Urthman Posted January 15, 2015 Share Posted January 15, 2015 A nice little champion. A craigslist pit stop on a business trip yesterday. Seems complete, and in good shape. This is my first coal forge- I've been using a gasser that I built. Is there any maintenance I should do before firing it up? Maybe drain/add oil? Knowing me, I'm sure I'll end up tearing it down, stripping it, and painting it all purdy. But I kind of want to fire it up and try it first. :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2ballcain357 Posted January 15, 2015 Share Posted January 15, 2015 If it was me, I would give a quick once over then fire it up..then when time permits tear it down give it a good cleaning and lube job...that's just me though. I imagine others will dis agree though. It's yours in the end so do what you wish with it. It's alway fun getting new toys Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daniel S Posted January 15, 2015 Share Posted January 15, 2015 Good score on the forge. My dad used to use one of a similar size. With the cast iron pan, you'll want to line it. The casting of the pan may say to do that before using. Before adding more oil, you may want to make sure theres not a lot of junk in the gearbox. That is a great size forge for portability. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted January 15, 2015 Share Posted January 15, 2015 As I recall in that model blower may be one of the ones where the cast iron cover slides along the long axis before coming off, don't try prying it straight up as it will break the cast iron pieces that engage in the hidden retaining bolts.I would definitely take the top off and check for crud in the blower gears. If the old oil has petrified, use a lighter oil or solvent to soften it and clean it out and then replace with the running oil you plan to use. (I use a light machine oil) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob S Posted January 15, 2015 Share Posted January 15, 2015 I'm sure I'll end up tearing it down, stripping it, and painting it all purdy. it's pretty the way it is. no paint needed. do you want to be a blacksmith or a painter? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JME1149 Posted January 15, 2015 Share Posted January 15, 2015 As far as the blower goes, if it turns smoothly and quietly, don't futz around with the internals. A couple squirts of oil occasionally is all it should ever need. If it's tough to turn or makes a horrible, gravely noise then you may need to do further repairs. Wire wheel the outside if you like and paint or oil won't hurt anything, or just leave that nice old patina on it. I agree with all above on lining the pan before use to prevent thermal shock cracking. Looks like a beautiful unit that should work well for another 50+ years with a little care and attention. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Everything Mac Posted January 15, 2015 Share Posted January 15, 2015 I'd be inclined to clean out the blower as well. If, as said, it does turn smoothly and quietly then there's no need but the tinkerer in me would want to know for sure it's clean and properly greased anyway. I've picked up a blower not that long ago that will be getting that very treatment. All the best Andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Urthman Posted January 16, 2015 Author Share Posted January 16, 2015 Thanks all! I fired it up tonight with some charcoal. Worked great, but after reading comments here I think lining it is a good idea. I'll look for some refractory cement to do so. Anyone have a good line on where to buy soft coal in Northern Virginia? I'd like to give that a shot (after trying charcoal tonight) Thanks! -Jeremy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted January 16, 2015 Share Posted January 16, 2015 I cast my opinion in favor of messing with the works as little as necessary, if it moves smoothly and quietly a few drops or little squirt of is all she needs. Line the pan, I prefer a mix of 2-3 pts sand to 1 pt clay and just damp enough it will form a solid clod in your hand when squeezed hard. Lay it in and use a mallet or similar to hammer it hard, smoothing and burnishing it will help keep clinker from sticking. A clay liner rammed hard with minimum moisture will go a long way to preventing shrink checking. Not plastering or cementing a liner in makes a whole lot easier to reline it and reline it you will. Good score, she'll last a couple more generations with basic care. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
swedefiddle Posted January 16, 2015 Share Posted January 16, 2015 Happy New Year, How is the on/off switch? :) :) :) LOL I have a couple of sisters, of your forge. probably the same Mother. Enjoy the Coal, but don't give up on your gasser. They each have their place, sometimes coal, sometimes gas, sometimes solar. John Little did a demo on solar heat, mirror mirror on the wall. Patience, patience!! Neil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted January 16, 2015 Share Posted January 16, 2015 Solar? round these parts I have seen a smith take a piece of stock off the scrap pile out in the sun and stick it in the forge to cool it down... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Urthman Posted October 21, 2016 Author Share Posted October 21, 2016 So, I've had this forge a while now. I like it, but was starting to feel limited by it's size- I was always spilling coal out of the thing. Also, the airflow seems pretty terrible with those little pinholes. So, I decided to make some modifications. I removed the steel 'holey' plate, and modified it with a grill. I also welded together a small firepot, and a deck. All the modifications are simply bolted on, so I can easily return this to 'stock' if desired. All in all, I'm happy with the mods; and it was easier than building/buying a new forge. I'm sure it's still limited (compared to a full-blown shop forge) but it's a heck of a lot more capable than it was! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charles R. Stevens Posted October 21, 2016 Share Posted October 21, 2016 Week that is one way to convert a rivit forge to more robust general forge. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buzzkill Posted October 21, 2016 Share Posted October 21, 2016 Looks pretty darn good to me. I'm looking forward to see what you can create with it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
C-1ToolSteel Posted October 21, 2016 Share Posted October 21, 2016 Wow that's pretty sweet! How stable is it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Urthman Posted October 21, 2016 Author Share Posted October 21, 2016 I fired it up today, and it feels pretty stable. The mods were pretty lightweight, so it's no more rickety than it was to begin with. and it works! Definitely worth the effort. Cranked these out today. The crappy looking on on the bottom will bolt to a beam in the shop... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigb Posted October 22, 2016 Share Posted October 22, 2016 How deep is that fire pot? My makeshift coal forge has a fire pot that is several inches deep and kind of funnel shaped. I am constantly having trouble getting some of my work into the heat, mainly pieces 6 or 7 inches long. I can get the ends heated fine but when I need to continue on down the piece I find I have to angle it into the fire pot to get to the heat which results in running the end into the fire pot before getting the last part in the heat. I am thinking of cutting a thick "block" with a hole in the middle, placing it on the bottom of the fire pot and setting my grate on top which will raise my fire a couple inches. I have also considered maybe I am not making the fire big enough, but I suspect with proper design I could accomplish what I want without making a bigger, wasteful fire. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Urthman Posted October 22, 2016 Author Share Posted October 22, 2016 My firepot is small compared to most designs I've seen- but it seemed logical with the space I had to work with. My firepot I welded up is roughly 6.5" x 6.5" x 2" deep. If I mound the coal up a few inches higher than that, it makes a nice 'heat igloo'. I can work a bar straight through the fire to heat the center no problem. I'm mostly working with stock that's 3/4" round or smaller. My problem with the old forge design was not enough fire UNDER my work. I'd jam my work close to the grate and burn it with all that airflow. Your problem seems to be not enough fire OVER your work- which a bit higher coal mound should solve...? I try not to knock over the 'heat igloo' once it's formed. IE: always rake those hot coals back on top. Full disclosure: I mostly forge with propane. I don't have a lot of experience with coal. And the experience I *do* have is of the 'trial-and-error' kind. Others here with more coal experience may have better advice. Or may even correct any wrong advice I gave above. Also: If my fire gets 'wider' than I want, I sprinkle water on the outside edges so I don't waste that coal . . . -Jeremy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JHCC Posted October 22, 2016 Share Posted October 22, 2016 10 hours ago, bigb said: How deep is that fire pot? My makeshift coal forge has a fire pot that is several inches deep and kind of funnel shaped. I am constantly having trouble getting some of my work into the heat, mainly pieces 6 or 7 inches long. I can get the ends heated fine but when I need to continue on down the piece I find I have to angle it into the fire pot to get to the heat which results in running the end into the fire pot before getting the last part in the heat. I am thinking of cutting a thick "block" with a hole in the middle, placing it on the bottom of the fire pot and setting my grate on top which will raise my fire a couple inches. I have also considered maybe I am not making the fire big enough, but I suspect with proper design I could accomplish what I want without making a bigger, wasteful fire. 1 hour ago, Urthman said: My firepot is small compared to most designs I've seen- but it seemed logical with the space I had to work with. My firepot I welded up is roughly 6.5" x 6.5" x 2" deep. If I mound the coal up a few inches higher than that, it makes a nice 'heat igloo'. I can work a bar straight through the fire to heat the center no problem. I'm mostly working with stock that's 3/4" round or smaller. My problem with the old forge design was not enough fire UNDER my work. I'd jam my work close to the grate and burn it with all that airflow. Your problem seems to be not enough fire OVER your work- which a bit higher coal mound should solve...? I try not to knock over the 'heat igloo' once it's formed. IE: always rake those hot coals back on top. Full disclosure: I mostly forge with propane. I don't have a lot of experience with coal. And the experience I *do* have is of the 'trial-and-error' kind. Others here with more coal experience may have better advice. Or may even correct any wrong advice I gave above. Also: If my fire gets 'wider' than I want, I sprinkle water on the outside edges so I don't waste that coal . . . -Jeremy Please go read this pinned post on "Forges and Fires"; it gives a lot of great information. The illustration in the top post is worth ten thousand words. bigb, "several inches deep" is probably too deep; a decent duck's nest is only a couple of inches at the most. Raising your fire up a couple of inches could work well; definitely give it a try. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigb Posted October 23, 2016 Share Posted October 23, 2016 Thanks for that info JHCC, I did see that page a while back but it is nice for a refresher. I wish the links at the bottom worked though. I had actually forgotton about leaving a small hole at the top. I picked up some 1" scrap plate today and will get the torch out soon to make a "spacer" or two. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Urthman Posted October 23, 2016 Author Share Posted October 23, 2016 I made one more improvement to the forge today: side draft chimney. It was a bit of work, but totally worth it. The inside of my nose isn't black today. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
arkie Posted October 24, 2016 Share Posted October 24, 2016 Urthman, nice job on the hood/flue pipe. Do you see that the rain cap inhibits the flow any, or can you tell? I understand that the gap on the cap should be equal to the diameter of the flue pipe...what's yours? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charles R. Stevens Posted October 24, 2016 Share Posted October 24, 2016 You will find that the flap over the for is unnesisary if your stack is drafting properly, and you can pull the forge forward a bit so the box sets flat instead of tilting out over the fire. Just a bit easer to work your fire and stock. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Urthman Posted October 24, 2016 Author Share Posted October 24, 2016 Thanks gents. Arkie- I'm not sure if the cap is hurting my airflow- but I might pop it off to find out. The pipe is 8" diameter, and the rain cap gap is about 4" tall (I'm guessing). I'd say the stack pulls in about 90% of the smoke once it's warmed up. 100% would be nice if some tweaks will get me there. Charles- Thanks for the tips. Yeah, I didn't notice the 'flap' doing much. I'll play around with placement as you suggest, and probably end up removing the flap. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charles R. Stevens Posted October 24, 2016 Share Posted October 24, 2016 8" is a bit small, but should work. You may need to light a cupple wads off news paper in the box to get a good draft. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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