Jealdi

My wife got a Cricut this week. So tonight we made me a decal for the truck.

I originally bought a "cheap" ($40ish?) set from my local big box (Menards) and they did not work well. I ended up at my local Ace Hardware (Looks like you have one in Erie according to their website). They had both of the taps I needed in stock (I believe they are Irwin Hanson brand), and even sold me the accompanying sized drill bit for the one I didn't have a bit for at home. I had purchased a handle from Menards because the one that came in my set was super small. I believe the two taps were roughly $10 each and the tap wrench I picked up was around that price too, maybe $15? I only

Glad you are recovering! I finally managed it with my hand drill and a hole saw bit for metal.

The cylinder is 13 inches long. It might get shortened to 12 in my cleanup. Doing my calculations at 13 just to make sure I have enough though. so 11.78 cu/in per linear inch would then be 11.78x13 = 153.14? I'm guessing that is then divided by the 19.2 from JHCC's post? Or not sure really where I go with it once I get that number.

So, my understanding is that kastolite is 90lbs/ft3. Trying to figure out how that equates to what I need to cast the inside of my forge. I'm guessing that's 90 lbs makes a solid cubic foot of hardened material. So I was getting some weird calculations... like 26 lbs needed to cast the inside of my forge for 1/2" of kastolite. I did find this below post from JHCC about how to figure it out. So if that would be the case, because my diameter of my cylinder after Kaowool would be 8", that makes a 4" radius, which gives me a surface area of right at 425. 425 x 0.5 = 21

I'm thinking I'll screw/rivet a flange for my larger pipe that will hold my burners. So I can put set screws through it to hold the burner. Wife might shoot me if I buy a welder since I've already bought a drill press for this project!

Thanks Frosty!

I started with this And ended up with this. My cuts when I cut the ends off were a little crooked. So I need to clean that up. But ending up with 12" diameter by 13" length. Now I need to go order some supplies from Glenn!

So I managed to finish up 2 3/4" T's today. I also managed to get my old propane tank cut open and cleaned up (man my arms are tired and numb after running the angle grinder that long!). So I have questions on burner attachment. What is the best way? How big of a hole do I need to drill in the shell? Should the burner just barely slip into the hole or have some space? Can I bolt/rivet/weld a flange where the burner will attach and just screw it to that or does it need to go into the shell? If so, how far? And can I do the flange idea but using a bigger pipe to act as a holder then?

I have one like this from the local box store. No plastic tip on it though and the shape is not round obviously.

My condolences Charles.

I believe their website says if you pick it up... it's $29 for a 50 pound bag. I'm 4 hours each way to them, so I have it shipped. It is cheaper if you purchase multiple bags for shipping, but you would have to buy A LOT of bags to get it down to $29 per bag shipped. I would drive up there, but that means taking a day off work for me since I believe you can only drive up M-F (I would have to recheck their site, haven't looked at it in a while on that).

According to Google Maps and your location listed here Shark, you are only about 2 hours from Centaur Forge. I currently use coke from them in my JABOD.

The rigidizer you can buy here on IFI should cover 6.26 square feet per pint according to the post by Glenn. As for any other rigidizer, without knowing what you are using, we do cannot really tell you how much it will cover.

Tossed a coupling on the end just to protect threads while I work on the rest... but started a gasser build today.