and make a little forge with that. A 8-10" forge with 3.5" diameter interior would make about a 75-100 cu inch forge. One 1/2" burner would do that fine. Would be good for small knives up to 6" -8" or so (max you could heat treat with it), or small projects. Answers above are spot on. DanR
  4. If it's the tanks getting cold, my larger ribbon burner freezes a 30# tank. I finally plumbed two tanks together and it solved that problem, and it lasts longer. My setup is like yours, the two tanks sit under the forge, but I plan to change that (after 40 years of doing it this way, I suddenly got an image of a faulty pressure release valve giving out in a plume of LP gas that would ignite under the forges...just a silly little thought I can't seem to shake ). If it's not the tanks freezing, read Frosty's question.... DanR
  5. Frosty's territory for the 'T'. But yes, in general the gas/air mixture and performance of naturally aspirated burners is defined by a number of variables such as jet size, mixing tube size (both width and length), intake size, jet placement, Nozzle size and length. They all interact and, within some mysterious tolerance, all need to be right to get good performance. Generally, if you increase the size of the mixing tube, the jet size needs to increase, as well as the intake size. You are basically scaling up or down the whole burner. What is recommended is the result of lots of peoples experiments, and a lot of trial and error in the community. Listen to this advice! It is necessary when trouble shooting or, as A.F. said, designing a new burner type. Try one thing. If it gets better, keep it and try another or follow that lead. IF it gets worse, go back to the way it was (if possible) and try a new direction. For everybody else, I didn't mean to stomp on anyone else's suggestions, just felt I had some information that others didn't. DanR
  6. J.Gonzalez made his with 90 holes @.125" and messaged me the other day that it's working fine. You're 1" burner is just oversized for the number of holes you have. Switch to a 3/4" burner and it may work just fine. See my discussion with J.Gonzalez over the past page or two. I'd suggest a stock 3/4" Frosty 'T' burner as a starting point - that gives you access to the creator himself if you need help tuning it. I'm starting to think that my 124 holes are too many, thus the organ sound. But once up to heat it's working sweet. Forging at half the pressure I used to, welding easily (except I have a soft brick floor...) - but other mods have been made including a 3D printed inducer with slightly larger tip (using the 3D printer tip drilled out to .040), and a smaller interior forge size. Been fine tuning lots of variables one at a time. DanR
  7. Great to see how people are working. Here's mine, pics are about 2 years old. It's never this neat, but I had just rearranged shelves, tables etc to make it more workable so it was clean...for about a month. The forge has had a baby since then. DanR ___________________ Back when I was building it in 2005: ______________________ Inside the main room, left to right. Table, hot work area, power hammer, CNC mill and another table behind the shelves. ___________ The Grinding room: __________ Li'l Thumper - my power hammer Tormach CNC Mill
  8. Just an update: Coal Iron has a new 12 ton press. ~$2800 for the press and the "power pack". Looks fast, and easy. DanR
  9. Unless you live with my family....
  10. Hey! It's a furnace as well! DanR
  11. Little bell went off in my head, hope I'm wrong...are you making sure the metal you are forging is not galvanized? It burns and leaves a white ash (zinc oxide). I assume it's something else, but....just to be careful I thought I'd mention it. Most of the crap that accumulates in my forge is black, melted and/or glass like. In a new forge sometimes if you have a IFB as the floor it will get scraped up and there will be tan powder. DanR
  12. I agree! My .125" NARB lives up top of my little round forge. I decided to reduce the interior size, so I added wool on the sides making a kind of Isosceles Trapezoid (not a box, but easy to do with IFB). Not much need for swirl like with the tube burners. The burner could be a little further up (it's about 5" high), because when I have a high billet in there, or HTing a knife perpendicular to the floor the top looks like it's in a bit more oxidizing atmosphere. Upshot is that I agree this burner works really well in a box forge.
  13. My solution. Includes removable burner. 6-7 pics near bottom of page: https://www.iforgeiron.com/topic/48001-naturally-aspirated-ribbon-burner-photo-heavy/page/29/
  14. I here you there. I’m often the same way, but here’s a pic of my first furnace just before it was retired. Built from a can with screw top labeled “Freon”. i think it took me 4 hours to build . We didn’t worry about any stinkin’ silicosis back then! As for number of layers, 1” is ok, but you get some heat loss, a lot of my forges had that much and easily welded. Temperature is more about internal size vs burner output (ie make the forge smaller). 2” layer will save money in the long run. The forge is more efficient and gets a little hotter for the same gas. 3” is diminishing returns for the work and $$. Sometimes used to fill space in an over large forge body. Many opinions on this one. A mailbox would work fine. Rivets, screws, welded. Just not soft soldered. I would say anything that will withstand 4-500F, and most of it will never get near that hot. Figure what you want the internal size to be, modify the mailbox in needed. DanR
  15. Fantastic that it's working well with 90 holes! Good additional data. Did it make the "Organ sound" for the first 10 minutes or until it heated up? I like it a little reducing - helps prevent scale. You can also change the jet size to change mix. DanR De nada my friend! Happy to do it. CNC mill, not a usual diy'er tool. Doesn't really matter that much from a practical way. DanR