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Found 23 results

  1. Hi everyone, i thought it best i start a thread in regards to getting the best advice and guidance to building my first propane forge. I was thinking of purchasing a propane forge but i realised with a bit of time and effort i could build a much better forge and actually save a few hundred bucks along the way. So the forge i want to build will be primarily used for medieval swords. but also other things like plant hangars, fire pits, steel gate's, etc. I have a terrible sword fetish, most will be simply wall hangars, some for a medieval display and one or two for some backyard cutting. I was going to build a square forge around 21"-25" long, 8"-9" wide...dimensions roughly based from a Majestic Forge..but after looking at the burner specs from a supplier they say the forge should be cylindrical in shape because there would be a deviation in function and performance? One question I would love to ask is..would i need a 3-burner forge for what i need...or would a 2-burner forge be sufficient? I attached a mocked up photo of some steel i picked up after recently getting myself an oxy torch and brazing tips, gauges, etc and thought ooh this would be great for the forge..but again after reading the specs for the burners they say the forge should be cylindrical in shape for optimum performance. That's fine and everything..but it would be great to hear what you guys think..if i need to build cylindrical that's easy also. I can easily weld, drill and tap, cut steel, etc that's why in the end i would much rather build my own forge...and well as you all know building is great fun and it's something i really ,enjoy. I suppose my 2 biggest questions are cylindrical or square..and 2 burners or 3? I was going to use an old beer keg i have which is 316 stainless steel, but it's too large and would need way too much insulation to fill it. I thought i could purchase 2x9kg gas bottles and weld them together to I have a feeling I've almost answered my own questions..cylindrical with 3 burners might be the best choice...but would love to hear everyone's thought's on this and would greatly appreciate any help thank you.
  2. Hello, blacksmiths!Thanks for taking time to look at my post. I was recently gifted a small propane forge. It was built by a friend who has passed away. As far as I know, he used it, in the condition it's in, regularly and successfully, for all kinds of small forging projects. I have been trying to troubleshoot what's going on with it. Here's what happens: When I turn on the propane (there is no PSI meter or guage, just an open/close valve) then turn on the gas for the forge and light it, flames at least a foot tall leap from the forge front and back-- and continue on like that (no matter how open the propane or the forge valve is) until I turn it off. I tried closing up with forge with firebrick, so there was a smaller opening, and it just blackened the entire inside of the forge as the flames tried to leap out. Photos of the set up:THE PROPANE: https://mail.google.com/mail/u/0/?ui...&sz=w1335-h472 THE FORGE: https://mail.google.com/mail/u/0/?ui...&sz=w1335-h472THE FLAMES: https://mail.google.com/mail/u/0/?ui...&sz=w1335-h472 -(even after running it a while, no hotter blues appear, and the black gunk builds up.)Does this mean that it's too oxidized? That the forge is too small? Or am I doing something silly? Thanks very much for any thoughts,Rocky
  3. Greetings, This will be my first attempt at building a propane forge, so any constructive advice or recommendations would be greatly appreciated. I'm currently collecting materials for the build and I came across this steel pipe. It's approximately 14" in diameter, and I'm planning to cut it 16" in length. My question is, if I plan to put 3" of insulation around the interior, would this still be too big for a 2-burner setup?
  4. Greetings, This will be my first attempt at building a propane forge, so any constructive advice or recommendations would be greatly appreciated. I'm currently collecting materials for the build and I came across this steel pipe. It's approximately 14" in diameter, and I'm planning to cut it 16" in length. My question is, if I plan to put 3" of insulation around the interior, would this still be too big for a 2-burner setup?
  5. Well, having always had a desire to learn metalworking (See my post in the intro section to get my story.), and being frustrated with the progress I was making, then throwing out all of my accumulated parts for my original plan, I stared over. I settled on this propane burner set up. Thanks to whomever credit belongs. I made one slight modification, though. I found trouble with getting the flame to hold her own with that 3/4 nipple on the end. So i deleted it. I will most likely grind out the threads on the flame end reducer to enhance the flame by reducing any turbulence. I got a 10 gallon air tank off a compressor that was flooded in hurricane Florence, from my local junk man. I used scrap pipe for the burner guides which I tapped and added 3/8" bolts to hold the burner(s) in place. Not knowing how much heat one burner would produce, I planned for a second burner. After I cut off the ends, I again used scrap 1/8" plate for the openings. I used some 2" square tubing scrap to make the hinges and some 1/4" flat bar for the latch. Luckily, I work at a boiler plant and we had some contractors doing some refractory work inside our fireboxes. I was able to get some left over Harbison Walker (Greencast I believe)refractory and 2" Inswool blanket. I used the refractory on the body and the Inswool on the doors to reduce weight when opened. While I havent had the chance to run her through the paces, I am fairly pleased with the results thus far. I have some light weight 15" fire brick that I plan on cutting a belly in and use to make the forge floor. Please let me know what you think. Your most wise and holy counsel is appreciated! Following are pictures along the way. hopefully they will load in some form of chronological order.
  6. I am currently working on building a new propane forge. I plan to use two inched of 2600 degree kaolwool, soft firebrick, and coating everything in ITC. The forge will be 12 inches long and use 1 frosty T burner. My plan is to build it an and 8 inch diameter pipe. That would leave me a 4 inch chamber which is plenty big for the knife work that I do, and I have a coal forge for oddly shaped work. My question is, are there any downsides to a small forge other than what you can fit in it? I don't want to use any more gas than I have to so my whole goal is efficiency. In other words, why would you make your forge chamber larger than the your steel? Thank you guys for your time and wisdom
  7. hello I'm building a forge with ceramic fiber blanket rated 2600F and coating it with a refractory paint rated 5000F. I am wondering if I should put 2 layers of blanket of if I can just put a third layer of coating thanks
  8. Hi so im a not so beginner who is looking to upgrade his forge. I had a small forge made out of soft firebricks and it is a bit too small and i would like higher heats with more efficiency. Do any of you have recommendations for how to go on with my next forge? Or if I can get better efficiency with a dual burner design?
  9. Need some help troubleshooting. The burner I made is basically a carbon copy of this one here. I used a .035” welding tip, and from the brass I connected a 10ft propane hose rated for home use I believe, and from there I have a hose to connect to my 5 gallon propane tank. Is this a pressure issue? Is my regulator not giving enough propane or is this an air intake issue? It sputters and doesn’t roar like the others I’ve seen. IMG_0604.MOV IMG_0605.MOV
  10. Hello everyone, Though I still consider myself a novice when it concerns blacksmithing and bladesmithing, I have dabbled quite a bit in the craft. I have built and used two forges and forge burners in the past two years. Each getting increasingly more ambitious as my intrigue increased. However, this year I decided to take the plunge and purchase a professionally built, double burner propane forge. I really like the design of the forge, but it is the burners that are causing me an issue. I have meticulously tested my set up and retried my forge with one of my older burners. It worked decently, but the double burner failed to burn outside the pipe or produce a torrential flame. It is currently burning inside of the pipe and heating it up. I asked the seller for help and he sent me a new one. However, the new burner failed just like the previous one. Is their something that I'm missing or doing wrong? In my search, I have discovered that the propane outlets, holes drilled in to the pipe, were either off center or had a slight tilt. Could this be causing the issue? Using an air compressor, I didn't feel any obstructions to the air flow. Is their a way to fix this issue? If so please help.
  11. Hi all, New to the forums and to smithing. I see a lot of good info here, so I wanted to ask the question. To build or to buy? I've seen a lot of forges online priced $350 and up, that's a big pill for a newbie like me, so I was wondering if it'd be cheaper/smarter to build. I need everything for anvils to hammers and would like to be as economical as possible. So i did some googling, found this site, bummed around Amazon and eBay, and I noticed that buying the materials plus shipping as about the same if not more than buying a pre-made forge. Now, all I looked for was sheet metal, Fire brick (3k degree), KaoWool, and rigidizer. No itc-100, and I figure I can make some Sodium Silicate Glue. The big questions I have are: Can the Perlite-n-Playsand DIY bricks hold up to the heat as well as the Factory made? Is there a DIY KaoWool equivalent? Is the ITC necessary on the forge walls/Ceiling? I have a supply/warehouse within 15 miles of home so sheet metal and Stock shouldn't be an issue. I have drafted a forge design from some pics I have seen around, I also have several tanks around the house (Propane, air tanks, Grills) that I could chop up If my design isn't feasible, seeing as I built it around what I found on eBay for what looked like cheaper than average prices.The bricks I found are keyed so one would need cut in half to square the ends for the forge floor. The inner cavity of my design seems to come out to: 9.5"W x 3"H x 17"L Pics ahoy and thanks for the help in advance! Cut Key Brick Layout.bmp
  12. Hi everyone just wanted to get some feedback and advice on my vertical forge build. Also I'm worried I may have screwed up the angle of my burner tube , concerned I might not have proper angle for a nice "swirl" in the chamber. I'll post some pics of that later, but not sure how much effect that will have on the performance as aside from the hot spot.
  13. Hi fellas I'm building a propane forge for the upcoming winter time and was wondering if this would work fine. I plan to wrap the outter most lining as kaowool and coat it with slight bit of satanite so I get minimum amount of airborne ceramic fiber hopefully and between that and the actual chamber a layer of ceramic fiber board. For the floor a piece of firebrick. Would this be fine? I can't find any ITC 100 here in NZ nor any other stuff like that... I have got someone willing to sell me kaowool rigidizer but I don't know if that's better or ceramic fiber board is better. Thank you in advance fellas.
  14. Hi Everyone, Looking to buy my first gas forge. Making my own forge is just not something I want to take on at this time. I am planning on making knives. I was initially looking pretty hard at the Diamondback Ironworks Single Burner Knifemakers forge. I then came across Gizmo's Fabrications St. Helen's Inferno Forge. This particular forge has some options to choose from. One of which is burner placement. You can have it vertically or horizontally. In doing some research on this site, I found discussions on burners mounted vertically or on an angle (both of which still has the flame hitting the floor of the forge). What are the benefits (or non-benefits) of having a horizontally mounted burner? Also, does anyone have any experience with Gizmo's Fabrications Forges? I have read some people's opinions on Diamondback Ironworks forges on this site, but I was unable to find anything about Gizmo's forges on here. Thanks!
  15. Hello everyone, We are building a large propane forge (Yes it must be this big, for our projects), and have a 4 pipe setup. Tested individually we orginally had successful burners individually BEFORE we attached them to the forge. After assembling, none of the spouts give more than a thick soft flame, no jets. Even individually they behave the same, thus according to what we can observe. I'm going to upload some pics and I'm hoping somebody with experience can notice something obvious.
  16. This weekend my local blacksmithing group held a forge welding workshop for 2 days. The projects consisted of flux spoons, fire pokers, chain links, heart hooks and cable damascus. I have attached the images of my heart hook, "flux spoons" and cable attempts. The heart hook isnt perfect but im really happy with how the weld came out. The cable was interesting because we did not do the method i usually see. Most of the time i see people weld up the ends of the cable to prevent splitting then they heat the cable and twist it together tighter before welding it flat using the anvil. The way we were taught was to use the u shapped depressions in a swage block and hammer into the swage depression while rotating the bar. It seemed to work pretty well and i am excited to work the piece out now to see what i really have.
  17. Hello all, just about got all my stuff ready to build my first propane forge - my 0-40 psi regulator and hose came in today. have not been able to find a 0-40 gauge anywhere - does anyone know if I can use a 0-60 gauge? i would think so but I just don't like to guess with fuel gas. Here is a good reason for testing your lines each time. I was teaching a casting class this weekend, and when going over who to light the blast furnace, (and testing each fitting with soapy water) we heard gas when we should not have. someone ran over the lighting line (flexible line) and put a pinhole in it. had we not checked it could have been bad. It really showed the students how checking is no joke.
  18. Over the time I have been visiting this forge I have seen a lot of people come through and ask about all sorts of designs of forges. Most of the people posting such threads are actually new to using a gas forge and often new to smithing. I have advised many of these newer smiths to first build a brick pile forge, use that a while and then go to something more serious once you figure out how big you will need. So now I wanted to make a definitive post as a guide for these people. The forge will have an internal size of 9" x 4.5" x 6.5", or 263 cubic inches. It is, however, easily reconfigured to be smaller, shorter, wider or whatever you need for your particular tasks in the shop. That is the beauty of a brick pile forge, it can be reconfigured at will and allows the smith to see what size they need in the end. This forge is not the end all-be-all of smithing forges. It is a starter forge and as you work with it, you will learn a ton about how forges work and will grow into more efficient systems. The brick pile forge is so versatile that occasionally I will toss one together just to do some specific task that doesn't work well in my main forge. Forge Materials: About 10 to 15 Soft insulating bricks, rated 2300 degrees farenheit. 3 Hard firebricks. Metal Table Burner Materials:1" to ¾" Black Iron T fitting (1" across the top and 3/4" on the leg of the T) ¾" to to 1" Black Iron reducer ¾" x 6" Black Iron Pipe Nipple High Pressure Propane Regulator Propane Pressure Gage ¼" Propane Rated hose with Fuel Threaded ends (available at welding supply stores) ¼" Propane Rated Flashback Supressor (available at welding supply stores) ¼" Fuel to normal pipe thread converter (available at welding supply stores) ¼" Ball Valve ¼" Brass Pipe Nipple (4") ¼" Brass pipe Nippel (smallest) ¼" Brass Pipe Straight Connector ¼" Brass Pipe to 1/8" Copper Compression Fitting (2) ⅛" Brass Pipe Compression nuts 24" flexible copper pipe ⅛" Compression to normal pipe Nipple .025 MIG Tip Propane rated thread sealant. Tools (Basic):Copper Compression Hose Flare Fitting Tap for your MIG tip thread (varies by the tip brand) Tap for ⅛" pipe thread Couple of Crescent Wrenches Drill 2" Hole Saw Hacksaw Reducer for ¾" to drill bit size for the tap. Plumber's torch with click starter Tools (Best): Drill Press rather than drill Dremmel with Cut-off wheel Propane Supply Assembly First tap the 1/8" compression to normal pipe nipple with the tap for your MIG tip. The right tap to use depends on the tip brand that you are using. If you ask a welding supply store they can supply you (or at lest tell you) the right size. Then cut about ⅛" off of your MIG tip and put propane sealant on the threads and screw it into the tapped fitting securely. Next attach the copper flexible hose to the compression fitting by putting on the compression nut and then flaring the tubing and finally screwing the compression nut on the fitting you tapped. The goal of the flexible copper tip is to get a good nice gas tight seal without constraining yourself with rigid pipe. Next put the compression nut on the other side of the tubing and flare that. Take the ¼" pipe to compression fitting and attach the other end of the flexible copper tubing to this fitting. Then attach the converter fitting to a small pipe nipple then to the straight connector and then to the longer pipe nipple. The extra parts make this assembly easy to use on other burners and other projects in the future. Finally attach the 4" brass pipe nipple to the ball valve, then attach the ball valve to the fuel to pipe thread converter. use propane sealant on all threaded connections. Fuel hoses are backward threaded. You learn "Righty tighty, lefty loosey" to understand normal threads. Fuel threads are the reverse of that and this is a safety feature that you don't want to violate. The converter changes the normal pipe thread into fuel threading. This should be screwed right into a propane rated flashback suppressor. This device will keep a flashback from reaching your bottle if something should go badly wrong. You can potentially skip this device but when it comes to exploding propane bottles, I prefer to play it safe. Attach the flashback suppressor to your propane fuel hose and then the other end of the fuel hose to the regulator. Screw the pressure gage on the regulator and you have the jet assembly done. Again remember to use propane sealant on all threads, if you didn't, go back and take it apart and do it right. Burner The burner is a standard "Frosty" T burner so named after the forum user Frosty who created it and has a propensity for wrestling large trees. To tap the back of the T, get a reducer that will screw into the ¾" side part and reduce it to just barely the size of the drill bit you will use for the pipe thread tap. If it is smaller, that is fine, if larger that isn't optimal. This reducer will serve as a guide to the drill to position the jet exactly in the middle of the T leg. Drill out the burner and then tap it for the ⅛" pipe that the MIG tip is attached to. Next attach the black iron pipe nipple and the ¾" to 1" reducer to act as a flare. If you don't know how to drill and tap, then you should probably research that and practice before embarking on this project. Now screw the burner jet into the burner and then test the burner. Testing the Burner Check for leaks using dishwashing fluid mixed with water or, even better, child's bubble solution. If you see bubbles that is a leak. Twist it tighter, make sure you have a good amount of propane sealant and so on. Light the burner with a plumber's torch (this is the safest way to light your forge). Another great trick for checking leaks is a cheap medicine syringe used for children. Fill it with bubble fluid and squirt on your junctions. Note that while I am testing my son is sitting there with his hand on the bottle valve and watching what is going on. His job is simple, if something goes bad, he cuts the propane at the bottle. Forge When we say brick pile, we aren't kidding, its literally a pile of bricks on the table. Use a metal table and you can fabricate one if need be. Mine is fabricated to hold forges. Start with three bricks in the center of the table configured as shown Add a hard firebrick in the middle. This will heat up in the forge and serve to regulate the forge temperature. Make sure the brick is at least the width of one brick from front, back and sides. Next add vertical bricks to the side of the hard brick. Now we test out the roof bricks. We want to make sure that we have the right width. Now we add some hard bricks to the side to support the vertical bricks from falling. We also set up a couple of bricks to serve as the back door. Now we have to drill out one brick for the flare. These bricks are very soft so be careful or you will shatter them. We use a hole saw to drill the brick. Put plywood under the brick to support it and make sure you can drill all the way through without hitting the table. When you drill, go very slow and steady. Don't press hard or the brick will shatter. Now we place the flare brick on top of the pile, stick the flare through and clamp up a support for the burner. The bricks won't be strong enough to support it. Now we seal up the roof using a brick on edge to serve to give a roof over our front door bricks. Finally turn on the burner to about 5psi and open the ball valve while the plumber's torch is in the forge and enjoy the glow. Enhancements: The bricks can be coated with ITC-100 wherever they are exposed to heat. This will make the forge hold a lot more heat. You can also make a quick form the size of a brick and pour half an inch of castable over the brick (like Kastolyte 30) and then coat that with ITC-100. Make sure the first time you fire the castable you go slow. This will allow a much hotter face. You can put in blown burners, change the configuration and a dozen other enhancements. Comments and questions are welcome.
  19. Mike Romo

    forge running with rebar

    Propane forge running. Firebrick used as door.

    © Mike Romo, 2013

  20. Mike Romo

    Mike Romo Propane Forge

    Homemade propane forge constructed from condemned oxygen cylinder. Length is approx 11". Lined with one inch layers of kaowool x 2. Rebar legs and carry handle.

    © Mike Romo, 2013

  21. Recently I came across a little "portable gas forge" on Ebay for $200 and I may add that its the best working little forge. however I recently had a bit of an issue, I wasnt paying attention to my temperature and managed to melt through the ceramic blanket insulation, the firebrick shelf, and the bricks I put on the back of it, as well as several pieces I was attempting to work on. so my question is this, where is it possible to get insulation over 3000 degrees, why do people think its impossible to forge weld with gas, and how do people figure a gas forge will "Make the iron wither away instead of totally melt like a coal forge would do". It took no longer than 2 minutes to end up with a puddle of knife (keeping in mind I was using old lawn mower blades, forge welding them into solid billets and drawing them out) Can someone at least suggest how to better control the little monster? Its maximum PSI capacity is 30, I was operating under that and burnt the forge up (burner is still good!) I have a few pictures below to justify what I just said, the picture of the forge was AFTER I pulled the burnt insulation out just to show how little the thing is, the melted knife, and the insulation, brick, and shelf, as well as a picture of it lit that I took in bright light, with my cellphone
  22. I'm looking to buy a propane forge to get around the burn-ban fire restrictions. Whats a good brand? I like the Diamondback Ironworks forge, its also reasonably priced. I'll being doing knife and spur making as well as any other odd thing I want to forge on. So, what'd be a good brand, and at a reasonable cost?
  23. Finished work on my new top-loading forge, and fired it up for the first time. I try to describe the construction details in the video-
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