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Everything posted by bigb

  1. I went to get my card at the last minute and I was afraid they'd be out. Then I realized when I got there and the whole card aisle was mostly guys there would be plenty as most of us guys wait till the last minute.
  2. Don't know if you did it yet but I put a 8" Chimenea pipe thru a corrugated metal roof almost 20 years ago and it is not leaking yet. I simply got the flashing then used a tube of GE Silicone on the uphill side and pressed it down. Don't try to seal the downhill side or it could trap water in and leak. I've had some roaring fires in that Chimenea over the years and the pipe immediately above it has gotten sizzling hot but the silicone is still holding. The silicone also is rubberized so it gives for expansion instead of cracking like plastic roof cement.
  3. for wire sizing and voltage drop loss calcs yes but for total power consumption no, In a resistive load like a heating element Amps X Volts= Watts so end cost is basically the same minus VD losses on the 240 volt circuit. You can't get around Ohms law.
  4. heh heh well I am not calling myself a blacksmith just yet! I do however have a friend who is quite accomplished and I will ask him to assist me when he has a little time.
  5. I have a terrible time with my tongs. From the fire to the anvil I usually lose a lot of time fumbling around trying to turn the work piece how I need it, sometimes dropping it, losing heat as I fumble around. All my tongs are used flea market bargains except two pair of Wolf jaws. I am thinking of ordering some quick tongs and make them to fit my work better, but mostly right now I think it's just that I haven't practiced enough and my coordination is not that great anyways. I have considered just welding rebar onto my pieces but resisted thus far because if I do that I will never get the hang of the tongs, plus that's a PITA anyways.
  6. How much of an opening do you find you need to keep it running smoothly? I am working on my doors and I know I'll never be able to close them all the way due to exhaust needs and I am planning to cut a small hole to act as exhaust relief and for viewing as well. I realize this can be quite variable but looking for a starting point. My forge has a 3/4" Z burner and is between 325 and 350 cubic inches. Would a 2 or 3 square inch opening be sufficient? I can start small and increase if necessary. My design uses hinges instead of sliders. It is nearly finished and I will post pics tomorrow.
  7. Finished the forge today and fired it. I didn't time anything but it did get hot pretty quickly and once warmed up it had no trouble heating my test pieces. It's got a real good swirling effect. I noticed the hottest point seems to be the side opposite the wall that the flame rolls into. It seems to roll along the floor, up the wall and across the roof, down the other wall and develops a hot spot right as the tip of the flame hits the floor again. The front 2/3 section seems to get hotter than the back, I might try aiming the burner toward the back a bit. I have the burner recessed about 1.5" past the Kast-O-Lite and into the ceramic blanket liner. Now I need to study up on making the flame optimal and efficient, and build an idle circuit. svid.mp4 Tried to put in a short video, not sure if it will work
  8. Well it seems my 3 foot diameter piece of 1/2" plate walked (or rolled) away. I knew right where it was for the last couple years and went to get it today and it was gone. I still have some 3/8" ones but I really wanted to use 1/2".
  9. Looks pretty heavy duty. I'm torn between using steel or wood for my upright piece, I have a big chunk of 12X12 fir 36" tall that I could secure to a 36" diameter 1/2" plate I have using some big 3/16" straps I got for free yesterday. Or I could use some 8x8 sidewalk drain I have also and make a plate top. I wonder if the wood would offer any advantage?
  10. Oh we use Scotch 33 for anything important but for pulling wire and temporarily bundling home runs for easier handling we use the cheap stuff.
  11. Makes me appreciate it here, I was complaining to my wife before work this morning that I would be outside all day in 45-50 degree temps doing a service upgrade. Well it's cold to us anyway. The Noalox doesn't like to come out of the bottle and the vinyl tape just breaks unless you keep it in your jeans.
  12. I didn't know that
  13. Really nice work. What kind of plasma cutter do you have? I am trying to decide which one to buy myself
  14. Some food for thought, in the Forges 101 sticky post #6 Mikey talks about a moveable barrier to allow exhaust gasses to rise out and up while the barrier, with it's reflective coating, reflects radiant heat back into the forge to help avoid a cold spot. I have an idea to cut only a very small viewing hole in the doors, then control the exhaust by leaving them ajar. I believe this will create what Mikey is talking about. What do you guys think?
  15. Thanks for the good replies, Frosty I thought of that last night after I posted and that is exactly what I'll do, take the doors off and do some trial runs with stacked fire brick. I decided to give the hinged doors a try since I didn't want to be fumbling around with sliding bricks and stacking bricks. If this works I think it will be faster and easier. If it doesn't work then I'll get out the grinder and do something different. I did a lot of Googling and didn't find anything like this so I said why not give it a try?
  16. If your lining blanket is anything like mine was it actually finished out at 2.5" after putting in two 1" layers. That brings you down to 380. Then what about the floor? I ended up flattening the bottom for a flat floor. My dimensions were similar to yours but I ended up at roughly 325 cubic inches. I included a layer of refractory cement over my blanket. My cubic inches were going to end up too small and I ended up peeling some of the blanket out then packing the castable in tight so I would have enough space.
  17. I picked this out of the job site dumpster today, 12X12 and 36" tall. Thinking of using it for my post vise. I can make a base for it, I have several circles of heavy plate. I have a lot of 2" X 1/8" lengths I can use for strapping to stop the splitting and all kinds of angle up to 4X4X1/4" to mount it to the plate.
  18. Thomas that was me, I am planning to cut a small notch out of each brick on my forge doors, see drawing
  19. Can you tell me how the fire brick doors are holding up? I have the same plan for mine, hope to get it finished this coming Sat. My plan is to cut a notch out of each brick so when closed there will still be a small opening for viewing and exhaust. I may attempt to hinge the bricks to avoid having to fight with hot, sliding bricks. Need to have somewhere for the exhaust to exit so can't close the bricks all the way anyway can you?
  20. So do you make a regular split cross first then twist each arm 180 degrees in the same direction?
  21. My Kast-O-Lite is presently curing and I will be starting my doors soon. I am going with 2 soft fire bricks that will slide on angle iron rails. One thing I am considering is to cut a notch into each fire brick so when the doors are closed I will still have an opening for exhaust and a viewing hole. Not sure if this would make the bricks break though. I could accomplish the same thing by just not closing them all the way and having a vertical slot instead.
  22. Subscribing because I was wondering the same thing. I am planning loose fitting fire brick doors with channel tracks but I don't forsee them ever being closed all the way.
  23. I punched the hole at 2:00 but I didn't take into account the reduced size after the liner is in. The cardboard represents the liner dimensions. Will this work or should I punch another hole a bit higher? (I punched one on top too so I can experiment with different burner locations, plugging the unused port with wool)
  24. I am just going to use soft fire bricks that slide on metal channel for the front and the back is an NC Tool cast iron door.
  25. In your post of Dec 24, first picture, can you explain why the refractory for the floor has plastic wrap under it?