December 10, 2025Dec 10 Author How far have you read the NARB thread, follow any of the links? You are asking for specific answers to really vague questions. I have 4 T burners on my too large shop forge and all 4 are slightly different and I made them as identical as I could in my lathe. I made my burner blocks from Kastolite 30 but wouldn't do that again if I ever make another one. We spent a lot of times discussing reasons for making the blocks from different materials, using different things to make cores for the nozzeletts, IF they cast refractory blocks. How to keep the blocks from heating above propane air's flash point. How to mount the blocks in the plenum, how do disperse the fuel air evenly across the nozzeletts. Heck, how and were to mount NARB(s) in the forge, orient the flames, etc. The only way to avoid having to read a couple long darned threads and experiment till you get one that works would be to fork out the money and buy one or more. One thing to bear in mind is even if you manage to get the full capacity of the inducer you're using to drive the thing the burner will NOT get the forge to as high a temperature as a single outlet burner that size will. Speaking from my experience I have 2 3/4" T induction devices, normally easily able to heat 350 cu/in to more than melting temp. The NARB forge is just under 360 cu/in but good luck getting welding heat in it, low yellow is about it. It is that color through out the entire forge though, the temp is even and consistent like no other forge I've used. I think of it more as a heat treatment forge or for bending and twisting. The burners do have a much better stable psi range than the same inducers used as single outlet burners. The narb makes well formed stable flames from stop to stop on a 0 - 30 psi regulator and is resistant to external breezes. Frosty The Lucky.
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