Irondragon Forge ClayWorks

For a lot of tools, I like sucker rod (4130-4140) and the fact I have about 400 pounds of it. Being in Texas there should be a lot of it used running around. Just make sure not to pick up sour rod.

That is probably your problem. What you need is castable refractory, not cement. Cement is made to stick bricks together, not to be a flame face coating. Did you look here? https://www.iforgeiron.com/forum/91-smelting-melting-foundry-and-casting/

Blacksmith's have been known for our frugality.

Looks like you have pretty much got the hang of things. Looking at the drawn out spike steak flipper, you hammer control looks good, It took me a year to get that much control.

Welcome aboard Wazz... have you read the Read This First thread? It is full of useful tips on using the forum. Serial number 169201 was made in 1909 (160001-170000 range) If you have a steel ball bearing about 1/2 in in diameter, drop it from ten inches with a ruler for a gauge. Note how far the bearing rebounds and that will give a % of rebound. Anything over 70% is good for a Hay Budden. Like Thomas said pictures will be needed to try & ascertain condition.

Zeap hasn't logged in since March 29 2018, I doubt he will answer.

About the only assistance I can give is this. READ THIS FIRST

Welcome aboard... Have you read this yet? READ THIS FIRST It's full of tips on how to get the best out of the forum. Other than they were a knife maker in Sheffield England, what else do you want to know.

Ringing the anvil in the garden, to ask for all family members to test negative and stay safe.

Welcome aboard... I always suggest reading READ THIS FIRST to help you get the best out of the forum.

I did a search like this "hill anvil iforgeiron.com" without the quotes. Google returned 871 results. Some might help you. That way to search is listed in the Read This First thread. Pictures of the anvil will help if you have them.

That's a good looking forge that looks to be in excellent shape. Any name on the blower? Those cast iron pans are prone to crack without a layer of clay. It looks like a Canedy-Otto Royal (Western Chief) 100 to me.

Welcome to IFI... This thread will help you get the best out of the forum. READ THIS FIRST

Looks like a well worn ships maul to me.

Welcome aboard tot, have you read this yet? READ THIS FIRST Pictures of your anvil and where you are located will help. Are you sure i says Crooks. I have seen John Brooks anvils but never heard of one marked Crooks.

It doesn't with my single burner forge while it is running. Some burners are designed to run with secondary air. A reducing flame needs more air or less fuel. How about a picture of the inside of the forge.

If you are trying to make V-Bit bolt tongs, I suggest this from Black Bear Forge. I have never heard of it-but tongs. Have you seen it? Ken's Custom Tongs also has a video using their blanks.

In the picture with the fire it looks like way too much air for charcoal and the lumps of charcoal on the table are too large. I like the charcoal to be about the size of walnuts. How much air will your air gate shut off? BTW your forge is one to be proud of.

That is a good looking cork screw. The only suggestion I have is to bend the leaf down to be flush with the twist. To me the leaf sticking up might be a snag on clothing or in my case my wrist, when twisting the screw in.

Das I really like that, should be great when painted.

My wife always accuses me of over building. If 2 nails will hold it 4 will be better.

Yep, that's what it says. A good brand. What does the rest of the vise look like and how wide are the jaws? Also it would depend on the screw & screw box being in good shape.

You're welcome, after I looked at the picture, I had to reread the description twice.

I doubt that, seeing as Hay Budden's are not that rare and as a user, it would cost more to repair it right than a new anvil would cost. Even if it were in good shape it is impossible to give a value, not knowing where in the world you are located. READ THIS FIRST

I think the lug wrench is hung from a hook, not welded on.