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I Forge Iron

Goods

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Everything posted by Goods

  1. Not sure yet… I’ve got a bit of a collection going on at this point. I’ve got on cut up that I’m planning on using the outer race as a bead swage, but it’s something I haven’t gotten around to yet. They’re 52100 so the races will make good blades, but I really don’t make a whole lot of knives. Time will tell. The ball screw is also 52100. At least one piece will go to iron-in-hat at one of our hammer-ins. I’ve go a plan for a small piece of it (if it pans, out I’ll share it and the story when it’s done). The rest will probably end up at tools of some sort eventually. Keep it fun, David
  2. Couple items follow me home from work: A couple shafts, a few bearings, a piece of 1/4” plate, and a ball screw. (Ball screw was 12’ long before we chopped it up to aid in transporting.) Keep it fun, David
  3. Looks like you’re well on you way. I like that you put some details on your first ones! That’s a lot of material to move for a flux spoon.?I usually use 1/4” square and fagot weld about 3/4” length to get the mass for the spoon. It’s a good early forge welding project. If the weld isn’t perfect, it’s not super critical… Save those, and keep making more. Each one will be easier and they will start getting better. When you look back at these it will be a good reminder of how you progressed. (Which from my standpoint right now, you’ll progress pretty quickly.) Keep it fun, David
  4. TheoRickNazz is a member on this site from NYC. If I understand correctly, he works in a shared shop space in the city with other makers. If you can track him down (he hasn’t been on since 2020, but a PM might reach him), he may be able to hook you up with someone there. Keep it fun, David
  5. How did I miss this? So many fun machines I’d love to have someday…
  6. Listening to my inner voice usually ends up with me spending may more hours on any given forging project than most others would spend! However, I don’t think I would be happy with them any other way… Thankfully, it’s my hobby, not my source of income. Keep it fun, David
  7. I would talk to the heat treatment company you would plan to use. If you tell the the size and shape of the anvil and what characteristics you are looking for they would be able to make good material recommendations for you. Some steels are very shape sensitive and may warp or crack in the heat treatment. If the heat treater has induction hardening capabilities, that may be a cost effective solution as well. Bringing the whole anvil up to temperature and cool that large of a mass at a set rate could get expensive. Just a couple thoughts. Keep it fun, David
  8. I’m sorry I’ve never had the pleasure of meeting Thomas in person and I will miss his wit and insights here. Condolences to friends and Family, David
  9. I’m with you on collar welding. It’s one of the forge weld I’m pretty consistent with, but this was 304SS. I don’t have the confidence or aggressive fluxes for that. Keep it fun, David
  10. Frosty, I need the mass for the end finial. I could have upset it, but I find it easier to draw out than upset. Here’s some closer pictures of the twist: 1/2” square, with the corners chamfered to 5/8” across, then chased the flats created on the corners. Nothing on this one is very clean, but a couple new techniques for me that need practicing… Keep it fun, David
  11. Very impressive Alexandr! And a very hard act to follow… I got time in the shop today and started on the first of 3 stake flippers for gifts when I visit my family in a couple weeks. Started out as 3” of 1-1/16” round 304 stainless steel. Doesn’t meet the sketch I drew up, but pretty close. Keep it fun, David
  12. Nice job John! Tonight, I got the cone mandrel finished: After the final forging, it tool very little clean up this time. The new tooling is making a difference… Keep it fun, David
  13. I was surprised by any concerns over the position of the reservoir tank, so I brought it up with one who I would consider to be a hydraulics expert at work. He basically said the main reason for having the tank above the pump it to keep the pump primed for start up. No real system gains in n most cases. I then mentioned that over has the systems in our building have the tank below the pump and that I was confused by that. He responded that most if not all of those systems have a check valve to keep the hydraulic oil in the suction line. Basically, it all comes down to system design, but keeping the level of the tank above the pump entrance simplifies the system. Simple is good in my mind, less to go wrong. I like this guys, keep me learning! Keep it fun, David
  14. I’ve been using forklift tine as source material for all types of tooling: hammers, sets, fullers power hammer saddles, hatchets, chisels, punches, drifts. The material in mine is tough as forged and holds an edge quenched and tempered. Test your material. Then cut pieces off in the size you need for the project at hand. Keep it fun, David
  15. Don’t be offended by harsh criticism of unsafe practices! Nothing said was intended to belittle you, maybe make you think. Black/blade smiths have been maimed and killed just from slips in attention to safe practices! We don’t want that to happen to you or anyone else reading this post! Safety is taken very seriously here… Keep it fun (and safe), David
  16. Saturday I started a small blacksmith knife after working with a new young man at our hammer in. Well, yesterday I got it finished: It was make from a cutoff of 52100 from another project. Saturday, I also won the door prize (a nice set of tongs), so I’m responsible for next month’s door prize. Thought about what to make for a while and settled on making a hardie cone. Tonight I got my angle block saddle die finished up and roughed out the cone: Block is forklift tine on a 1/4” mild saddle. (Don’t look too close at the welds, they’re pretty ugly.) Cone is rough forged out a from a 2” diameter tie rod from a hydraulic press. We had lots of problems with this press type breaking these rods and started making them out of 4340. (I’m pretty sure this one is 4340.) Hopefully, tomorrow I’ll get some more shop time to finish it up. Keep it fun, David
  17. I wouldn’t write off dial-up as not being on the web. When I was in college a lot of my internet access was dial-up. Sound a bit early for true internet though… maybe a precursor. Keep it fun, David
  18. Wise decision John. I believe your customer is going to be very happy! Today, I got a vise/hardy hole bending jig done for a donation at our state conference this coming weekend. Just add a 1/2” socket the diameter you need and clamp it in the vise or set it in your anvils hardy hole: Our chapter donates a tools box and tools to the silent auction. Previous years I’ve made several hardies of different types, but my time has been limited this year. One of the guys in our chapter like the one of these that I made as a door prize for one of our chapter hammer-ins and recommended that I make one for the conference… so here it is. Probably won’t bring in as much funds as a few hardies, but is should stir up some conversation. Keep it fun, David
  19. George, 60degree between alternating sides. I was initially confused by this also. Works great for forge welding bundles also (cable damascus and ends of basket weaves). Keep it fun, David
  20. 60degree swages can be used to make hex bar/heads. In that application, the work never reaches the bottom of the swage, but you don’t want the scale to build up. The slots would allow the scale to fall through. (Just a guess…) Keep it fun, David
  21. George, I made these similar to what Brent Bailey uses making hammers, but I slit the end to be able to hole work on the corners also. Don’t know if that was a good idea yet though. Yes, also all the forging was done with a power hammer. Keep it fun, David
  22. Lot of beautiful work in the room Alexandr! I got a couple things done in the shop today. A set of tongs started a while ago: Make from forklift tine. Hopefully they will be useful under the power hammer. I also got my ball swage finished and made a test hex finial: Hex was probably not the best first test. I took forever…but, the ability to produce round and faceted shapes was why I went this direction in the first place. Keep it fun, David
  23. Just a thought, but you could try plumbers graphite packing. It probably won’t last long, but it may buy you some time to track down bushings. Anyone else have thoughts on that? Keep it fun, David
  24. This weekend, at our hammer-in, I worked on a power hammer ball swage. Unfortunately, I broke the handle off before I got the forging done. I’ll post it later after I’ve re-welded the handle and get it back in the forge (and under my power hammer). I also finished up a steak flipper: The IBA made at home competition this year is a steak flipper, this may be my submission if my other idea doesn’t come together in time. Keep it fun, David
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