Goods

Frosty, I need the mass for the end finial. I could have upset it, but I find it easier to draw out than upset. Here’s some closer pictures of the twist: 1/2” square, with the corners chamfered to 5/8” across, then chased the flats created on the corners. Nothing on this one is very clean, but a couple new techniques for me that need practicing… Keep it fun, David

Very impressive Alexandr! And a very hard act to follow… I got time in the shop today and started on the first of 3 stake flippers for gifts when I visit my family in a couple weeks. Started out as 3” of 1-1/16” round 304 stainless steel. Doesn’t meet the sketch I drew up, but pretty close. Keep it fun, David

Nice job John! Tonight, I got the cone mandrel finished: After the final forging, it tool very little clean up this time. The new tooling is making a difference… Keep it fun, David

I was surprised by any concerns over the position of the reservoir tank, so I brought it up with one who I would consider to be a hydraulics expert at work. He basically said the main reason for having the tank above the pump it to keep the pump primed for start up. No real system gains in n most cases. I then mentioned that over has the systems in our building have the tank below the pump and that I was confused by that. He responded that most if not all of those systems have a check valve to keep the hydraulic oil in the suction line. Basically, it all comes down to system design, but keeping the level of the tank above the pump entrance simplifies the system. Simple is good in my mind, less to go wrong. I like this guys, keep me learning! Keep it fun, David

I’ve been using forklift tine as source material for all types of tooling: hammers, sets, fullers power hammer saddles, hatchets, chisels, punches, drifts. The material in mine is tough as forged and holds an edge quenched and tempered. Test your material. Then cut pieces off in the size you need for the project at hand. Keep it fun, David

Don’t be offended by harsh criticism of unsafe practices! Nothing said was intended to belittle you, maybe make you think. Black/blade smiths have been maimed and killed just from slips in attention to safe practices! We don’t want that to happen to you or anyone else reading this post! Safety is taken very seriously here… Keep it fun (and safe), David

Saturday I started a small blacksmith knife after working with a new young man at our hammer in. Well, yesterday I got it finished: It was make from a cutoff of 52100 from another project. Saturday, I also won the door prize (a nice set of tongs), so I’m responsible for next month’s door prize. Thought about what to make for a while and settled on making a hardie cone. Tonight I got my angle block saddle die finished up and roughed out the cone: Block is forklift tine on a 1/4” mild saddle. (Don’t look too close at the welds, they’re pretty ugly.) Cone is rough forged out a from a 2” diameter tie rod from a hydraulic press. We had lots of problems with this press type breaking these rods and started making them out of 4340. (I’m pretty sure this one is 4340.) Hopefully, tomorrow I’ll get some more shop time to finish it up. Keep it fun, David

I wouldn’t write off dial-up as not being on the web. When I was in college a lot of my internet access was dial-up. Sound a bit early for true internet though… maybe a precursor. Keep it fun, David

Wise decision John. I believe your customer is going to be very happy! Today, I got a vise/hardy hole bending jig done for a donation at our state conference this coming weekend. Just add a 1/2” socket the diameter you need and clamp it in the vise or set it in your anvils hardy hole: Our chapter donates a tools box and tools to the silent auction. Previous years I’ve made several hardies of different types, but my time has been limited this year. One of the guys in our chapter like the one of these that I made as a door prize for one of our chapter hammer-ins and recommended that I make one for the conference… so here it is. Probably won’t bring in as much funds as a few hardies, but is should stir up some conversation. Keep it fun, David

George, 60degree between alternating sides. I was initially confused by this also. Works great for forge welding bundles also (cable damascus and ends of basket weaves). Keep it fun, David

60degree swages can be used to make hex bar/heads. In that application, the work never reaches the bottom of the swage, but you don’t want the scale to build up. The slots would allow the scale to fall through. (Just a guess…) Keep it fun, David

George, I made these similar to what Brent Bailey uses making hammers, but I slit the end to be able to hole work on the corners also. Don’t know if that was a good idea yet though. Yes, also all the forging was done with a power hammer. Keep it fun, David

Lot of beautiful work in the room Alexandr! I got a couple things done in the shop today. A set of tongs started a while ago: Make from forklift tine. Hopefully they will be useful under the power hammer. I also got my ball swage finished and made a test hex finial: Hex was probably not the best first test. I took forever…but, the ability to produce round and faceted shapes was why I went this direction in the first place. Keep it fun, David

Just a thought, but you could try plumbers graphite packing. It probably won’t last long, but it may buy you some time to track down bushings. Anyone else have thoughts on that? Keep it fun, David

This weekend, at our hammer-in, I worked on a power hammer ball swage. Unfortunately, I broke the handle off before I got the forging done. I’ll post it later after I’ve re-welded the handle and get it back in the forge (and under my power hammer). I also finished up a steak flipper: The IBA made at home competition this year is a steak flipper, this may be my submission if my other idea doesn’t come together in time. Keep it fun, David

Lovely as always Alexandr!

They are still sold from the larger blacksmith supply companies. I purchased one myself (from centaur forge?) for a small rivet forge. Many blacksmiths just fabricate their own. Just a 3/8~1/2” round bar grate and clay them in place. Keep it fun, David

The Wikipedia page has some similar sketches, but lacks a lot of details that are in the standard. The standard is as produced by an Automotive OEM and it like pulling teeth get get access to those I’d probably get into hot water just printing a copy for myself let alone posting it. There is JIS version available for purchase, but it’s a bit steep for me.

I wish I could print and scan the automotive technical standard I found for spark testing! According to the standard, you could get really close to exactly alloy (carbon, tungsten, molybdenum, chrome, vanadium, manganese… contents) based on number of sparks, spark branching style/amount, color and style/amount of “globules.” (Not sure if “globules” is the correct term…) Either way, the big key to spark testing is having known samples to compare to… Keep it fun, David

Was the cable welded in a canister with nickel/high nickel powder? If so I can understand what I’m seeing. (Which looks great!) Otherwise I’m not sure what’s going on, but I works. Keep it fun, David

Nice work Les. The blacksmith’s knife from one of your previous posts inspired me to try wet forming the sheath on the left. It came out ok, but I should’ve had at least another 1/2” of leather above the finger curl. Either way you got me to learn something new! Keep it fun, David

Got six sheaths done. Keep it fun, David

I stated out using a speedy stitcher, but I had a lot of problems with heavier leather and keeping the stitching pulled even. So, I switched to punching and even marking/drilling heavy three layer leather sheaths. Then, using a saddle stitch. Ended up looking better (not good yet!) and I’m pretty sure it’s stronger. (Just my thoughts and experiences…) Keep it fun, David

Good for you! You turning out all that work make me tired, I can’t imagine how you feel! Keep it fun, David

Thank you for posting this link. It was an interesting read. Keep it fun, David