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I Forge Iron


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About jt0119

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    Vancouver, WA

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  1. Oh, no. Nothing I make anytime soon will resemble a Chili forge. I've had plenty of other issues with my forge, to the point I'm just gonna bite the bullet and buy one so I can get back to work and tinker over time. It may not be a Chili Tabasco, but I'm looking reeeeeeal hard at that one. That's not the point of this thread, though.
  2. Honestly, I'm beginning to think Version 2.0 is going to look suspiciously like a Chili Tabasco
  3. Yep, all drilled and melted out at this point as well.
  4. Thanks Frosty. I got the block cast a couple days ago and spent this morning testing it out, and it just will not heat my forge. It burns a lot better, but I let it run for a good 15-20 minutes and only had parts of my forge get up to dull red. Cranking it up higher doesn't seem to do anything except give me more dragon's breath, and blocking off an end only makes it run worse.
  5. Eh, I decided to quit trying to reinvent the wheel and I'm just gonna use the exact specs you figured out. At this point, I just need my forge back up and running. I'm gonna get a test run knocked out tonight and hope that it ends up working.
  6. I went with Mizzou, and yeah, it's definitely not too happy about being drilled. I still have the steel plate I used for my initial testing, so I'll just drill those out bigger. It'll be way easier to test it now that I've got a hole in my forge to put the burner in.
  7. I updated after changing two things, but I've been testing more between updates. After trimming the length of a .035 down to be CRAZY short and still not seeing hardly any difference, I kept the length the same and limited the amount of fuel going into it as much as possible, and it's still running rich. I was coming to that same conclusion as well. Since I'll have to recast the block anyway, would it be worth it to drill the holes out some with a cheap bit and see if that helps any?
  8. Alright, just to eliminate the mig tip as the problem for it burning rich, I took one of my extra .030 tips and cut it as short as I felt I could and still be able to remove it. Ended up here:
  9. His post/videos on YouTube was what inspired me to go with 1/8" holes. I did a fair amount of testing outside the forge, and 63 seemed to be the sweet spot for what I had. That said, I'm kinda doubting whether I knew enough at that point to accurately judge a sweet spot. Also, just because I wanted to see if it'd change anything, I pulled the burner out from the forge a bit and got these.
  10. Yeah,the first two pictures I posted today were using the T completely unaltered, as it was previously tuned. I've been playing around since those with various lengths on the mig tips, but I think I overshot it. I've got 7 more of both 30 and 35s. -1/32"
  11. Yeah, I saw the stamp when I took it out to compare it to the sizes I had. Made that process a lot easier. Deburring didn't make much difference, so this is what I got after trimming it down, same relative pressures:
  12. Alright, elbow and chokes are gone and this is what I'm getting with the valve just barely cracked, then turned up some. Edit: also, after checking, it looks like I used a .035 tip.
  13. Just so I have something to test tomorrow if I don't see much of a difference after removing the elbow, if I'm running rich, I should be removing length from the mig tip to draw in more air, correct?
  14. Wasn't brought up that way, just a habit I picked up somewhere around high school and it was only reinforced by working in retail Gut instinct is telling me I used a .030, but I experimented with both that and .035 and can't fully remember which I ended up using. I have plenty of both, though.
  15. Totally understandable, sir. I was pretty caught off guard by how difficult it was to go from one relatively standard fitting to the other. I spent a few days figuring out how to use the fewest number of fittings and go from that 1/8 nipple to 3/8 flare with what I had access to. I'll ditch the elbow tomorrow and report in with any results.
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